Contending with Wind and Climbs, What Works?

Riblet Coating is a surface coating that is applied to wind turbine blades. The small riblets in the coating mimic shark scale denticles, which help to reduce drag and increase lift. This allows the wind turbine to operate with the same effectiveness at lower wind speeds, while also reducing noise. This is why golf balls with surface texture dimples travel much farther than ones that are smooth. And why birds have fluffy feathers. A thin merino wool sweater will breath and reduce drag to a noticeable amount. Test it sometime on a windy day. At 2PM here in Coastal N. Cal it was 61 degrees and in Quebec Canada it was 75. As I head out for a small ride gusts are hitting 40 Mph with trees coming down. Invigorating.
 

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Pedaling technique makes a HUGE difference in range with hills and climbs. The pros focus on 7-O-clock to 10-O-clock. That is from the drive side perspective. It is the back sweep and up sweep part of the stroke. It makes pedaling like swimming, not stair climbing. This prevents spikes in the controller's requests for power, so its draw is low and steady. Speed, efficiency, range are improved significantly while lessening rider fatigue and potential knee issues. Smooth pedaling feels so good when you get it. Suddenly cadence jumps up even at low electrical assistance levels while in a high gear. Speed becomes easy. Grippy pedals are almost as good as being clipped in, which is not required.
 
Riblet Coating is a surface coating that is applied to wind turbine blades. The small riblets in the coating mimic shark scale denticles, which help to reduce drag and increase lift. This allows the wind turbine to operate with the same effectiveness at lower wind speeds, while also reducing noise. This is why golf balls with surface texture dimples travel much farther than ones that are smooth. And why birds have fluffy feathers. A thin merino wool sweater will breath and reduce drag to a noticeable amount. Test it sometime on a windy day. At 2PM here in Coastal N. Cal it was 61 degrees and in Quebec Canada it was 75. As I head out for a small ride gusts are hitting 40 Mph with trees coming down. Invigorating.
I have noticed this on the coast as I often commute with a Helly Hansen rain shell. The shell is only slightly bulkier than many of my typical shirts I ride in - but the smooth material does seem to drag much much more than it should at higher speeds. I'm a big guy and while I have a couple of riding jerseys, I personally feel that overweight guys in tech jerseys look really stupid (My own self image anyway), so weather permitting I have a few thin base layer merino wool long sleeves that I swap out instead, and they certainly seem to perform much better.
 
Don't underestimate the comfort afforded be cutting wind from blowing into your ears. Foam ear plugs don't block all sound by the way, they just cut it down by a percentage. I can still easily hear conversation etc. Insert less into ear canal to get less percentage reduction.

Beige color can be had from drug store chains. And they take a little getting use to for some people.
This was a serious problem for me back in my MC touring days. I have ear problems. Even with expensive helmets the wind noise drove me mad. A couple hours was bearable but on all day stretches ... intolerable. I finally solved it with the foam plugs ... deeply inserted and the wax plugs on top of that. I could still hear but you had to definitely speak up if you wanted me to understand you. 🤣
 
Pedaling technique makes a HUGE difference in range with hills and climbs. The pros focus on 7-O-clock to 10-O-clock. That is from the drive side perspective. It is the back sweep and up sweep part of the stroke. It makes pedaling like swimming, not stair climbing. This prevents spikes in the controller's requests for power, so its draw is low and steady. Speed, efficiency, range are improved significantly while lessening rider fatigue and potential knee issues. Smooth pedaling feels so good when you get it. Suddenly cadence jumps up even at low electrical assistance levels while in a high gear. Speed becomes easy. Grippy pedals are almost as good as being clipped in, which is not required.
Gets back to Stefans post about spinning. As regards power consumption ... Because I'm caught up in the throes of moving I've just been doing short hops around the ranch here. Lots of turns, u turns and just generally pooping about. But last night I ventured further out and decided to make some observations on some longer uninterrupted legs. Cruising along in the upper teens I could see that when my cadence got into the mid 70s the power usage dropped to a minuscule portion of the readout on the display. Surprised me.
 
