Custom Riding Modes for Nyon

[Over50]

Originally, I was experimenting with custom modes where every level of assist was turned down. For instance I would have Eco or M1 at around 40%. The stock assist levels for the Performance Speed motor are 60%, 140%, 240% and 340%. But now I've tried something a little different and I like the results although they are baffling me a little. I set the M1 at higher than Eco off-the-line and then tailing off to stock-Eco-level by 10 mph - on the logic I'd get a little more boost from a stop. Same pattern for the other assist levels but at much lower %'s relative to the stock settings:

Prior to having the Nyon, if I did a ride mostly in Eco, it seemed the best I could ever achieve in the motor vs rider was 45% motor and 55% rider (based on Kiox feedback). But the settings above riding mostly in M1 are giving me about 43% motor and 57% rider. I would have thought with the extra power off-the-line that my motor support would have increased relative to the stock Eco setting. For instance I just did a short 10 mile ride over to Starbucks and I was 87% in M1 and 13% in M2 - and that resulted in 57% rider and 43% motor. Seems a little odd to me. If the % motor/rider includes freewheeling (no support), I still would have thought the motor support would have been closer to 60%. Anyway, I find the settings above are giving me a nice blend of decent average and top speeds and still a good workout.

 

[TomWilcox]

Quite similar to the setting I posted on May 24th. Not quite as silly as it seems. Well done.

 

[Moonglow]

I posted this thread in February. You are the first to respond, so thank you. I thought there would be more response but maybe their just aren't that many Nyon's in use yet. I ride mainly on paved streets in bike lanes for exercise mostly the same route. Climb about a 1,000 feet overall but the path is up and down. In mode 1, I start out with 75% assist and climb to 100% at 10 mph, after that my motor support declines to 45% and falls to zero at just under 20 mph. My reason for not starting at zero is that I like some assist from a full stop so I don't have to stand on the pedals to get moving. Some of the stops on my route have a grade (my front chain ring has 52 teeth) and I don't like to use the biggest gear in the rear (42 teeth) every time I stop at the base of a slope. My other reason for the 75% assist is making left turns in traffic. I try to get out of the way of cars as quickly as I can. Unless I am driving into a headwind or on a long climb I find that as my speed climbs I want less assist from the motor. My goal is to ride in the lowest custom level of assist and use the gears to keep my cadence at a minimum of 70 rpm. My mode 2 starts at 135%, climbs to 150% at about 10 mph and then falls to zero motor assist around 22 mph. Mainly use 2 when I reach a hill that I need help with. My goal is to increase my strength so that I can do my ride only in level 1. I never use custom 3. I created 4 as a power mode because getting into the bosch standard modes is too many steps. I start out 175% (thought might be hard on the motor to start at full power) and a little over 6 mph I reach max output for the motor at 340% and stay at max until motor cuts out around 28 mph. I think my mode 4 is redundant but I created it because it is just easier. I wish bosch would give the user the option of rotating thru 8 speeds with the plus and minus keys letting the user customize the order. I think what you do in custom is personal to what works best for you. It is interesting to hear what others have done and why they did it.

This was a great thread to get started Gadgetguy - the others are mostly people debating the value of upgrading to Nyon, so this was helpful to have something specifically discussing the uses for the custom modes (and by implication the value of paying to unlock this option).

 

[Moonglow]

It would be great to see them go a step further and allow customisation with other variables, such as rider force. There are two common occasions when I'm riding at 5km an hour and they have very different assist requirements. Dawdling through people or trails where you dont want to surge or accelerate fast (for whatever reasons). In this one my pedalling rate is usally slow and moderate/light.
The common one most have mentioned when you are accelerating at traffic lights etc and want to get up to the traffic speed asap. Here the cadence is high and force high.

There's possibly another one when I'm in a lowish gear and spinning to get up a big hill with heavy cargo - this might be the same as the traffic light one, but in the stock modes I've noticed a weird curve when I change up that the motor seems to help me more. I'm only a week into riding the new bike so still getting used to the combo of the bosch and rohloff so take this with a grain of salt.

