BEAUTIFUL!!! Is the 7th photo with partial blue paint a frame you fabricated? I recall seeing this bike previously in another thread and thought it to be the most amazing e-bike that can carry a lot of weight for a long distance self supported tour. Never saw anything like it previously. I love your fat tire bikes as there is no limit to the riding terrain. What I have in mind is closer to the bikes in your 3rd & 4th photos. Dual suspension with a wheelset to allow for tire choices with low rolling resistance for pavement. The yellow bike in your last photo appears to be a hardtail but not sure from the small size in the image.
When you have time available can you share any additional photos close up of the motor systems you have on some your bikes and provide a brief explanation of how you secured the motor to the frame including any techniques you developed to solve potential installation issues of a component not fitting or in need of reinforcement. Best way I can learn and get started is to see what others have successfully accomplished with detailed photos.
The blue bike is a Surly Big Fat Dummy in what they call 'bliolet'. What you see there actually started out as a complete bike and I ended up completely stripping it down and replacing everything but the headset and the rear derailleur, plus adding on bits I did fabricate like the wideloaders, which are used to carry enormous loads (560 lbs total system weight is my max and lemme tell ya... you don't want to go there; its too much for the frame and for a safe ride. I did it by accident).
As for details on it, look back to Post #5 in this thread. I gave you a link to my site and I have done build writeups on most of these bikes, where I felt it was warranted. You will find I have described the BBSHD motor mounting in some level of detail. There are two ways I do it. One is two inner lock rings torqued to 100 ft lbs each. I am certain I've documented that. Nothing more is needed and it never shifts. Earlier, I also used a dual hose clamp setup, with its use disguised via black shrinkwrap over the motor's clamp and a color coordinated shrinkwrap over the one on the down tube. The last three BBSHD'd bikes I have built do not use the hose clamp thing because the dual lock rings have proven to be sufficient.
Click any image to embiggen.
You may need to oversize your motor and use spacers to take up any slack. Here are two examples.
Look down at this motor on the drive side. See how there is a fat spacer behind the secondary gear housing? McMaster-Carr will sell you a custom made metric bushing to your specs for about $40. I reduced the inner diameter about a half millimeter from a standard bottom bracket spacer, and added to the outside diameter by a couple more millimeters to make for a rock solid purchase with no wiggling. Length was tailored to let the 120mm-axle'd motor perfectly clear the 5" chainstays. This was required to fit the motor onto that fat frame even though the bottom bracket was 'only' 100mm. The second pic beside it shows a test-fit on my ti bike using standard bottom bracket spacers and washers I needed some on both sides, and note on the non drive side the spacer goes OUTSIDE trhe clamping plate. I ended up doing the same kind of custom bushing for a drive side spacer and found a 10mm steel spacer on AliExpress for the non drive side.
A Cyc X1 is pretty similar to a Cyclone, which is kind of the grandpa of the Cyc. The Cyc needs no reinforcement, and if you look at the pic below you can see I used two industrial strength zip ties to snug it to the frame. The Cyc factory supplied a cloth strap at the time which was ridiculous. Nowadays they provide a metal strip of some sort.
For a Cyclone, its a similar issue except the motor mount is in fact insufficiently strong and it flexes. You need to cross-brace the hell out of it or fabricate a replacement. I used an arrangement of extra-long bolts in between the two arms, under the frame, set up as standoffs to stop it from flexing under throttle. This is a common problem with that motor and myriad solutions are on display over at Endless Sphere. The Cyclone uses the hose-clamp+giant zip tie method to clamp to the down tube. I did a full tutorial on Cyclone installation over at electricbike.com although when I wrote that I hadn't sussed out the need for the reinforcement. If you go the Cyclone route, do a full size one. A good place to go for them and their various bits is Sick Bike Parts as well as Luna. BUT: a Cyclone should not be your first build. I think my tutorial still is the only one out there and in addition to the community seemingly wanting to keep how you set one up a secret, the motors are powerful but unrefined.
I'll go step by step. I am just going to detail a basic first time installation with a throttle. When I get things a little further, tidy up the wiring and get a
electricbike.com
IK have only a few photos of my poor Stumpjumper, which I resurrected a corner of my garage. During its shakedown cruises an inattentive motorist t-boned me while I was in the bike lane. 15 mph and 3 separate headlights: A SMIDSY accident. Bike was destroyed and after the other driver's insurance company paid me for the bike I donated the motor to someone in need.
The yellow bike: 'Frankenbike' was made from a fresh frame which I stripped, primed and painted MFP Yellow (google that), with all of the remaining parts except the handlebars being take-offs from other bikes that I had upgraded over the previous years. It is the same alloy fat frame as the purple bike. I bought both frames from Kyle Chittock @ Bolton ebikes. They were discounted as his frame supplier had misspelled his company name on the bikes so he couldn't use them on what he was building in-house at the time. Rear hub is a leftover Sondors-originated 350w Bafang G060 geared hub. 48v bottle battery and 25a controller.
. Most of these I still have and ride. I have seven atm and am looking to sell the white one and just finished prepping the top left cargo bike for sale. Just need to do a photo shoot and put it up on Facebook Marketplace.