Gets back to Stefans post about spinning. As regards power consumption ... Because I'm caught up in the throes of moving I've just been doing short hops around the ranch here. Lots of turns, u turns and just generally pooping about. But last night I ventured further out and decided to make some observations on some longer uninterrupted legs. Cruising along in the upper teens I could see that when my cadence got into the mid 70s the power usage dropped to a minuscule portion of the readout on the display. Surprised me.
Just wondering; did you try the 7-10 O-clock focus yet on the back and upsweep? It is so cool when the feeling hits. It is like swimming with flippers.
 
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what is this "wind and Climbs"?
It is a very funny answer and I like humor! Good stuff.
I went up to that developmental stage but with KW HDs in my case. You get there and then say 'What's next.' That is when you start the art of subtraction. Taking away stuff and shedding pounds to make the bikes better and better to ride. And they get really nice to ride, clean to look at too. You might not be there and that is okay. Be happy where you are. I get it because that was me.
My friend Dr. S. has a PhD in physics, one of two such eBike friends. He reviewed all the data sheets and crunched all the numbers, without ever riding a bike, and ended up with a hundred-six pound, overpowered 20" fat bike. He is a physicist and never considered the physics of the bike in motion, just as static data.
I am currently reading the book 'Subtract.' The cover is the subtracted form of the more detailed graph.
 

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we had some huge winds in portland last year when the fires had just started. it was gusting about 25 or so the new started riding but it got to 60 so much dust and leaves and such in the air. we were stopped at a light on our tandem and I saw this huge gust coming it almost blew us over 60mph gusts branches and trees down all over.
 
It is a very funny answer and I like humor! Good stuff.
I went up to that developmental stage but with KW HDs in my case. You get there and then say 'What's next.' That is when you start the art of subtraction. Taking away stuff and shedding pounds to make the bikes better and better to ride. And they get really nice to ride, clean to look at too. You might not be there and that is okay. Be happy where you are. I get it because that was me.
My friend Dr. S. has a PhD in physics, one of two such eBike friends. He reviewed all the data sheets and crunched all the numbers, without ever riding a bike, and ended up with a hundred-six pound, overpowered 20" fat bike. He is a physicist and never considered the physics of the bike in motion, just as static data.
I am currently reading the book 'Subtract.' The cover is the subtracted form of the more detailed graph.
I agree, for lots of folks but not me. The type of riding this confirmed country bumpkin does I like 60 some pounds of bike between my legs and lots of power and a big battery. Gets me off. 👍
 
Pedaling technique makes a HUGE difference in range with hills and climbs. The pros focus on 7-O-clock to 10-O-clock. That is from the drive side perspective. It is the back sweep and up sweep part of the stroke. It makes pedaling like swimming, not stair climbing. This prevents spikes in the controller's requests for power, so its draw is low and steady. Speed, efficiency, range are improved significantly while lessening rider fatigue and potential knee issues. Smooth pedaling feels so good when you get it. Suddenly cadence jumps up even at low electrical assistance levels while in a high gear. Speed becomes easy. Grippy pedals are almost as good as being clipped in, which is not required.
Dang, that's a wild looking bike she's got.
 
One high speed gnat in the eye is a killer. Glasses are essential, even when riding on the beach one can get you against the wind. Or while posing for a photo with a simulated beach background without wind, glasses are a requirement for dealing with wind and climbs. Her bike is just out of view.
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Oh that pic is so dated. She's not showing nearly enough flesh for the times. 😴
 
It is a very funny answer and I like humor! Good stuff.
I went up to that developmental stage but with KW HDs in my case. You get there and then say 'What's next.' That is when you start the art of subtraction. Taking away stuff and shedding pounds to make the bikes better and better to ride. And they get really nice to ride, clean to look at too. You might not be there and that is okay. Be happy where you are. I get it because that was me.
My friend Dr. S. has a PhD in physics, one of two such eBike friends. He reviewed all the data sheets and crunched all the numbers, without ever riding a bike, and ended up with a hundred-six pound, overpowered 20" fat bike. He is a physicist and never considered the physics of the bike in motion, just as static data.
I am currently reading the book 'Subtract.' The cover is the subtracted form of the more detailed graph.
jeez sorry im not as evolved as you and i likely never will be lol, not everyone is into biking for the same reason,not everyone is into the same bikes,get over yourself.
 
For more on the robot overlords there are a bunch of those face shield glasses on eBay. @ElevenAD, That we are riding is the important thing. I am glad that there are different approaches and who knows how mine will change in six-months.
 
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