Disable throttle and brakes KT Controller

[Hector6150]

Hello all! I’m switching over from my Bafang components to KT controller and display. I have a Bafang 1000watt rear hub.
My question is, is there a way to disable brakes and throttle on the display so I can test out the unit. I thought my brakes and throttle would work with the 9 pin cable, but they have the same ends. I’m going to get the right throttle but really don’t want the brakes anyway.
Any help appreciated!

 

[AHicks]

Not that I would recommend riding that way (there WILL be a day where that will bite you where it hurts!!), but it should work fine with the brake wires disconnected.

 

[Hector6150]

Not that I would recommend riding that way (there WILL be a day where that will bite you where it hurts!!), but it should work fine with the brake wires disconnected.

What about no throttle? Just trying to test it out.

 

[Hector6150]

I’ve got it loosely hooked up. Walking assist works but not PAS. I’m thinking I at least need the throttle.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

The PAS not working may be due to a setting issue. What display model do you have? Do you have the manual?

 

[Hector6150]

The PAS not working may be due to a setting issue. What display model do you have? Do you have the manual?

I have the LCD 7. I’m splicing my old throttle cable now. Do we’ll see. I think I have all the settings correct. I went by the Bolton Ebike video to do.

 

[AHicks]

I've never tried it, but thinking PAS should work without the throttle - IF - your PAS is wired up properly and settings are correct.

See the C1 parameter settings. If 01 doesn't work, try 06

I've said this before, and I'll likely say it again, take it for what it's worth coming from an old man. When it comes to wiring up something like this KT controller project, half a## attempts generally produce half a## results.....

 

[Hector6150]

I've never tried it, but thinking PAS should work without the throttle - IF - your PAS is wired up properly and settings are correct.

See the C1 parameter settings. If 01 doesn't work, try 06

I've said this before, and I'll likely say it again, take it for what it's worth coming from an old man. When it comes to wiring up something like this KT controller project, half a## attempts generally produce half a## results.....

Changing that setting worked. I had on 2. So I understand what is that changing exactly?

 

[AHicks]

Changing that setting worked. I had on 2. So I understand what is that changing exactly?

The PAS sensor is designed to work in just one direction. It won't work when pedaled backwards. You just set it to work in the direction opposite of the way you had it set originally...

 

[Hector6150]

The PAS sensor is designed to work in just one direction. It won't work when pedaled backwards. You just set it to work in the direction opposite of the way you had it set originally...

Good deal! Thanks! And I guess it will work without throttle! I may have more questions after a short test ride.

 

[m@Robertson]

Walking assist works but not PAS. I’m thinking I at least need the throttle.

The C1 setting in the display governs PAS magnet count (5, 8 and 10), sensor travel direction and start sensitivity. If PAS isn't working its either a bad sensor or a bad C1 setting. To at least some degree you can get the magnet count wrong - my latest build had a count not on the chart and I got it to work just fine. You know if you have the direction bad if you pedal backwards and it works (I just experienced this, so setting it in the wrong direction actually doesn't disable it). The V12 column on the right is the reverse side, which you use if your sensor is on the non-drive (left) side. Here is a link to a copy of the KT settings - but it was re-written by a native English speaker, which makes it a unicorn. This is for the LCD3 but KT has the same settings across all their displays, since they all interface with KT controllers.

KT-LCD3-Dillenger.pdf

drive.google.com

The P4=1 setting MIGHT let you get away with no connected throttle. Possibly in conjunction with one of the C4 functions matched to the P4 option. You'll see those on the right side of the C4 chart. But in my experience a throttle has to be connected or the controller is bricked. I've never tried to force it to function but considering the legality of a throttle in the first place, I would think there's a way to do it, although I have seen HIGO loopback plugs for the display, to fool the controller if no display is in use (Area 13 sells them), so maybe thats how you are supposed to do a no-throttle system.

 

[Hector6150]

I gave it a test ride. Lots of power now in PAS levels. Well @AHicks you was right on needed the brakes. Level 5 keeps wanting to go for a couple feet or so.
Question: how do I adjust PAS level one to say around 8 mph? And I must have my motor settings wrong in the settings because it reads 45mph in level 1.

