Custom Conversion vs Stock.

[Chandlee EBS]

Would you rather have a hot stock bike or a cool custom conversion?

For example,
This:

Or this:

http://electricbikereview.com/community/threads/el-mariachi-ti-d-series-build-up.1455/#post-14942

 

[opimax]

Had to chose stock for stealth issues. I don't want the ST2 pictured but the ST1.5 , no computer or frills. Bike motor battery.

Price?

 

[Chandlee EBS]

Price?

Of custom builds? Between 2k and 10k. The one pictured, once completed, will be closer to the latter.

E-joe Epik SE was aways the stealthiest bike.

 

[opimax]

The overpriced Stromer pictured is 7k . At one point I was looking at a Catalyst frame that is filled w/batteries with a Falco motor but Stromer came through w our current ST1 replacement bikes so I did not pursue it.

I am sorry if I not helping your thread, stealth is my number 1 priority after meeting my minimum quality requirements

 

[flymeaway]

Would you rather have a hot stock bike or a cool custom conversion?

Having bought an EMotion Cross & Carbon, and converted a hybrid and a Tandem and working on my third conversion I would say if you're willing the conversion is the way to go. With the conversion you can pick your components and have a very capable ebike. The Carbon and Cross are great bikes, but on balance they don't perform any better then the converted bikes and price is certainly a big factor.

Court J

 

[Hong]

Why not both?

 

[Ann M.]

Hey hey! I see the Haibike tags, ut what is that smooth, sleek bike with the mid drive (Bafang?) Now that's what I call stealth.

 

[Lenny]

Why not both?

Modified front chain ring with matching color gets two thumbs up. Nice build.

 

[Hong]

Hey hey! What is that smooth, sleek bike with the mid drive (Bafang?) Now that's what I call stealth.

It's our new bike, sitting in front of a local bike shop who just three months ago told me they would "never sell electric bikes."

 

[Ann M.]

Modified front chain ring with matching color gets two thumbs up. Nice build.

Check out the matching blue on the front hub . Styling, folks!

 

[Gus]

Why not both?

That bike is sweeeeeeet!

No gears though with a Bafang mid drive? Or is there an IGH hiding in there?

 

[George S.]

The battery bag matches the wall behind, I think. Otherwise there is an extension cord. Wow, that is a look. But mid-drive needs gears, you would think, or you just prefer the look and balance. Beautiful color. Simplicity.

So, kits win. Cancel all the ST-2 stuff.

Really, though, when Court J says his BBS02 conversion is very comparable to his Neo Carbon.?Yikes, that holds my attention. Mostly because the BBS02 with an integrated battery is not much work. I keep waiting for another round of 'problems' with the BBS02. Or a shift sensor.

 

[Chandlee EBS]

Hey @Hong, is it just the perspective or did you run a 26" in the rear to make room for the battery? So good looking!

@flymeaway, did you miss the torque sensors on the Neos? Not to be a snob, (actually, I'm a total snob) but I would have trouble going back to cadence sensors. Are you using a THUN?

 

[opimax]

On the Neo or of the Neo?

 

[JoePah]

Why not both?

Nice job Hong! Not sure what style bike that is, but very clean.

 

[Chandlee EBS]

On the Neo or of the Neo?

Beside the Neo.

 

[Gus]

Hey @Hong, is it just the perspective or did you run a 26" in the rear to make room for the battery? So good looking

Ahhh, the rear wheel does appear to be smaller. I noticed that now too. Clever way to get room behind the seat tube for the battery. The two wheels looked the same size when I first looked at it.

This bike is white and gold not black and blue, right?

 

[Hong]

This bike is white and gold not black and blue, right?

Sorry I didn't have notifications on for this thread, but will try to answer all the questions. You wouldn't believe me when I say I wrote this "blue/black not white/gold" line the other night!

This blue one is our showcase bike with a high-end parts selection. The wheels are 26" and same size (we wouldn't run mis-matched wheels), but our other bike uses 700c wheels and tires. More pics of that one soon.

We do spec the bike with an optional NuVinci N360 IGH (internal gear hub). The mid-drive motor and the N360 allows you to climb almost any hill in a seated position. It's overkill for my neighborhood, so this blue bike was built light weight for speed. We do use the single-cog rear for simplicity and easier service and maintenance.

I will be posting more info in the Karmic section of the forums if anyone has more questions.

Cheers,
Hong

 

[flymeaway]

Why not both?

I agree, if you can afford it, buy a stock bike and do a conversion. I like riding the Carbon, it's a very attractive seamless design, but when it comes to performance and $'s I think most people can get the bike they want with better performance. I'm at the point in my MAC 500W 8T conversion where I'm doing motor tests and I already know "hands down" that this is going to be a more powerful bike then the Carbon, and faster then the BB02 (and maybe better torque). In the case of the MT1000 tandem, there weren't any options except conversion, and the end result is fantastic....so yes indeed both.

Court J.

 

[flymeaway]

@flymeaway, did you miss the torque sensors on the Neos? Not to be a snob, (actually, I'm a total snob) but I would have trouble going back to cadence sensors. Are you using a THUN?

I don't care for the torque sensor on the Carbon...IMHO it's not very linear and it is definitely inconsistent. I considered the THUN in the MAC conversion, but several factors came into play. The installation in the BB is more involved and in my case it would have interfered with shift cables. I could have rerouted the cables, but I'm not so devoted to the torque sensing system over the cadence system to go through the trouble. Using the THUN provides proportional output, but I found that when riding at relatively fast speeds to keep the bike going (using torque sensing) you have to put a constant significant mechanical force on the cranks to keep the motor running at high RPMS. This is a bit tiring for me at the end of my commute home........I can do it, but there is a better way. The PAS cadence sensor input into the CA3 will run the motor at whatever setting I've programmed in watts, speed or amps output. I have a 3 level selector and in the third level I have the output set at 500W to 24A cut-off with speed cut-off at 26 MPH. On the last leg of my commute home if I'm riding in level 3 as long as I'm pedaling faster then a speed I preselect the motor will run at full power, Unlike the torque sensor I don't have to be applying high mechanical force to the cranks, just keep the cranks turning at a speed above the cut-off. The sensor uses quadrature output so it only recognizes forward pedal motion. Much less tiring...same result.

Court J.