DMO2 Conversation, Programing

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
This is part of an actual conversation of the DMO2 motor: Oh, it kills
Specialized and all off the shelf bikes.

I have contacted my ToSeven representative in China and will be ordering a motor with a non-default display that is smaller, the T-154 we discussed. I will find out more about tariffs and timing in a day or two. I would like to have one motor on reserve, if not for you, then another bike. I am going deep into the programing, such a milliseconds of torque sensor response overrun, so it is peppy but not too jerky. If you get this bike motor, I will do my idea of optimal programing, but you can then adjust to your own values, but please only test one change out of hundreds at a time and keep a log of the initial values and what you have changed. On most bikes the top bar on the display has about 20% more miles than the last battery charge bar. You can choose to level that out so each bar has the same miles, although that will take experimentation and several adjustments. Everything on this motor is user programable! It is your bike like having your dog. You control it. The bike is yours. Stefan et. all are stuck with the Higher Achiral Progame. This bike has a theroetical speed limit of 60 Kph. I just enabled cruise control, pedal up to speed, press a button, and the bike will go down the San Gabrial River trail to Huntington Beach or across to the Huntington Library Japanese Garden without pedaling while unwrapping your street tocos, eating an ice cream, removing and packing a layer, taking a call, or applying sunscreen. You don’t ever have to use this or other features, but it is all there on tap anytime. The bike will be exponentially more tailored to you than any off-the-rack high-end bike at $6500 plus. A Brooks suit is fine off the rack, but this will be like going to Milan and having one cut just for you.
 
Jeeeezzz..... Not trying to burst your bubble but how is it possible that every bike / motor you touch instantly becomes the best thing since sliced bread?
You have similar posts about the TSD motors that in my opinion had to be totally hacked up and not the most reliable.
Why not use something for +6 months and fully understand all before the fanfare?

ps... a UART Bafang is totally customizable, programable AND very reliable.
No cruise control but I can't remember the last time I was riding and wished I could eat a taco or apply sunscreen. . .
 
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I have been using these for nine-months and am finally understanding the programing. I work for a shop that sells and services a bunch of brands, including Specialized. My boss rode a DM02 today for the first time, saying it was the nicest bike he has ever ridden. I can take a jab and laugh. Sunscreen and tacos, that is funny.
 
On my to-do list is a DM02 install shipped last October. MIne still has an unlocked display. In November, Toseven locked down those options you're exploring. Your research might not help everyone, but I'll pay attention.
 
As harryS mentioned, many of the features you say you will be exploring/explaining might not be available in the latest firmware.

That being said, perhaps your efforts would be better appreciated if you added to the DM01/DM02 wiki
https://docs.google.com/document/d/11lubTj1K4Hb1AwoRtEFjbM1etyRGJidN/edit#heading=h.1egqt2p

Or better yet, join the high voltage electric vehicle channel as the users there are more up to speed, know and care more than most on this forum.

I have an 52V unlocked DM01 and display while it will certainly 'smoke vados', there are alot of things that are just not right. I am using mostly stock settings with the exception of limiting speed based on assist level

Things I think need to improve:
1.) Torque response - non existent when starting out, onset is too off/on, overall seems too boosted and not much dynamic range. Better than a BBSHD...barely
2.) Latest SW versions limit speed to 32/40kmh throttle/PAS respectively which is locked out from being changed (as well as most everything else), no way to go to previous versions.
3.) Motor Lockout issue during higher power usage. Basically the torque sensor offset (no load) voltage rises as a function of the motor getting hot. When the total value (offset + user input)gets above a set value (somewhere in the mid 3 volt range), the motor completely cuts out. Newer version fix this but see#2. No issues on my DM01 if I limit current to 21A (1k watts). Not the BBSHD killer I was hoping for but I still like it and would recommend it if they get rid of #2 issues.

While more powerful, torque response is not even in the same league as any Brose/Specialized bike I have owned (3 so far, 1 currently).

Efficiency also seems REALLY BAD on the DM01. Im still collecting data but almost identical rides on a DM01 vs BBSHD show the DM01 lacking by 4-5wh/mile which is HUGE. Typical BBSHD rides are 17-19wh/mile on the low end (25 miles, 1500ft vertical, 17mph average speed) and up to 24wh/mile on the high end (19mph average....scooter mode). I have yet to see a DM01 ride less than 21wh/mile and my last ride was 24wh/mile at 17mph average. CYC photon never got higher that 17wh/mile for an average speed of 17mph.

