Controller appears shot, 10 pin Z1013B plug, not sure of next move

[g333]

Hi, I'll get you as far as I got, my diagnosis could be off, thanks in advance...

bought a Hurley Betty direct from Hurley 15 months ago, looks like they are out of business. Specs are here https://www.sportique.com/products/hurley-black-betty-bgs-cruiser-bike-almond

The bike has gone dead, I tested the battery, is good, also wire continuity, and am pretty sure there is just no power coming out of the correct pins at the closest connector to the seattube/battery-bracket mounted controller.

I opened it up and the whole thing is encased in RTV(sealant), there is just a motherboard in there and if I dig into the sealant, waste of time. Is that a replaceable part?

Looks like the controller # is PRJ R 005 02 A0, but there isn’t one like that for sale I can find.

I checked the connectors to see what it is, and it’s a 1-to5 (there’s a headlight I pulled day 1), 9 pin connector to that splitter from the controller.

But the power cable to the motor is 10 pin. I can’t find anything like that in a controller option on a generic option.

The guy from City Grounds claimed there aren’t parts.

Not sure what do do next. Thanks again.

 

[indianajo]

That connector is weird.
Controllers IMHO cannot be repaired even if not potted. I had one lasted 3 1/2 years, then lost contact between the PAS pickup and the computer chip. I could trace the signal onto the board from the wire, but the trace on the multilayer board was hidden. The pinout of the IC is undocumented, or maybe documented only in Chinese.
You can take the motor apart and solder on a standard wire harness. I favor 3 16 ga wires with 4 mm bullet connectors on the end, accompanied by a rectangular white 6 pin connector like I bought on ebay going to 5 24 ga wires. Many replacement controllers are compatible with that. Notice the scooter controllers (no PAS pickup) usually rotate backwards unless you reverse two motor wires. You will need a "door switch" or other enabler pulled to battery plus for an input. I use the alarm power connector to pick up the battery plus usually.
Or if that is too much trouble, you can buy an entire motor+controller+brake handles+PAS pickup+ throttle package from a seller. I have used ebikeling near Detroit. there is also bafangusadirect and ebikekits.com. The latter two require you to buy a battery.

 

[harryS]

What else tells you it is dead? Is there a display that is not powering on? That could be a display issue, rather than controller.

 

[g333]

What else tells you it is dead? Is there a display that is not powering on? That could be a display issue, rather than controller.

No power comes on, no display at all.

I have 36+v at the battery, but plugging that back in, nothing coming out after the controller.

I found a YT vid that ID'd the power & ground pins on the wire going to the display (which has the on-off switch of course). There's no current there.

Checked that wire's continuity through the splitter, it is good, then went back to that connecter closest to the controller and checked corresponding pins there for power. Nothing.

I've had other weird incidents for a couple months -- cadence sensor just didn't' want to read for a few rides. The bike popped off a couple times mid-ride, but there was always power right after.

This time I hit a bump while parking, then came back later and it would not turn on at all. It lives at the beach, corrosion is real, rust is real, it transports surfboards for its job.

Nothing about the bike is worth rebuilding, but fixing/swapping a controller would be most logical, I get the feeling a lot of ebikes end up in landfills due to cheap parts failing and repairs being difficult.

Thanks.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

If you want to swap the controller, you should be prepared to swap the display as well. Look for a combined set that has matching plugs for your pas, brake, throttle sensors. Especially your motor connector. You’ll want to get the display and controller as a kit to ensure they will work with each other. There are many styles of kits. Take your time and double check all connections before you make the purchase. There will likely be splicing that you’d have to do, unless you get lucky.

 

[harryS]

You found no voltage on the power line going to the display, and it doesn't turn on. Displays almost always run on battery power. Usually, it's a straight shot from the controller's power input wire to that display line. Pretty tough to kill that connection, especially with a potted controller. More likely the wire harness or its connection to the display is bad, or the controller ain't getting battery power because the battery connection is bad. By the way, if the display doesn't power up, you won't get any voltages out of the controller pins.

Check your battery pins, both at cradel and on battery. Those particular cradle styles are known to trap water and corrode the pins, And if you've been riding in salt water, that's likely.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Definitely worth it to first attempt to recover what you already have before buying other components.

Awesome suggestions Harry!

 

[g333]

By the way, if the display doesn't power up, you won't get any voltages out of the controller pins.

Thanks, good ideas. No change, checked battery plug terminals for corrosion, checked for voltage at them while plugged in, also checked inside controller after the plug terminal solders, also had voltage. Current is getting to the board.

However, what you wrote above makes no sense to me. There must be (potential)current going from the controller at all times the battery is on, even if the bike is off. It would be the only way the display can act as the gate and close the circuit/turn the bike on.

So -- I'm pretty sure I'm on the right pins on that 9 pin to the splitter, if I connect the power and ground through the multimeter after the controller but before the display, I should get voltage. That's the way any car circuit would work: battery provides current, module completes circuit if demanded on. The display needs juice at it at all times to even be able to power up, ie close the circuit

Thanks again.

 

[indianajo]

Many displays, as the KT, seek a contact closure between blue (electronic lock) and black (ground) to turn the controller on. Red power is not necessary until the display powers up.

 

[g333]

Many displays, as the KT, seek a contact closure between blue (electronic lock) and black (ground) to turn the controller on. Red power is not necessary until the display po

Ok thanks. Will learn more about that component.

 

[harryS]

IT's usually 5 wires to an LCD display, or 5 pins on a connector. Carefully probe all possible wire pairs on those pins. You said you already done this, . Gotta be battery voltage on one pair. If not, well then there is something wrong with the controller,

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