Did anyone have brake pads rubbing against the rotor noise when you first got your ripcurrent?

ecotrichammer

ecotrichammer

Member
Region
USA
I think it's normal, cuz almost every bike I bought had this same issue. I think it should slowly disappear over time right because it's just a issue for a new fresh bike? Everything from the pistons work great. Breaks work great.
 
Often they are slightly warped. This is typical of new bikes. It just needs a little adjustment with a Park Tool DT-2.
 
Move the handlebar tilt way forward. So you can flip the bike without damaging sensitive things like the display and shifters. It will rest on the ends of the grips. Put down a white piece of paper with the bike upside down so you can see between the brake pads. Spin the wheel by hand and note where it rubs and on what side. Then true the disc. Channel locks can work in a pinch. Rotors have spokes. You will want to true the spokes of the rotor not the braking surface. Be gentle. You don't have to do anything. But untrue brakes are bad. See YouTube. Maybe use key words like Park Tool and Rotor True.
 
PedalUma said:
Move the handlebar tilt way forward. So you can flip the bike without damaging sensitive things like the display and shifters. It will rest on the ends of the grips. Put down a white piece of paper with the bike upside down so you can see between the brake pads. Spin the wheel by hand and note where it rubs and on what side. Then true the disc. Channel locks can work in a pinch. Rotors have spokes. You will want to true the spokes of the rotor not the braking surface. Be gentle. You don't have to do anything. But untrue brakes are bad. See YouTube. Maybe use key words like Park Tool and Rotor True.
Click to expand...
Yeah we tried using the alignment tool, then moving the caliper, now I guess we try this method. So I'm guessing the rotor is a bit warped? Let me try. Thanks so much!
 
PedalUma said:
Move the handlebar tilt way forward. So you can flip the bike without damaging sensitive things like the display and shifters. It will rest on the ends of the grips. Put down a white piece of paper with the bike upside down so you can see between the brake pads. Spin the wheel by hand and note where it rubs and on what side. Then true the disc. Channel locks can work in a pinch. Rotors have spokes. You will want to true the spokes of the rotor not the braking surface. Be gentle. You don't have to do anything. But untrue brakes are bad. See YouTube. Maybe use key words like Park Tool and Rotor True.
Click to expand...
So it looks like we aligned everything correctly, put it on stand, the wheels spin freely with no problem. However, when we ride it, only the first few seconds of starting pedaling at 14mph did we hear for 3-4 seconds, then it goes away. It repeats itself again when we go thru same process again. What's the issue you think?
 
Loosen that wheel and retighten with very slight pressure on that brake lever from a rubber band. I will bet it is the rear. The chain is on the right side and is pulling the wheel off center.
 
PedalUma said:
Loosen that wheel and retighten with very slight pressure on that brake lever from a rubber band. I will bet it is the rear. The chain is on the right side and is pulling the wheel off center.
Click to expand...
It also might help to try this at several different positions.

I have sharpie marks on the inner part of the disc near the bolt holes and try different marked positions.

The rear disc on my Juiced CCX was a nightmare to get aligned. I finally figured out that the disc mounts on the frame were not 100% accurate, so I had to tweak the bracket between the frame mounts and caliber.
 
PedalUma said:
Loosen that wheel and retighten with very slight pressure on that brake lever from a rubber band. I will bet it is the rear. The chain is on the right side and is pulling the wheel off center.
Click to expand...
Yeah the noise is coming from the back. The rotors are straight not messed up. Ok Ill try that now will update you! So loose wheel 1st, then put rubber band on brake, then retighten right?
 
Or rubber band, flip, loosen, tighten.
Footnote: never apply brake pressure when the wheel is removed.
 
I have 5 bikes, 3 different brands and they have all done this upon arrival. my Bikonit HD-750 has by far been the worst, the rotors were so warped I had to replace them, Bikonit said "it was normal" when setting the rotor on a flat table it was 5mm higher on one side than the other, the rattle/grind noise it made was horrific, other riders on the bike trail were calling me out on it, sounded like someone banging together two wrenches.
 
The way I do it is to loosen the bolts holding the calipers to the bike and squeeze the brake handle while re-tightening the bolts. This centers the calipers on the rotor when the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts. I had a Jamis with mechanical disc brakes that I had to do this with everytime I had to take a wheel off the bike. It was my first experience with disc brakes and really made me hate disc brakes. Hydraulics are less fussy because they are self adjusting, at least the TRP hydraulics that I have are.
 
Got it. Share what results you are having. So other's can learn. Let us know if it is a rotor bur. These rotors are stamped and not always cleanly.
 
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