I really want to like the DM01, perhaps your magic settings are the cure

A DM01 with Open Source like the TSDZ2 (which I had/modified) could be the ultimate "Vado killer'
 
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,.. MIne still has an unlocked display. In November, Toseven locked down those options you're exploring.

As harryS mentioned, many of the features you say you will be exploring/explaining might not be available in the latest firmware.

ps... a UART Bafang is totally customizable, programable AND very reliable.


I have what I think is a UART Bafang programmable Controller/Display and rear hub motor?

I tried to turn down my maximum current and it doesn't work.
I set it to 1 amp and the current meter would still read up to 21 amps.

I have a Voltbike with what I guess is a proprietary display, but it looks exactly like the Bafang P860C display.

I was wondering if I could enable the maximum current adjustment with some sort of software update and a programming cord. (my display has a USB port, but I don't know if it's a two-way communication port?)

I found a Bafang programmable display with the male 5-pin connector, and was wondering if it could reduce my maximum current, or if it may not work with my controller?

Does anyone have any advice or information that could help me?

All the battery information on the display is blank, but I figure that's because I don't have a data wire going to my battery?

I do all the "programming" with the display itself, but I don't know if I need to program the programming to allow me to turn down the power?

A DM01 with Open Source like the TSDZ2 (which I had/modified) could be the ultimate "Vado killer'

Unlike everyone else that wants to "smoke a Vado" and go Really Really FAST, (😂) ,.. I just want to micro-dose my current flow to go easy on my e-bike and all it's components.

I don't need 21 amps to go 20 MPH, unless I'm pushing into a headwind.
I want to turn down the power so it's not pulling 21 amps continuously if the headwind demands everything from my controller.
 

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As harryS mentioned, many of the features you say you will be exploring/explaining might not be available in the latest firmware.

That being said, perhaps your efforts would be better appreciated if you added to the DM01/DM02 wiki
https://docs.google.com/document/d/11lubTj1K4Hb1AwoRtEFjbM1etyRGJidN/edit#heading=h.1egqt2p

Or better yet, join the high voltage electric vehicle channel as the users there are more up to speed, know and care more than most on this forum.

I have an 52V unlocked DM01 and display while it will certainly 'smoke vados', there are alot of things that are just not right. I am using mostly stock settings with the exception of limiting speed based on assist level

Things I think need to improve:
1.) Torque response - non existent when starting out, onset is too off/on, overall seems too boosted and not much dynamic range. Better than a BBSHD...barely
2.) Latest SW versions limit speed to 32/40kmh throttle/PAS respectively which is locked out from being changed (as well as most everything else), no way to go to previous versions.
3.) Motor Lockout issue during higher power usage. Basically the torque sensor offset (no load) voltage rises as a function of the motor getting hot. When the total value (offset + user input)gets above a set value (somewhere in the mid 3 volt range), the motor completely cuts out. Newer version fix this but see#2. No issues on my DM01 if I limit current to 21A (1k watts). Not the BBSHD killer I was hoping for but I still like it and would recommend it if they get rid of #2 issues.

While more powerful, torque response is not even in the same league as any Brose/Specialized bike I have owned (3 so far, 1 currently).

Efficiency also seems REALLY BAD on the DM01. Im still collecting data but almost identical rides on a DM01 vs BBSHD show the DM01 lacking by 4-5wh/mile which is HUGE. Typical BBSHD rides are 17-19wh/mile on the low end (25 miles, 1500ft vertical, 17mph average speed) and up to 24wh/mile on the high end (19mph average....scooter mode). I have yet to see a DM01 ride less than 21wh/mile and my last ride was 24wh/mile at 17mph average. CYC photon never got higher that 17wh/mile for an average speed of 17mph.

I really want to like the DM01, perhaps your magic settings are the cure

A DM01 with Open Source like the TSDZ2 (which I had/modified) could be the ultimate "Vado killer'
Exactly what I've been reading and why you still need to slice your own bread, burn that vado.. and relax.
 
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I have what I think is a UART Bafang programmable Controller/Display and rear hub motor?

I tried to turn down my maximum current and it doesn't work.
I set it to 1 amp and the current meter would still read up to 21 amps.

