Brake Pads

[Latitude]

I just replaced my OEM rear Shimano brake pads at almost 8000 km. They started making noise yesterday, and they were worn right down when I replaced them today. Still worked fine though. There appears to be lots of life left in the front pads. Easier job than I expected!

 

[john peck]

I just replaced my OEM rear Shimano brake pads at almost 8000 km. They started making noise yesterday, and they were worn right down when I replaced them today. Still worked fine though. There appears to be lots of life left in the front pads. Easier job than I expected!

The simplest method seems to be to remove the brake & while holding in hand with cable still attached, change pads, 2 bolts.

 

[Latitude]

The simplest method seems to be to remove the brake & while holding in hand with cable still attached, change pads, 2 bolts.

I didn’t do that John, just removed the wheel. Then I pulled the cotter pin, slid the old pads out with their spring and pushed the pistons in. Slid the new pads with spring in, inserted and bent the supplied new cotter pin. Reinstalled the wheel. Brakes worked fine from there. But your way might be simpler than removing the wheel, at least on the back.

 

[retiredNH]

I didn’t do that John, just removed the wheel. Then I pulled the cotter pin, slid the old pads out with their spring and pushed the pistons in. Slid the new pads with spring in, inserted and bent the supplied new cotter pin. Reinstalled the wheel. Brakes worked fine from there. But your way might be simpler than removing the wheel, at least on the back.

The simplest method seems to be to remove the brake & while holding in hand with cable still attached, change pads, 2 bolts.

If you remove the caliper, don't you need to re-align it?

 

[PedalUma]

If you remove the caliper, don't you need to re-align it?

Very interesting. I have been using a paint pen for six-months and have been using it more and more. I will try placing three dots around each bolt holding a caliper, precisely marking its original position to see if I can reinstall it using those guides. I may not need to adjust it then, saving ten minutes and cutting total job time in half.
Some brake pads can be lifted out from above, most require removing the caliper and pulling them from the inside. With hydraulics I would only pull them so that I can lever the piston open without damaging the rotors.
Hey, I just had an idea and it is a real thing! I checked. There are little paint pens that have UV paint. So you could mark the bolts and no one would be able to tell unless they had a UV light pen. You would be doing the job like a magician wizard.

 

[Sierratim]

The simplest method seems to be to remove the brake & while holding in hand with cable still attached, change pads, 2 bolts.

John, are your brakes mechanical or hydraulic disc?

 

[Sierratim]

If you remove the caliper, don't you need to re-align it?

In my experience, yes. The dished washers in the caliper mounting bolt/washer sets and slightly over sized mounting holes allow adjustment in the X - Y directions as well as in what I believe pilots call roll. With this flexibility the brake pads can be adjusted to be parallel to their rotors. With the bolts a bit loose, the starting point is usually to pull the brake lever and tighten the mounting bolts. If the pads still rub I then do a combination of trueing the rotors and individually adjusting the upper and lower mounting bolts to eliminate rubbing. This can take a bit of time so I only remove a caliper as a last resort. I always try to clean and replace pads without messing with the caliper.

 

[PedalUma]

In my experience, yes. The dished washers in the caliper mounting bolt/washer sets and slightly over sized mounting holes allow adjustment in the X - Y directions as well as in what I believe pilots call roll. With this flexibility the brake pads can be adjusted to be parallel to their rotors. With the bolts a bit loose, the starting point is usually to pull the brake lever and tighten the mounting bolts. If the pads still rub I then do a combination of trueing the rotors and individually adjusting the upper and lower mounting bolts to eliminate rubbing. This can take a bit of time so I only remove a caliper as a last resort. I always try to clean and replace pads without messing with the caliper.

I often use the rubber band method, freeing up one hand. With a rubber band pulling the lever at just under 1/2 of normal lever force, loosen the bolts, turn the wheel as you slowly tighten the bolts evenly. The caliper will automatically self-center. Nothing self-centered about it. Then true the rotor low on the rotor 'spokes' and not at the braking surface. A flashlight, bike light or piece of white paper will help when viewing which side is rubbing. If you do not have access to a disc truing tool you can in a pinch use a channel lock wrench.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I often use the rubber band method, freeing up one hand. With a rubber band pulling the lever at just under 1/2 of normal lever force, loosen the bolts, turn the wheel as you slowly tighten the bolts evenly. The caliper will automatically self-center. Nothing self-centered about it. Then true the rotor low on the rotor 'spokes' and not at the braking surface. A flashlight, bike light or piece of white paper will help when viewing which side is rubbing. If you do not have access to a disc truing tool you can in a pinch use a channel lock wrench.

That's key!
To not squeeze the lever too hard... just enough to make contact is all that's needed and any more yields poor results.