Did I blow my controller?

[dhdallas]

I was out for a ride and my chain was slipping. When I got home and put the bike on the repair stand. I applied the throttle and then also applied some brake pressure in order to put a load on the chain and see if it was really slipping (no more than 10 seconds). The chain slipped a few times and then everything went dead...I mean everything; no display, nothing. I recharged the battery & then everything powered up normally so I ordered a new chain and a new chainring. BUT a few days later, after putting on the new chain ring and chain, I once again have no power, no display, nothing (and the battery is fully charged). I am thinking I blew the contoller when I foolishly applied the braking load for the 10 second interval. I doubt I could have actually burnt out the motor core that quickly. What do you guys think?

*The bike conversion is less than a year old and gently ridden with no crashes.
* I occasionally use the throttle with PAS - does this really hurt the controller?

Extra note - I do not use the electric brake cut off function.

 

[AHicks]

I would encourage you to go over your connections, all of them, with particular srutiny of those between the battery and the controller, and the controller to the display.

No, it's shouldn't hurt a thing using the throttle and PAS together.

 

[harryS]

He's talking about the Bafang BBSHD, a 1000W mid drive conversion, Must not have the elecric brake switches connected. Probably no worse than going up a hill if the rear wheel was spinning during his slip test.

If the wheel was locked solid, I have no idea. Full power with motor stalled is going to be a lot of current. Still, I don't see how that keeps the display from powering up. The display is stand alone. All it requires is battery/ground to power up. Then it starts talking to the controller on its serial link. If the controller doesn't respond, you get an Error, Blank screen means it isn't getting power. Most ebike displays are designed like this,

Check connectors. Make sure battery is in its cradle. If you can, check the battery output. going to the BBSHD. You can also check for battery power at the main harness that goes to the handlebars.

 

[dhdallas]

Correct. I do not use the electric brake cut off function but just my old fashioned manual V-brakes. I checked all the harnesses and connector pins which seem fine. It just seems too much of a coincidence that when doing the load test with the brakes, that is when it happened. I guess I will have to jump the appropriate pins and see if I can figure out what I did to it. I will gladly buy a new controller if that is it but hate to waste money and time waiting on it to come just to find out that is not the problem.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Did you find the problem?
I agree with you on the coincidence factor. The most obvious answer is typically the correct one.
Did you happen to watch the display during the process? What are your max amps set at?

 

[dhdallas]

It was a connection problem and strange coincidence. Thanks for the advice.

 

[dhdallas]

I would encourage you to go over your connections, all of them, with particular srutiny of those between the battery and the controller, and the controller to the display.

No, it's shouldn't hurt a thing using the throttle and PAS together.

It was a connection problem and strange coincidence. Thanks for the advice.

 

[dhdallas]

I would encourage you to go over your connections, all of them, with particular srutiny of those between the battery and the controller, and the controller to the display.

No, it's shouldn't hurt a thing using the throttle and PAS together.

It was a connection problem and strange coincidence. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I like easy fixes