Derailer skipping

[Dinnerfork]

Bought this bike and it is absolutely amazing, but when I'm in my two highest gears going uphill and applying heavy torque the chain will begin to skip teeth. I'm sure an adjustment is just needed. Is this something I should try to attempt myself or should i try to get it to a bike shop if i can find one that is open?

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

 

[rich c]

Are you sure the gears and chain aren't worn out? Skipping teeth is not an adjustment, chain hopping from gear to gear or not making it to a gear is adjustment. Adjustments are easy, you just need to make minor changes. If it gets worse, turn the screw the other way. Helps a lot to do the adjustments on a bike stand so it's better than when riding. But I don't think derailleur adjustment is your issue.

 

[indianajo]

Usually skipping is a sign the chain is worn out. If you are lucky the sprockets aren't worn out too. Only if it is going poppity poppity between speeds will changing the cable adjustment help anything.
Atom lynx is an 11 speed bike, known for the chain only lasting 1000 miles on human powered bikes. Maybe 500 miles/chain on a hub drive bike? one person reported that on his 11 speed ebike.
You had better get used to changing it yourself if you ride often. Here is an 11 speed chain pin pop tool https://www.modernbike.com/birzman-...ble-chain-rivet-extractorl-with-wooden-handle
Here is a master link tool https://www.modernbike.com/park-tool-mlp-1.2-chain-link-pliers
And if you really want to check your chain before changing it here is the tool I am using: https://www.modernbike.com/park-tool-cc-4-chain-wear-indicator
Protect your display with a couple of 4x4 props under your handlebar, or something when you turn the bike upside down.
You can pick various 11 speed chains I'm using KMC that comes with a master link. there are premium priced ones that are advertised for ebikes, maybe they are better. Read the chain threads under this forum. Master link parts are easy to loose, they fire off into space & you find them 6 months later when you don't need them. Buy a couple of extras with the chain and save yourself an $8 shipping fee & 3 day delay.
It is best to photograph the chain routing before removal. I have a phone that sends photos to google that wants my birthdate & credit information to show me anything, so I didn't take a picture and removed & replaced the master link twice to get it right.
I like modernbike because they are close to me in Iowa. Other bike parts shops are thebikeshopstore.com (NY) and jensonusa.com (CA)
If it still skips with a tight chain,your sprockets are worn and a new cluster is in order - about $280 for that 11-48 one. Changing the sprocket requires a sprocket removal tool, a breaker bar(home store), and either a chain whip or my favorite, a used chain to wrap the sprockets and a chanllock big*** plier.
BTW I bought an 8 speed bike with a triple front sprocket for 32:32 to 52:11 ratios, and my chain lasted 5000 miles with no motor pulling the chain. Lubed twice a month since I leave it parked out in the rain at work or shopping. Those in the know tell me front derailleurs are obsolete. We are supposed to change the chain every 400 miles now that 12 speed sprockets are the in thing.

 

[Dinnerfork]

Skipping might be the wrong terminology. The bike only has about 30 miles on it so the gears aren't worn out. I'm watching videos on adjustment. I think when i am applying high torque the chain is trying to move back up the cassette.

 

[Dinnerfork]

Might have messed with the adjustment on the shifter itself not knowing what i was doing. Would that cause these sort of issues?

 

[TMH]

IIRC mine did that too when new. Minimal derailleur adjustment fixed it. It came kind of adjusted a little between certain cogs when received. Also occurred when applying higher pressure to the pedals - this is when an out-of-adjustment derailleur shows up, unless it just isn't changing gears at all.

 

[smorgasbord]

There could be two things going on here:

1) It could be, as has been postulated above, that the derailleur isn't properly positioned relative to the cassette sprocket centers. This is usually a cable tension adjustment near the shifter and/or the derailleur. Essentially, it changes the length of the cable housing, which changes the cable tension. More tension pulls the derailleur higher up the cassette (towards the wheel), less tension lets the springs move the derailleur down the cassette (away from the wheel).

2) It could also be that the "B" screw adjustment is off. Especially since this is a full-suspension bike, a common newbie/owner mistake is to adjust the derailleur to shift well when on a bike stand. That means the suspension is at a fully uncompressed state. When you sit on the bike, it compresses some (should be 25-35% of the rear shock travel), and especially when you ride the suspension compresses even more. So, shifting while on the bike is different than when off the bike. I don't know how Shimano deals with this, but for SRAM Eagle the instructions are to shift to the largest sprocket, let enough air out of the rear shock to let it drop to the sag setting and then adjust the derailleur B-screw until the guide wheels are a certain distance. There's a little plastic do-hickey to guide you. With the rear suspension at sag, however, you can also just adjust things until things shift really well, then pump the rear shock back up.

 

[Dinnerfork]

I adjusted the barrel at the shifter to the point where it was out of the appropriate gear. I then returned it to normal but the issue is still there. Looks like i need to get some tuning.

 

[smorgasbord]

I adjusted the barrel at the shifter to the point where it was out of the appropriate gear. I then returned it to normal but the issue is still there. Looks like i need to get some tuning.

What you should do is a full adjustment:
1) Shift to the smallest cog.
2) Remove the shifter cable from the derailleur. One bolt.
3) Adjust the limit screw so that the chain is straight off the derailleur onto the cog. If you've got an SRAM Eagle, then you actually want the derailleur to be slightly outside.
4) Click the shifter as far towards the "high" gear as possible, just to be sure.
5) Reconnect the cable. Be careful not to leave too much slack nor to pull on the cable either.
6) Now shift to the largest cog. Adjust the limit screw to align.
7) Now shift to a middle cog. Adjust the cable tension to align the derailleur to whatever cog is correct.

Now if you still have problems, then that "B" screw adjustment needs to be done.

 

[6zfshdb]

One of my new Pedego bikes experienced similar symptoms. I've worked on bike derailleurs for many years but I wasn't able to fix the issue by making adjustments. The problem turned out to be a bent derailleur hanger that was damaged during shipping. It was an easy fix using this Park tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010T6L22E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not cheap but I use it on all my conventional bikes as well. There are cheaper alignment tools available though.

It is very easy to bend a derailleur. Sometimes, just laying the bike down can do it. If all else fails, it might be worth checking.