Creo 2 Carbon Cranks

[CutterSlade]

So this one should work?

 

[Dazmanturbo]

So this one should work?

Yes, that is the correct interface. You also need to ensure the arm with the spindle attached has a bolt on it. Some of the arms are bonded and can't be undone, you need to end up with 2 separate arms.

 

[CutterSlade]

Ohne more try: is this the one, you have and that works? If so, i didnt fully understand, how you managed to remove the bolt. Perhaps you can explain it once again for „dummys“ ;-)

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Ohne more try: is this the one, you have and that works? If so, i didnt fully understand, how you managed to remove the bolt. Perhaps you can explain it once again for „dummys“ ;-)

View attachment 176983View attachment 176984

You need to undo the 3 silver star bolts on the back of the spider and the spider comes away as per the photo below. You the need to remove the spindle from the non drive side by undoing the bolt so it is proud and giving it a wack with a rubber mallet. You will then end up with 2 arms that will bolt to the SL 1.2

 

[CutterSlade]

How did you get the bolt (that says don’t remove) out? No matter how much force I use, it doesn’t move at all.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

How did you get the bolt (that says don’t remove) out? No matter how much force I use, it doesn’t move at all.

The bolt is held in the lock thread, but it will undo with weight on it. Also found this video to show the spindle removal. Looks scary but done 3 of them now and dead easy

 

[CutterSlade]

I don’t know what a lock thread is supposed to be? Thanks for the link, that helps a lot with the next step. But still I am not sure how to get that bolt out. As you said, you need to get it out a little before you give it a smack with the Hammer. Or can you smack it without getting it out before or smack a torx sticking in it?

 

[Dazmanturbo]

I don’t know what a lock thread is supposed to be? Thanks for the link, that helps a lot with the next step. But still I am not sure how to get that bolt out. As you said, you need to get it out a little before you give it a smack with the Hammer. Or can you smack it without getting it out before or smack a torx sticking in it?

Thread lock is a glue applied to the thread to stop it coming undone. It is stiffer than a normal bolt, but will undo with turning force. Once this bolt is loose, this is the one that needs to be backed out so it can be hit with thee mallet to dislodge the spindle as per the video. I am now on holiday for the next 2 weeks in remote Norway with no wifi, so will unable to reply until I return if you have further questions

 

[CutterSlade]

It worked. Really was scary, as I had to smash the crank several times to get the spindle out, but finally it broke lose. Thanks a lot!!!

 

[wyhaertl]

I purchased the Creo 2 Carbon Comp and this came with alloy cranks. On the Creo 1, the weight difference in the cranks was fairly minimal between alloy and carbon and I was expecting the same of the SRAM Dub cranks on the Creo 2. However, I found that the alloy SRAM cranks and weighty numbers at 260g a side. I priced up the SRAM carbon cranks and these are expensive. I found a set for £525 (but have seen then cheaper in USA at around $300.

However, I have found a extremely cheap way to get carbon cranks on the Creo 2 and save 200g. The SRAM BB30 cranks and the same interface as SRAM Dub. I picked up a set of SRAM Force Carbon cranks for £50, removed the spindle and they fit just fine. The only down side is the left side does not have a self extracting bolt, but how often do you take the left crank off?

So look at BB30 cranks with a bolt on spindle and make a big saving over the SRAM Dub ones and nice weight drop to.

Thank you for the excellent tip. My question: do the cranks close flush with the engine housing? Is the Q-factor changed? Would it be possible to see a photo from above? Best regards Willy

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Thank you for the excellent tip. My question: do the cranks close flush with the engine housing? Is the Q-factor changed? Would it be possible to see a photo from above? Best regards Willy

I did not notice a change in Q factor. Here are the BB30 cranks on my bike. The drive side arm has the small silver ring for the normal spider to attach to, but I did not feel any additional width. I did feel the immediate lightness of the cranks and being fare easier to spin up with being much lighter.

 

[wyhaertl]

I did not notice a change in Q factor. Here are the BB30 cranks on my bike. The drive side arm has the small silver ring for the normal spider to attach to, but I did not feel any additional width. I did feel the immediate lightness of the cranks and being fare easier to spin up with being much lighter.

Thank you for the pictures and the answer

 

[PetroK]

Hi Folks, anybody know how to get shorter, like 160 carbon cranks for Creo 2, but original ones without this hacks? Preferable with same Q factor

 

[Franki]

Little warning the solution whit force crank is ok .
I do it.
But the q factor increase more 5/7 mm and I feel it pedaling.
Good day for all

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Hi Folks, anybody know how to get shorter, like 160 carbon cranks for Creo 2, but original ones without this hacks? Preferable with same Q factor

Shortest I have in the road version is 165mm from SRAM. The Levo SL 2 has the same motor, but the cranks on these can flared out slightly with a wider Q factor, so be aware of the shape of them. It may be worth looking out on the MTB side as they do use more of the shorter cranks. When I looked for the carbon arms using my hack, I struggled to find 165mm in carbon and ended up with 170mm, but it did turn out these work really well for me

 

[PetroK]

Another problem is that it seems SRAM is not publishing Q-factor even for own cranks, so I don't even understand will this fir properly or no.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-frc-assy-d2

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Another problem is that it seems SRAM is not publishing Q-factor even for own cranks, so I don't even understand will this fir properly or no.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-frc-assy-d2

The link is not working for me, but with new SRAM, you need the arms only. With the old BB30, it was possible to remove the arms as separate and therefore fit a Creo 2. The newer cranks have a fixed spindle that can't be removed, which will not fit the Creo 2.

 

[PetroK]

The link is not working for me, but with new SRAM, you need the arms only. With the old BB30, it was possible to remove the arms as separate and therefore fit a Creo 2. The newer cranks have a fixed spindle that can't be removed, which will not fit the Creo 2.

Oh, interesting. I've fixed the link, can you take a look? You are saying for those I won't be able to remove spindle?

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Oh, interesting. I've fixed the link, can you take a look? You are saying for those I won't be able to remove spindle?

The older BB30 has a bolt on the non drive side that states do not remove but once this is removed it splits into the spindle and separate arms. The later DUB cranks do not have this bolt and the spindle is bonded into place.
SRAM charge an eye watering amount for the carbon DUB crank arms (just the arms) and this is why I looked elsewhere to get my savings and found the BB30. I did get a brand new set of BB30 cranks for £120, over 4 times cheaper than what SRAM wanted for the DUB cranks

 

[PetroK]

But can you send link to those DUB cranks that you say are very expensive, just for reference? Those force which I found also called DUB cranks, so it is confusing.