That stuff has worked for me across a wide variety of punctures, both as a tube sealant and as my tubeless sealant. Survived a 6-nail puncture (nailgun strip) once on a fat tubeless tire with Flatout. Use it on my Bullitt where the tires are much narrower and pressures much higher (60 psi front and 70 rear). Its only failure was very recently when something - I never figured out what - put a 3/4" tear in my tire casing and a similar slice into my front tube. Flatout everywhere. Tire (20x2.4") went flat in about 20 feet. Was almost unpatchable. Not much anything will do against that.
I found the new thinner flat out sucks in tubeless. the sealed holes always weep and you can lose 8ox in a month or two. I dont have any of the regular to test it out.
I talked to FlatOut maybe a year ago and the woman I spoke to on the phone told me the viscosity on the version Home Depot sells is no different than the Sportsman Formula that everyone uses on their bikes - at least they before the bike version came out. I have had great experience with the original stuff so no interest in experimenting. I did also have it seal a puncture on that same 2.4" tire. The one where it didn't it was literally at night, below freezing, with a full load of groceries and I was just not in the mood to go hunt down the culprit for posterity's sake. Was my first need-roadside-repair flat in over two years so I guess I was due.
I bought it as I had no luck with the regular flat out on our 70 psi tandem tires. so I bought the thinner stuff but then decided to go to tubeless and used that. the tire held air well but it leaked out the punters always. I would see wet spots in the same places on the tires. every day.
I would go out on a limb to say, the higher the PSI the more viscosity. At 120 you would need caulk or it would just spray out.
at about 90 rpms cadence you can do 28 mph or so with a 42t chainring and 700c wheels.
Why don’t you raise money and start manufacturing? I would buy one
Any one can use this simple tool for calculating gearing. I use it regularly. You will loose almost 20% on the top end but gain about 20% of torque in every gear.
Thanks for saying that. I like to keep it local. If you want to see some of my builds they are on google maps. Just search for PedalUma eBikes. Maybe you have a local builder who can help you. All the best.
If you have an analog watch with a second hand, calculating your cadence is easy. Just count revolutions for 15 seconds and multiply by four. For me it is easiest while ridding to just double the number twice. So, if it is 15 revolutions in 15 seconds, you get 30, then 60. You have a cadence of 60. It is is 20, then you get 40, then your cadence is 80.
bikecalc.com