 

[m@Robertson]

Question: how do I adjust PAS level one to say around 8 mph?

You don't. What you can do is set C1 to the 'lowest' number available to your magnet setting. Next, look to C14 and set it to a lower setting if possible.

And I must have my motor settings wrong in the settings because it reads 45mph in level 1.

I have seen a bad P2 setting do that on Bafang 750w motors. They either need P5 or P6 and you never know which until you see that problem happen.

 

[PCeBiker]

Here is a link to a copy of the KT settings - but it was re-written by a native English speaker, which makes it a unicorn. This is for the LCD3 but KT has the same settings across all their displays, since they all interface with KT controllers.

KT-LCD3-Dillenger.pdf

drive.google.com

Thanks for the link.

My version left me reading the same sentence a dozen times trying to understand it.

 

[AHicks]

You don't.

Actually you can, using a combination of C5 and C14. It takes some messing around because each bike is different. I use PAS 1 wattage in the range of 75-150 watts as a target. The wife likes something closer to 75 watts, and I prefer something in the 125-150 range (I'm twice her size on a more powerful bike). Use the C5 options to get close, then C14 for final trimming. This is NOT something you are going to do with the rear wheel off the ground. You need to actually ride the bike to see what's going on.

So PAS 1 wattage IS adjustable, but the other PAS levels are not. They will be based on an algorithm depending on how your PAS 1 has been set.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I think the P3 setting handles wether, or not, you want a speed limit per level. I remember playing with that, but I’m not near my bike right now.

 

[m@Robertson]

Actually you can, using a combination of C5 and C14. It takes some messing around because each bike is different. I use PAS 1 wattage in the range of 75-150 watts as a target. The wife likes something closer to 75 watts, and I prefer something in the 125-150 range (I'm twice her size on a more powerful bike). Use the C5 options to get close, then C14 for final trimming. This is NOT something you are going to do with the rear wheel off the ground. You need to actually ride the bike to see what's going on.

So PAS 1 wattage IS adjustable, but the other PAS levels are not. They will be based on an algorithm depending on how your PAS 1 has been set.

welllll sure you can back into it that way, but bringing C5 into the equation affects everything across the board, and not in a good way, for me at least. I always set C5 to '0' which is the slowest of the three slow-start settings that also retain 100% amp delivery (this 3-stage slow-start stuff is well-known but only actually documented in the most recent KT manuals that I have seen). I find it to be a much better way to keep acceleration down to an always-safe level while not neutering the overall output. That setting is sort of the secret of safe AWD on the front motor.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

welllll sure you can back into it that way, but bringing C5 into the equation affects everything across the board, and not in a good way, for me at least. I always set C5 to '0' which is the slowest of the three slow-start settings that also retain 100% amp delivery (this 3-stage slow-start stuff is well-known but only actually documented in the most recent KT manuals that I have seen). I find it to be a much better way to keep acceleration down to an always-safe level while not neutering the overall output. That setting is sort of the secret of safe AWD on the front motor.

I was wondering about that setting. It’s nice to hear your experience on that.

 

[AHicks]

I would suggest you try it and see how you like it. Set it as above, and if you have any concern over how much power it leaves you with at wide open throttle, change it back. My experience has been you will have PLENTY of power available at wide open throttle even with the max amps cut way back.

From memory, I have a 35a KT controller on a 1000w MAC geared hub that will allow 1400w at wide open throttle while set to allow140w in PAS 1 (stock RAD battery), and a 500 watt generic geared hub that will pull 980w using a KT-22a set the same way in PAS 1. Suit yourself....

I have no clue, and really little interest in AWD setups....

 

[WilliamT]

I don't use the throttle (disconnected) or the brake cutoffs (disconnected) on my BBS02. The brake cutoffs makes it very difficult to ride in refrozen snow especially when climbing. I need the motor engaged all the time to keep the momentum going while feathering the brake to maintain my balance to keep from falling. Having the motor cut off and on causes me to lose my balance making the climb not possible.