Chain, cassette, sprocket replace for 2019 FullSeven

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DanInStPete

Well-Known Member
I have around 1100 miles on my 2019 FullSeven 9.0. I measured the chain with a digital caliper and it is time to replace. I ordered, sized and installed the new chain, and then found some pretty bad skipping. So, time to replace the cassette and chain ring also. Seems I was remiss in not replacing my chain much earlier, or I should just wait until it’s unrideable and then replace it all.

I found the sprocket for $82 delivered from France. NX Eagle cassette $102 on Amazon. Chain $40 (I bought the GX chain). I need the Bosch Gen 2 lockring removal tool for $28. And a chain whip a kit for removing the cassette for around $20.

So, looking at around $275 to get it done, doing it all myself. Not cheap.

Are you guys replacing your chains often to reduce wear on the rest of the drivetrain? Has anyone tried using a cheaper front sprocket? There is a 5mm offset so I’m not sure how that plays out.

I do ride in some nasty dirt, sometimes mud, lots of debris, so that isn’t helping…
 
Thanks Stefan, yes I should have paid more attention earlier. Do you still have your other bikes or just the SL now? I sold my Vado 5.0 a while back and am considering an SL.
 
DanInStPete said:
Thanks Stefan, yes I should have paid more attention earlier. Do you still have your other bikes or just the SL now? I sold my Vado 5.0 a while back and am considering an SL.
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I actually ride the full power Vado, and Vado SL now. Do not have storage for more e-bikes now :)
 
Wow, that's incredibly short mileage on the cassette and chain ring. I have 7,100 miles on a 2016 Haibike Trekking and 3,900 on a 2016 Haibike Full Seven. New chains, but still on original cassettes and chainrings. Sure the derailleur cable tension was well adjusted?
 
Dan's bike has a boost size rear hub, so he needs a chainring with a 5mm offset. Also, Haibike uses chainrings with a built in guard which does make it kind of a unicorn ($$).

But thanks for pointing out to @Stefan Mikes that chainrings for gen2 Bosch bikes aren't necessarily expensive.

@DanInStPete yes, changing chains can prolong cassette and chainring life. A general rule of thumb i read somewhere is 3 chains per cassette and 2 cassettes per chainring if you stay on top of monitoring wear.
 
BlackHand said:
Dan's bike has a boost size rear hub, so he needs a chainring with a 5mm offset. Also, Haibike uses chainrings with a built in guard which does make it kind of a unicorn ($$).

But thanks for pointing out to @Stefan Mikes that chainrings for gen2 Bosch bikes aren't necessarily expensive.

@DanInStPete yes, changing chains can prolong cassette and chainring life. A general rule of thumb i read somewhere is 3 chains per cassette and 2 cassettes per chainring if you stay on top of monitoring wear.
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that I dont know about but I use a separate gaunt its actually the nut I got 12,000 miles out of my drivetrain and I think 9 chains and even then it was the chainring that was the issue the cassette may have gone farther
 
@Stefan Mikes At which times do you choose to ride the SL? I'm wondering about power. Florida is flat so I don't have to sorry about hills.

@fooferdoggie I found an 18-teeth version of the x-sync on ebay for $11.99. Is that basically the same thing without the guard? I need 5mm offset. Also what tool did you buy for removal?

@rich c I had a mechanic sort a minor shifting issue and he shortened the chain to do so. It's been shifting perfectly so assume it's adjusted correctly?

I'm seeing 3,900, 7,100 miles and 12,000 miles on one cassette and chain ring. In that case I wonder if I even needed to buy the chainring at 1100. I did it because SRAM recommends replacing the cassette and chainring with a new chain.

The new chain on the old cassette was definitely skipping in taller gears, which now surprises me with the miles you guys are getting. Are full suspension mountain bikes harder on cassettes? I know the dirt and grime is.

Thanks all for the info.
 
DanInStPete said:
@Stefan Mikes At which times do you choose to ride the SL? I'm wondering about power. Florida is flat so I don't have to sorry about hills.
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  • Everyday chores, such as grocery shopping. Car replacement. I keep Vado SL in my flat and it is always ready to be carried downstairs in one hand; no danger of theft.
  • Metric Century solo weekend rides, often involving mixed terrain (pavement, gravel, forest). I did everything to soften my Vado SL rides, and it is my favourite e-bike for the forest. (I also replaced the front fender with an Ass Saver to further "off-roadize" the SL).
  • Fitness purposes. Vado SL gives me approximately twice as good workout as riding the full power Vado.
I would have never taken Vado SL for riding in the mountains. Too little power!
 
