Chain Guard and Chain Tension Adjustor for Biktrix Stunner with 5 speed Sturmer Archer

bigoilbob

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USA
Caught in Catch 22 on both of these parts. Biktrix punts me to the local bike shop, who punts me back to Biktrix.

A 750 watt mid drive with an IGH really should have a chain tensioner. They pull pretty hard. And my wife is tired of telling me to wash my greasy right leg after every ride. Her Evelo Aurora mid dive with auto trans IGH has both of these parts. Does anyone have info on where to buy them, and how well they work?

Thanks in advance....
 
i am no help here but interested to see what you find out

think this might get more interest in parts/repairs or a different sub forum
 
Thanks vincent for gently reminding me that I made a lazy, silly mistake. I was in a hurry and didn't properly navigate. I will now explore the forums and aks my questions in the logical ones. I will try and keep you up as well.

Thx again...
 
Before you get down there, universalcycles.com sells them. You might be able to use a regular $7 derailleur takeup, but they swing in as the wheels swing down. A takeup stays straight.
 
Before you get down there, universalcycles.com sells them. You might be able to use a regular $7 derailleur takeup, but they swing in as the wheels swing down. A takeup stays straight.
Thanks indianajo, I'll check. But my problem - as I see it - is that the no turn washers for the IGH keep the tensioners from being pushed up square against the drop outs, and don't then allow the tensioner bolts to snug squarely on the back of the drop outs. Maybe mating up with the no turn washers instead would work, but since the tensioner protrusions that are in their to fit into the drop out slots and limit rotation of the tensioner around the rear circumference of the dropouts, are both interfering with the mate up between the tensioner and the no turn washer, and aren't big enough to enter the dropout slot (whew!), they just get in the way. The workable tensioner for me would have those protrusions out far enough from the axle hole to allow the tensioner to mate up with the no turn washer, AND be deep enough to penetrate the drop out slots. Yes, I might be able to MacGyver a product, but I thought that it could already be out there...
 
Perhaps the simplest solution to your problem is to buy a chain breaker & a master link and take out a couple of links of your chain.
Nothing really matches up in the bicycle world.
Mashed a derailleur 2 weeks ago. SRAM, but no part # on it per ISO 9000. I ordered one, no part # from modernbike, probably no dimensions on the SRAM website anyway. Came in with a 1.5" diameter rear wheel instead of 1". ? Made it fit but some screw against the frame is cranked way out whereas the original was all the way in. Had to shorten the chain. 2 days fiddling with it and gave it the 3rd & final (I hope) adjustment tonight. FIrst 60 miles I couldn't get first sprocket, had to push bike up a grade or two.
Front derailleur sprung in the same accident. No SRAM front derailleurs in stock at either modernbike or universalcycles . No part # on it. I bought a shimano altus front derailleur from universalcycles, 1000's of bikes have them, right? My SRAM and all the other 5 trash MTBs & 10 speeds I have the cable pulls down. This shifter the cable pulls up. I could send it back and wait another week riding on a WT Grant 3 speed with 3 lb cargo capacity. I might get hungry. Or make a bracket. 1 piece of steel cut out of a box fan, 2 pieces of textolite, 1" 1 1/2" and 2 1/4" long # 6 screws, 1 1/2" # 10 screw required.
Lets see - the headlight won't clamp on the handlebar, the rubber band is too short. I bought 4 different seats, 2 of them wouldn't even fit rails on my bike. My seatpost is not a standard size, it has a casting on the top with a clamp for rails. To use 3 of the seats I had to make a 1/2" post adapter out of a shoulder bolt 2 5/16" steel rods and 8 set collars. Vendors don't describe whether a seat fits what kind of rails, you have to guess from the picture.
Fender brackets don't fit, I have to make them out of wire from mcmaster.com . Torque arms you buy are weak cheesy short ****. I make them out of bed frame rails.
So anyway, an electric drill motor, set of drills, safety glasses, tin snips, a vise, a sabre saw, various pliers & drivers are required to maintain a bike. Or keep running to the bike shop and pay the professionals $$$$. In my case, push the bike 6 miles RT to the bike shop since I don't drive a car anymore. He doesn't work on electric bikes, never stocked a cargo bike except the schwinn 3 wheeler, and never ever had a bike my size that wasn't single speed, pink, with holly hobbie logo on the seat. I will buy tires & tubes from him. But I check every time now to make sure he didn't sell me another piece of trash limited to 40 PSI. Put that one on out at the summer camp, had to limit speed home to 10 mph to not dent my rim.
 
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