Clean Custom Conversions

[PCeBiker]

I remember reading how the 700C measurements started going wacky when the racing teams started making their wheels a tiny bit smaller to reduce the weight.

They didn't want to get caught, so the change was barely noticeable, then everything kept snowballing into brand specific measurements and tolerances.

 

[PedalUma]

where the top tube would intersect the seatpost if it were parallel to the ground

That is how I understand it. For my 60cm classic Euro frame the seatpost is raised by 20cm and it has a long quill stem puting the grips at the same height as the saddle. After many years and miles on its coaster brake TS mid-drive I wore out the clutch so I removed the motor and now its an analog three speed. The only replacement motors I see are nine pin and have giant wires and a bunch of ugly connectors for things like a throttle from a brick of a display. I want a 4mm wire to a thumb sized display.

 

[RunForTheHills]

That is how I understand it. For my 60cm classic Euro frame the seatpost is raised by 20cm and it has a long quill stem puting the grips at the same height as the saddle. After many years and miles on its coaster brake TS mid-drive I wore out the clutch so I removed the motor and now its an analog three speed. The only replacement motors I see are nine pin and have giant wires and a bunch of ugly connectors for things like a throttle from a brick of a display. I want a 4mm wire to a thumb sized display.

You do a great job of hiding wires and I like the look. Like many here, I have the bike collecting sickness and enjoy looking at all kinds of bikes. With a hub motor with hall sensors and a temperature sensor, there are going to be thick wires from the motor. For most DIY builds exposed wiring is a reality and I like the functionality of having a torque sensing bottom bracket and a throttle. I could probably live without the throttle if I had to, but it is great for getting a kick start from a stop. There are some very small displays available if you are a minimalist and still want a display, but I use the CAv3 which is as ugly and retro as they come. I bought my kits from Grin before they came out with the Superharness and I think that still has some bugs in it.

 

[PedalUma]

This bike was handmade in England out of something called Reynolds 631. It is strong, lightweight, and provides a forgiving ride. Then I made it stealth electric with a DM02 and a T145 display. She owns a Vado SL and says that this one is ten times better. For some reason all my best bikes go to women. The display is to the left. It is also gravel specific, heavy duty, Shimano GRX and has bosses everywhere for bikepacking racks and accessories. Like that Felt, it also has a long wheelbase. In my opinion this one of the most elegant eBikes I have seen. And like Shaft is a badass MF that will kick the butts of any offerings of Specialized or Trek.

Reynolds Technology

Reynolds 631 is cold-worked and also has the advantages of air-hardening after welding. The alloy is a development on our famous 531 range with 10% higher strength.

www.reynoldstechnology.biz

Prospero

A hand-built steel city bicycle blending classic style with modern versatility, available with derailleur or hub gears and designed for confident, everyday riding.

www.pashley.co.uk

 

[PedalUma]

Jane just picked up her Felt and is super happy. That session took another 1.5 hours of demos and discussions. I have spent a total of 4 focused hours with her. No retail place would do that. Her bike is tailored just for her. I gave her some AA powered Christmas lights and we installed them together on her bike. It is now going under her tree, shared with her Petaluma sister, for Christmas morning. Then it is going to her place in San Francisco and she will show it off to all of her cycling friends while taking those famous hills. I feel honored to have been a part of this project and her happiness. She was ill for a year and this is her medicine. Epic rides, daily, with all the feel of a regular bike but with the degree of assistance she wants for any given situation.

 

[PedalUma]

This bike was an obsolete, unsupported, non-working Bionx. Now it is an advanced mid-drive.

 

[speedub.nate]

Now it is an advanced mid-drive.

Is that the BF02?

 

[PedalUma]

Is that the BF02?

It is a DM02. It is programed to be smooth for the tot and baby. Its top end is 864W of pull with a Class 1 speed limit of 21 mph. Being within 5% is fine to qualify. The sticker on the motor says 500W if inspected. But no one will stop a mom with two kids at 15 mph. Power delivery is based on torque input and cadence. The higher the torque and cadence the more power.

The obsolete direct drive hub motor was 16 inches across and the system did not even have a cadence sensor. Here is what it looked like with an 8.5x11 piece of paper for sizing.