I have a Voltbike with what I guess is a proprietary display, but it looks exactly like the Bafang P860C display.

I was wondering if I could enable the maximum current adjustment with some sort of software update and a programming cord. (my display has a USB port, but I don't know if it's a two-way communication port?)

I found a Bafang programmable display with the male 5-pin connector, and was wondering if it could reduce my maximum current, or if it may not work with my controller?

Does anyone have any advice or information that could help me?

All the battery information on the display is blank, but I figure that's because I don't have a data wire going to my battery?

I do all the "programming" with the display itself, but I don't know if I need to program the programming to allow me to turn down the power?



Unlike everyone else that wants to "smoke a Vado" and go Really Really FAST, (😂) ,.. I just want to micro-dose my current flow to go easy on my e-bike and all it's components.

I don't need 21 amps to go 20 MPH, unless I'm pushing into a headwind.
I want to turn down the power so it's not pulling 21 amps continuously if the headwind demands everything from my controller.
As far as I know the UART Bafang mid drives are programmable... Don't think the hub controllers are... but not really following the hub scene.
On the mid drive the current settings are done thru controller programming not at the display.
The 860 display isn't manufactured by Bafang but by 3rd party APT
The display USB port is power out only, no communication.
Programming of the the display is done through the 5 Pin connector for such things like the brand logo.
Display Battery info requires a Bafang battery with a communication capable BMS... No third party batteries.
You might want to look into what Grin has to offer. Again not where my interests are so I'm not certain but I believe their phase runner might be capable of what you want to do..
Personally this is why I haven't given hubs much attention.
 
It looks like my DM01 died today which was going to be my final ride doing my efficiency comparison with BBSHD.

I was cruising comfortably in City Mode (21A max) in assist 3 of 5 consuming about 400 watts when all power was lost. There is a little yellow triangle that show up but no other info that can be seen while riding. It acts like a shorted mosfet in that its pretty much impossible to move the bike in reverse.

5 miles back with no power bucking a 15-20mph headwind...ugggghhhh

More info later today in my DIY thread.
 
As harryS mentioned, many of the features you say you will be exploring/explaining might not be available in the latest firmware.
Since I work full-time plus at the downtown eBike shop I have not had time to feed my conversion hobby and have only done five since last May with my first DM02. I am doing two more soon and will order those motors tomorrow morning. I will see if the interface has changed. I happen to like the T-154 display and cannot speak to others. Here is how to get into the menus: At start-up press and hold Power and Up for five seconds. Enter 1,2,3,4. This gives the basic level menu for things such as Imperial/Metric and rim size. There are about a dozen basic topics. Then press Up and Down for five seconds. This gives the Engineering menu where the possibilities are endless, like milliseconds of torque sensing kick-in and over-run. Were you can smooth it out, make it perky, or even jumpy. And things such as the amps per level, speed limits, heat sensor temp and power.... This motor by default would go down to one and none bars on the display when the battery was at 50% and it would shut down and take a crap at mile 35. I was able to go in and pair them so two bars on the battery = two on the display. On a front loader trike that carries four kids I programed accordingly by toning down in speed, still with power, and smoothing it out.

If anyone wants to see the programing options of this display download the file. https://to7motor.com/product/t154-e-bike-centre-control-panel
1742522983999.png
 
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I really do like the T154 display from what I have seen. My setup has the T24 and I like it alot as well (just big enough to read, no bigger). That being said, I think the T154 would be a better fit.

Let us know how the new motors work out for you as far as 'advanced' programming.

I really want to like my DM01, it wasnt the BBSHD killer I was hoping for but I could replace my CYC photon with it. While The Photon has superior torque sensor response, the DM01 was 'good enough' with a higher overall power ability.

Such is the life of a 'beta tester'
 
Over 100Nm eats drivetrains on bike parts I want to be ahead of the curve.
 
Over 100Nm eats drivetrains on bike parts I want to be ahead of the curve.
Not necessarily true if you program it with a natural progressing acceleration curve. It's the slamming that does most of the damage.
Such is the life of a 'beta tester'

And why I feel it best to curb some enthusiasm.
Sorry @PedalUma... but at times you're too fast to get so wet.
What a manufacture puts in writing isn't always what the end user ends up with, especially with a new product.
That said... Go for it. It might take another year or so to work out the bugs and quality control issues but the To7's look promising 👍
Reliability being the benchmark.
 
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