 

[TomWilcox]

On the occasions you've described, its easy to set a custom mode that provides higher assistance at low speeds. Especially good for taking off at lights, or when you've got a heavy load. This gets you up to speed within the first 10 or so pedals and then you can moderate it down to whatever assistance is comfortable for you. Bosch is essentially using this technique in their upcoming eMTB settings where you basically ride with the same effort and the bike will adjust the gearing for you - essentially riding an "automatic" bike. Im not ready for that yet, but I think it will be quite useful for urban riding.

 

[fooferdoggie]

On the occasions you've described, its easy to set a custom mode that provides higher assistance at low speeds. Especially good for taking off at lights, or when you've got a heavy load. This gets you up to speed within the first 10 or so pedals and then you can moderate it down to whatever assistance is comfortable for you. Bosch is essentially using this technique in their upcoming eMTB settings where you basically ride with the same effort and the bike will adjust the gearing for you - essentially riding an "automatic" bike. Im not ready for that yet, but I think it will be quite useful for urban riding.

that's what I do and I have lowered the assistance on tour and raised it a bit on eco so they are not so far apart. this really helps on the tandem.

 

[TomWilcox]

I thoroughly agree. Somewhere between eco and tour is the sweet spot for almost all casual riding. My Domane+ only has a single (virtual) 50 tooth front chain ring, and weighs twice what my regular cannondale. Although this is not technically true, in my mind I think of eco as removing the excess weight of the Trek and bringing down to the same as my lightweight cannondale. I use tour to pretend dropping from my 50 tooth front chain ring to the 34 tooth front chainring of my cannondale for the climb or into the wind. In reality, I think tour has a bit more power than what I could muster on my 34 tooth, because on the long steep climb up to my house, regular riders are doing about 8 mph on their small chainring, and I'm doing about 12 mph in tour. So often times, tour is a tad bit too strong.

 

[Spiffyflyer]

I live in a very hilly area and use the motor maybe 40% of the time, and I'm a senior with health issues. Keep in mind that many of us don't use the motor going down a hill, or use it where it's flat. Simple geometry will tell you that you can't be going uphill more than half the time, at least not on a circular route!

So what's your beef? That we should use the motor to set new speed records on the flats?

Not unless your MC Esher

 

[sandyman44]

hi - appreciate this is an old thread but I have a couple of questions and this seems to be the only one on the entire internet with nyon v2 users who are doing what I (think I ) want to.
I have a scott genius emtb, performance CX, 2020 model. Kiox controller, mounted on stem.

recently my emtb was in the LBS for a couple of weeks queuing for a brake replacement so I used my old (non-E) mtb, and realised that I'm not burning the legs enough when on the emtb. When I got it back from the LBS I did the whole of my local 12 mile XC MTB route in Eco and got figures of 50% human 50% motor. Have done it 3 times since and can't get better. I simply don't feel as "worked out" when going round on the emtb vs when I took the old one. ok so I could use "off" but its a 28kg bike.. off is pretty darn painful. and I don't want to go back to non-E as the reason I got the E bike in the first place is a knee problem, which can still flare up randomly, and is more at risk of recurring the further I go. So ... when I'm riding the emtb I'd like to be able to get the human level up to 80-90% with only 10-20% motor support. But still the option to ask for lots of motor support depending on the terrain (or if the knee decides to flare up) . I'm aiming for something like the ERG mode behaviour of a turbo trainer so I can keep my HR and human power output high, but without killing my knee. I never ever use turbo, and sport only rarely. I did have the EMTB mode to start with but my lbs set it back to sport (by mistake) last year and I haven't really missed it.

Can someone please post detailed information about / screenshots of the support tuning capabilities of the nyon v2? all the videos I can find are remarkably brief and minimal. I'd be wanting to set custom modes where the lowest is much less than Eco (apart from possibly a bit of a starting slow speed kick) and the highest is somewhere between Tour and Sport.