 

[PedalUma]

I am finishing a Public R-18 with a painted motor and then starting on a Marin Kentfield 3. It has the same geo and groupset, including brakes, as a $5.000 Specialized Creo. It will beat the pants off the Creo. It is so subversive that I love it. I met a woman on the train seven-years-ago and converted two of her bikes. Then she referred a friend. That friend then referred this friend. The Marin is worth $1500 but only cost $899. It is a great bike to convert. I am going through frame.

 

[Chazmo]

This bike was an obsolete, unsupported, non-working Bionx. Now it is an advanced mid-drive.

View attachment 205027

Boy, you sure do a great job, PedalUma. Wish I weren’t across the country; I’d love to get my old Fuji Allegro converted into a road e-bike!

 

[Gionnirocket]

Boy, you sure do a great job, PedalUma. Wish I weren’t across the country; I’d love to get my old Fuji Allegro converted into a road e-bike!

They're really not hard to do if you are somewhat comfortable working on your own bike. The electrical part is pretty much plug and play but the mechanical installation of the components requires a basic understanding of working on bikes and tools needed.

 

[PedalUma]

Fuji Allegro

That is a sweet blast from the past. When adding a powerful motor it is best to have thicker and stronger chain and seat stays and solid axles are better than QR skewers. The early 80's road bikes tend to bend under pressure and the rear wheel slides sideways in the dropouts. These motors are powerful enough that the standard Nexus/Alfine wheel acorn nuts cannot be tightened enough to keep the wheel straight or they will strip their threads. Through axles are the gold standard for conversions. It is not like a 300w Bostch. These motors can be setup to put out almost three times the power.

 

[RunForTheHills]

That is a sweet blast from the past. When adding a powerful motor it is best to have thicker and stronger chain and seat stays and solid axles are better than QR skewers. The early 80's road bikes tend to bend under pressure and the rear wheel slides sideways in the dropouts. These motors are powerful enough that the standard Nexus/Alfine wheel acorn nuts cannot be tightened enough to keep the wheel straight or they will strip their threads. Through axles are the gold standard for conversions. It is not like a 300w Bostch. These motors can be setup to put out almost three times the power.

While through axles are stronger, it depends on the use case. In my experience, 10mm axles work fine for hub motors used on the road or MUPs. A good torque arm is important though.

 

[Chazmo]

Yeah, thanks, guys… I will probably never do it myself, but understood that MUCH would have to be updated.

 

[Gionnirocket]

My 750w/120nm Bafang build had QR and I was getting 3000mi using the KMC X8 chain.
12,000 mi on the build before I moved on and I never had an issue and I rode it hard off road.
That said it was on a pretty hefty Kent FS MTB

 

[PedalUma]

My 750w/120nm Bafang build had QR and I was getting 3000mi using the KMC X8 chain.
12,000 mi on the build before I moved on and I never had an issue and I rode it hard off road.
That said it was on a pretty hefty Kent FS MTB

This one prompted me to say that. The wheel kept falling out. One of my first ones was a BBS02 HT $300 MTB from Dick's Sporting Goods. It had QR skewers and did not have problems.
All Things Considered today has a story on a domestic bike factory. When is the last time you saw a domestic bike that was not a one-off custom frame.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Well there's different levels of quality... Especially on entry level bikes that these motors are set up for. I can see having problems with a lighter weight road bike. Additionally if you ride abusive, most all bike hardware won't be able to withstand it for long.

 

[RunForTheHills]

That's the problem with do it yourself. Most people doing it aren't engineers. Fortunately, we have the Internet these days where information and instructional videos are easy to come by. You will still get people building dangerous bikes and doing crazy things because it sounded cool.

 

[PedalUma]

I just made this one and finished the programing. It is a Public R-18 Disc. It has QR but I have done them before without problems. The bike has never been ridden. It was a pandemic bike and the owner purchased it for $100 at a yard sale. I put a riser and backswept bar and the rack.

 

[PedalUma]

She has been looking for eBikes for three years but to her they were all clunky and ugly. She rode it and is so happy.
I need to replace a torque sensor. This is nuts. I would rather install a new motor. This link is active for one day: https://wetransfer.com/previews/5a8...1dc219cef06d37e5bcd98e9eedeba1820260331004114