Disassembly of the Aventon Aventure motor

[Alec Crock]

Hi everyone, I'm not new to repairing e-bike motors, but now I'm faced with an unusual Aventon Aventure motor design. I'm not really sure how to properly disassemble this motor to replace the Hall sensor. As you can see in the photo, there is a nut in the end of the motor axis, which, it seems to me, needs to be unscrewed. I've tried to do this with a regular wrench, but I haven't been successful. Perhaps a special tool is needed here. Is there anyone who has experience disassembling such motors? I would appreciate some advice in this situation. Thanks!

 

[Marcela]

left or right hand thread?

 

[Alec Crock]

left or right hand thread?

right

 

[Marcela]

Maybe there is a tool to hold the outer hub and the collar and axle unscrew as a unit?

 

[PCeBiker]

That sure looks like a spacer/collar that threads onto the axle?

I've got something very similar on my old-school axle,..

Try unthreading with an open ended wrench on the axle flats and another wrench on the threaded spacer/nut.

It looks like you have clearance to reach in there to grab the flats of the collar/spacer ?
An adjustable pliers might be enough to grab the flats of the collar?


That nut is probably used to adjust the preload on the bearing so you'll want to reassemble your motor with that in mind.

My axle has a locking nut to keep the collar/spacer/bearing race from moving after the preload is set.

 

[PCeBiker]

,..there is a nut in the end of the motor axis, which, it seems to me, needs to be unscrewed. I've tried to do this with a regular wrench, but I haven't been successful.

It's probably a little seized or the axle threads are dirty or slightly damaged?

The collar/nut probably gets pinched in dropout when you tighten the axle nuts, and that can cause the threads to bind up a bit.


EDIT: Your nut probably presses against the inner race of a sealed bearing on the other end of the nut, and the inner race would be supported along the entire axle, so the nut can lock onto the inner bearing race without binding the bearing.

My axle if for loose ball bearings, so if it's over tightened, it will bind the bearings.


If it were me, I'd reach in there with a vise-grips if I had to. It shouldn't matter if you damage the outer surface of the nut, as long as the face stays undamaged.

An old-school pedal wrench might fit that nut?

I bet that nut is 15mm?
It's kind of a standard, and they probably used 15mm so a pedal wrench will fit?

That nut might be seized up pretty good?

 

[Alec Crock]

It's probably a little seized or the axle threads are dirty or slightly damaged?

The collar/nut probably gets pinched in dropout when you tighten the axle nuts, and that can cause the threads to bind up a bit.


EDIT: Your nut probably presses against the inner race of a sealed bearing on the other end of the nut, and the inner race would be supported along the entire axle, so the nut can lock onto the inner bearing race without binding the bearing.

My axle if for loose ball bearings, so if it's over tightened, it will bind the bearings.


If it were me, I'd reach in there with a vise-grips if I had to. It shouldn't matter if you damage the outer surface of the nut, as long as the face stays undamaged.

An old-school pedal wrench might fit that nut?


View attachment 188142View attachment 188143


I bet that nut is 15mm?
It's kind of a standard, and they probably used 15mm so a pedal wrench will fit?

That nut might be seized up pretty good?

Hello, thanks for the tips, your photo with a similar nut sheds light on this situation. Tomorrow I will try to make another attempt to unscrew it and I will tell you what happened. P.S. nut on 17

 

[Marcela]

His setup is on a splined hub which holds the gears. If for some reason there is a locknut inside the hub holding the collar on then it is not going to budge. That would mean something on the other side must come off to slide the axle out.

 

[PCeBiker]

I found these pictures of splined hubs and they all had screws holding the collar on,..

Check to see if this is a plastic ring that's covering up some bolt heads?

It looks like a solid one piece hub?

 

[Marcela]

Time to get out the BFH.

 

[teskow]

Jeez, don't force it get a bigger hammer.

 

[harryS]

It's too bad they don't make a cone nut socket that would fit over the two parallel end, but they can't be under too much torque. Some type of vise grips with a pointed tip might fit in there.
.

 

[PCeBiker]

It's too bad they don't make a cone nut socket that would fit over the two parallel end, but they can't be under too much torque. Some type of vise grips with a pointed tip might fit in there.
.

All I can think of is a crows foot wrench, but there's not enough clearance for it.

 

[PCeBiker]

I will try to make another attempt to unscrew it and I will tell you what happened. P.S. nut on 17

If you mean 17 mm, this might work??,..

Limited-time deal: CTA Tools 2067 17mm Oxygen Sensor Wrench Land Rover https://a.co/d/bRM6qT4

Just take a grinder too it and cut the slots to fit,..

Then smack it with a BFH.

 

[harryS]

If you can grind the requisite slots and make a hole for the axle, what you do is clamp the above makeshift tool against the cone nut with a washer/nut on the axle. Now a pipe wrench can turn the nut while the clamping nut holds it against the cone nut.

People use this trick on BB sockets to hold those sockets against the frame, so they can torque the BB cone off.

You could also take a six point 1/2" socket with the right size and grind off the walls to allow the sides of the cone nut to poke out, Then a pipe wrench and a clamp nut will get that cone nut out, if it was meant to turn.

 

[PCeBiker]

You could also take a six point 1/2" socket with the right size and grind off the walls to allow the sides of the cone nut to poke out, Then a pipe wrench and a clamp nut will get that cone nut out, if it was meant to turn.

That's an even better idea,..

However, you'll need to check your socket to see what's inside,..

My ½" drive 19mm socket has the square drive connection go all the way through the socket, but my ½" drive 17mm socket from a different brand tapers to a round hole inside the socket.

My hub motor axle is 12mm with 10mm slots and the 19mm socket fits entirely over the axle,..

The 17mm socket only fits up to the bottom of the square drive connection,..

 

[PCeBiker]

If you can grind the requisite slots and make a hole for the axle,

That oxygen sensor socket should have all 6 walls go all the way through the socket ??

Oxygen sensors are generally tall and fat and need clearance for more than the wire inside.
It just has a slit in the socket so it can fit over the wires, then reach really deep with full clearance. (generally speaking.)



Luckily, there's a picture of the inside of the socket for reference,..