Crank Arm Bolt Removal Tool

[Edmund Shane]

For my K2 Seaside 26” conversion project can anyone tell me what type of Crank Bolt Removal Tool I will need. This single speed cruiser is about twenty five years old—garaged, gently used—an excellent conversion opportunity with a Bafang 48V 500W rear hub system. When completed this eBike conversion will be throttle driven “only”, no pedal assist, no pedals or chaining. Thank you.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Looks standard. The bottom bracket there's a few different types out there you'll need to match a tool to
One of these should suffice.

Amazon.com

 

[Edmund Shane]

Thank you for your advice—For a decision re the correct tool, I will run the bike to my local bike shop.

 

[PCeBiker]

That Amazon link is a universal kit that should have everything that you need.

You shouldn't have to go to the bike shop.

 

[Edmund Shane]

Agreed. I have a good neighbor who has the correct tools for the Job. Thank you for your comment.

 

[PCeBiker]

When completed this eBike conversion will be throttle driven “only”, no pedal assist, no pedals or chaining. Thank you.

Awesome!!
Welcome to the throttle only club.

I've got working pedals but chose to not use them.

 

[indianajo]

. This single speed cruiser is about twenty five years old—garaged, gently used—an excellent conversion opportunity with a Bafang 48V 500W rear hub system.

25 year old cruisers do not have a 3 piece crank. Mine had a one piece crank. The secret to removing it, is take the pedals off. Remember one of them is left hand thread. Then remove the 1 1/8" nut from one side. Then the crank arm on the other side will slide through the tube at the bottom. Be prepared to catch the bearing balls on a piece of paper, they fall out. The sprocket is usually welded on, at least it was on my Austrian bicycle.
I ride my cruiser as much as I can stand under power of my feet. 73 year old heart+lungs need the exercise. But when the wind in my face drags me down to 4.2 mph and it takes me 6+ hours to ride 30 miles, on goes the power. I do not have a choice of riding a shorter route; not if I want to eat & sleep in my destination house that night. 3.7 hours of >128 bpm exercise is enough.

 

[Edmund Shane]

Indianajo: Thank you. You just inspired me to tackle the job. I have a pedal assist eBike and also go to the gym regularity to exercise for my 80 year old heart and lungs, (got you beat)—this throttle-only conversion job will be designed to give me a little pleasure break from 75 years of pedaling. And heh, I get your point—for certain, pedaling 30 miles in six hours is WORK.

 

[indianajo]

If you do have removable pedal arms, then the Pedro's arm remover is cheaper than the Park. Works fine. I use modernbike.com of desmoines.
If you have the one piece crank, to re-insert you glue the loose balls in the race on the bottom with petroleum jelly. Note removing pedals after 30 years is a problem. I have to use a vise on the arm, a thick 9/16" open end wrench (not import ****) a propane torch on the arm, and a 30" pipe on the wrench. Sometimes I have to grind additional flat on the pedal shank to make the thick wrench seat. Mcmaster.com sells real wright & proto open end wrenches. When re-insert use anti-sieze compound on the thread.

 

[PCeBiker]

If you have the one piece crank, to re-insert you glue the loose balls in the race on the bottom with petroleum jelly.

I used bearing grease on my old Raleigh 10-speed.
It was a 3 piece crank, but there was no bearing cage, just loose balls.

 

[indianajo]

I used bearing grease on my old Raleigh 10-speed.

NGLI #2 automobile grease is waaaay to thick for bicycles. Suitable for 140 F use at 100 mph, or on truck wheels carrying 8000 lb at 75 mph. I ride at 0 deg F, I cannot imagine fighting that compound. I use petroleum jelly on the bicycle wheel bearings also, at my 10000 mile lubrication. I have never seen any sign of wear on the balls or race.

Lubriplate might be okay but I have not seen it for sale for decades.