Cut off voltage of the standard Moscow?
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-sandro-
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On this site https://www.leoncycle.com.au/dehawk-i5-battery-48v-for-ncm-moscow-milano-venice I see 42V cutoff, isn't this a litte too conservative? That is 3.23 per cell.
But then on this other site https://www.leoncycle.com/replacement-battery-for-ncm-moscow-aspen I see "End Voltage 27,5V" which is way too low.
I'm confused, isn't the cut off valued decided by the controller anyway?
Since I'm here, does anyone know the exact model of the cells inside the battery pack?
But then on this other site https://www.leoncycle.com/replacement-battery-for-ncm-moscow-aspen I see "End Voltage 27,5V" which is way too low.
I'm confused, isn't the cut off valued decided by the controller anyway?
Since I'm here, does anyone know the exact model of the cells inside the battery pack?
The 42V cutoff sounds reasonable for a 13s pack. The 27.5V looks like an error and is likely for the 36V pack (although it represents 2.75 V/cell, unlike the 3.23 they show for the 48V pack).
Most controllers also have a cut-off voltage (in some it is programmable). The 1st one to be reached (controller or battery) will shut things down.
Mine usually is at 54.1v too. What's wrong with that?
That's a normal reading
I ran my battery on my Moscow Plus to exhaustion last night.
Here's what I found interesting though. As the voltage dropped the torque dropped but the bike was always giving me an assist of some kind, just maybe not the full beans it usually gives. Also after 41.7v hit and the bike was not providing an assist anymore it still only took 2-3 minutes for the voltage to rise a bit and then I could use the throttle or PAS to assist me for a few moments. It was actually still very useful as I could pedal on my own most of the time, but when I got to a hill I could nudge the throttle for a bit of an assist OR I could use the throttle at stops to get moving a bit easier. Still useful even with a mostly flat battery, in fact if I am on a long trip once the battery falls below 44v I will go to PAS 0 and just use the throttle as-needed and I bet I'll have quite a bit of range.
But main take away is 41.7v is where mine stopped delivering any useful output to the wheel. I suspect 41v (3.2v per cell) is where the display fully cuts out.
- My display flashed until around 43.5 volts
- After 43.5v it stopped flashing but the bike still was getting an assist
- From 43.5v to 41.7v the bike worked but had no bars on the battery display, not even flashing
- After 41.7v the bike was not giving any assist
Here's what I found interesting though. As the voltage dropped the torque dropped but the bike was always giving me an assist of some kind, just maybe not the full beans it usually gives. Also after 41.7v hit and the bike was not providing an assist anymore it still only took 2-3 minutes for the voltage to rise a bit and then I could use the throttle or PAS to assist me for a few moments. It was actually still very useful as I could pedal on my own most of the time, but when I got to a hill I could nudge the throttle for a bit of an assist OR I could use the throttle at stops to get moving a bit easier. Still useful even with a mostly flat battery, in fact if I am on a long trip once the battery falls below 44v I will go to PAS 0 and just use the throttle as-needed and I bet I'll have quite a bit of range.
But main take away is 41.7v is where mine stopped delivering any useful output to the wheel. I suspect 41v (3.2v per cell) is where the display fully cuts out.
Thanks,,,very useful. I have always wondered about the LVC's on both the controller and battery. I believe the BMS in the battery also has it's own LVC and am just assuming that whichever one is reached 1st (controller or battery) will initiate some kind of shutdown. Anyone can shed any light on this? (Although in general, I try to stay away from reaching LVC as I don't believe it's that healthy for the cells.)
From reading online I think the Dorado batteries have a 39 or 40v cut-off internally. I've seen spec sheets that said either value as the low voltage cut-off for the battery pack.
Can't be 42v unless my display is reading the voltage wrong (possible). Certainly I've had my display working below 41.7v down around 41.5v according to it.
If you decide to get the C7 display it will show the voltage.
That's basically accurate. Below 42 volts the display works but there's very little useful motor power. As a rider you're very much feel the difference when it's around 42v, there's no doubt the bike is sluggish.
From the test reports I got from Aijiu the cut off for the Dorado battery's BMS that they are shipping me is right around 36v.
Battery cut-off recommended is 2.5v per cell or around 33.5v (from Samsung spec sheet)
Dorado BMS cut-off is around 36v (from battery engineering report)
Moscow C7 cut-off is around 42.5v (from riding my bike) [Edit: It's cut off is exactly 40v, below that display goes off]
This makes me feel the C7 does a great job at not taking the battery anywhere near the danger zones of over discharging the cells. I can see from the test report I was sent that discharging past 40v the voltage falls off rapidly and its not worthwhile to even try drawing that last bit of juice for an ebike.
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