Stefan Mikes said:
  • Everyday chores, such as grocery shopping. Car replacement. I keep Vado SL in my flat and it is always ready to be carried downstairs in one hand; no danger of theft.
  • Metric Century solo weekend rides, often involving mixed terrain (pavement, gravel, forest). I did everything to soften my Vado SL rides, and it is my favourite e-bike for the forest. (I also replaced the front fender with an Ass Saver to further "off-roadize" the SL).
  • Fitness purposes. Vado SL gives me approximately twice as good workout as riding the full power Vado.
I would have never taken Vado SL for riding in the mountains. Too little power!
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@Stefan Mikes I realize I’m off topic here, but I’m planning a purchase this week. Vado SL 4 or Bulls Urban Evo 10 Diamond. Obviously these are completely different bikes. I think the Bulls is a great deal for $4K. Vado competitor, but I had the Vado 5 and don’t want another one.

Anyway, I like the light weight, throw it on the car idea of the SL. Just need to decide if its enough power, without riding it first.

These were my Vado 5 settings:

Eco = 20/25
Sport = 50/50
Turbo = 100/100

I only ever needed the first two, and 85% I was in Eco. Is max power on the SL less than my Vado Sport setting? All my rides are fitness and recreation, no commuting, so don’t need a ton of power. I have the FullSeven if I do.
 
DanInStPete said:
These were my Vado 5 settings:

Eco = 20/25
Sport = 50/50
Turbo = 100/100

I only ever needed the first two, and 85% I was in Eco. Is max power on the SL less than my Vado Sport setting?
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Just multiply the figures by two. The SL TURBO is the Vado SPORT of yours. By saying so, I have taken the fact the SL is far more lightweight in the account too, so it is easier to start the ride from the cold start on Vado SL. And of course your Vado ECO would be 40/50% on Vado SL. Still assuring great range! It is because Vado SL forces you for more pedalling contribution.

P.S. The Vado SL Eco setting of 35/100% gives a very rewarding riding experience, offering you a bonus for your pedalling effort. Battery use here is similar to 55/55% but the ride is even more natural with 35/100!
 
That’s really helpful, thank you! It should be enough for me then. The only time I’d need more would be for an intense headwind, but I can just gear down and eat it. I’m curious as to how you’ve set up the rest of your settings?
 
I finally got around to replacing the cassette and chainring on my FullSeven, with 1300 miles now, and I ordered the wrong part from Europe. This is getting expensive.

I have not been able to find the correct SDURO sprocket online. Can anyone help with a solution?

FCC889A1-9EEE-40E8-BD1B-0E297E77C976.jpeg
 
@DanInStPete Tonight, 9 Aug, just to help, I was noodling around on the internet trying to find that sprocket. Not much luck, though. Even old reliable, RideWill in Italy didn't list that unicorn part.

But I did see what appears to be you on the EMTB forums, posting up for help. Good site, that one, too, like this one.

For your thread here, I'd like to suggest you put up your successful findings you posted there.....here.......so as to help others who have that particular H-Bike and they run across this particular thread. Glad you were able to get help from Haibike! :)
 
Mike TowpathTraveler said:
I was noodling around on the internet trying to find that sprocket
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Thanks Mike, yeah that part I'm afraid is not findable. Except the first place I should have looked, Haibike Tech Support. Though I gather they just recently got them, since I found another person who waited for 8 months to get his.

The sprocket has a 5mm offset, and the part number is 165901. I bought two for $117 total, delivered.

I just got it on yesterday. I had a local e-bike shop do this one. I wanted to do it myself but the tools I didn't have would have cost $70. The shop replaced the cassette, sprocket and chain, deep cleaned my derailleur and pulleys, and pulled apart the silver jockey pulley, cleaned it, and re-packed it with grease, all for $100.

Now, a new drivetrain at 1285 miles. Awesome! I will be cleaning my chain more thoroughly and replacing chains more often from now on...

IMG_3718.jpeg
 
I have cube 140 FS 11spd with gen 2 CX. When I was MTBing regularly would go through chain every 1200-1500km, that's to 0.75 wear mark. Always replaced chainring with chain. I was lucky with cube as they use separate chain guard so chainrings were only €10 from Bikediscount in germany. They do sell spacers but not sure about chainguard. This combination should work on Haibike as its same more and crank. Miranda make chain guards but good luck trying to find supplier.

Make sure you motor has rubber seal with silicone grease that goes on shaft behind chainring. Without it water ingress will stuff motor bearings. Seal should be regreased every time chainring is replaced.

If road riding can dig guard+chainring and use nut/ring with separate chainring, can't use it MTBing as chain bounces off chainring.
 
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