Exactly. He needs the strong frame but not the high weight limit. Hunters have to carry back the kill. He will ride empty.I never saw the op mention that he wants to haul heavy items, just that he wanted to leave equipment and then head back home.
In his OP, he does mention riding back to the farm to pick up more equipment.Exactly. He needs the strong frame but not the high weight limit. Hunters have to carry back the kill. He will ride empty.
"...and then ride back to the farm to get more equipment."
I took that to mean other large equipment. If he just needed to carry bikeable equipment, I’d guess he could just load it on the same equipment he hauled the bike in with.In his OP, he does mention riding back to the farm to pick up more equipment.
He doesn't specify the weight, but farm equipment usually weighs more than a few pillows, so better safe than sorry. Getting something with a higher weight limit may even alleviate the occasional truck ride in the first place.
I assumed that "ride back" meant biking not trucking. I guess it's up to the OP to clarify whether he's gonna do any hauling on the bike.I took that to mean other large equipment. If he just needed to carry bikeable equipment, I’d guess he could just load it on the same equipment he hauled the bike in with.
Remember he wants to “strap” this bike to his equipment so you don’t want it too heavy.
check some video on the DClass i posted above, for what your doing you cant go wrong,that bike will eat any hill.We are on pretty flat ground, however I am close to some wooded, hilly trails that I would explore with the bike. As a bonus the trails are groomed for winter use as well!
I assume mid drive would be better in those conditions?
The bigger geared hub drives shouldn't have any trouble with a groomed trail, especially if you're giving it a hand putting some effort into pedaling. Noteworthy maybe, is that some bike manf's will often rate a 500w motor as a 750w. That setup may not have the grunt for some of the bigger hills, where the real 750w, one that's rated 750w nominal, would walk right up easily. A little homework there will may pay off for you - to decipher just exactly what the bike manf is offering. Holler here for help if you want to double check on anything in particular.We are on pretty flat ground, however I am close to some wooded, hilly trails that I would explore with the bike. As a bonus the trails are groomed for winter use as well!
I assume mid drive would be better in those conditions?
Often a farmer has to be a jack of all trades. Just use a bit on ingenuity; you´ll figure it out.Hi all,
I am new to ebikes so want some advice.
I have a grain farm that's spread out over about 10 miles. I would like something that I can strap to the back of equipment when I go to a field and then ride back to the farm to get more equipment. Basically I don't have much hired help so it would help in that way. I would also like to cruise around crop scouting fields, so I would be on gravel roads as well as rough tilled fields.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
Mid drives eat chains 2 to 10 times as fast as geared hub drives. Best selling mid drives lock purchaser into a patented battery that costs 3 to 5 times what my generic battery did, when replacement becomes necessary in 1000 charges. I put 4500 miles on a 1300 W ebikeling geared hub drive ($221) and when I wore that out, bought a $650 Mac12t 500 W geared hub drive. Watts above 500 on the ebikeling didn't add that much torque, just heated it up more. I climb ~80 hills on my 30 miles commute to summer camp, 3 of them 15% ~150 ft. Gross weight is 330 with up to 80 lb groceries & ag supplies. Both geared hubs would start 330 lb on the 15% and accelerate to ~6 mph if I don't pedal. Both will carry >15 mph up those hills if I hit the bottom at 15 mph. (Often I'm at 25 or higher from previous hill).We are on pretty flat ground, however I am close to some wooded, hilly trails that I would explore with the bike. As a bonus the trails are groomed for winter use as well!
I assume mid drive would be better in those conditions?
Joe is talking about relatively low power European designs that use proprietary batteries (and many other proprietary parts). There are other mid drive suppliers, whose numbers are growing quickly, that DO NOT use proprietary parts. Most of the Bafang mid drive bikes (BBSHD, BBS02, and Ultra), which also come with throttles, use Reention cases for their batteries, and they are competitively priced on the after market (NOT considered proprietary). Search Reention Dorado for examples. Do a search on Bafang Ultra bikes for some examples of the bike manf's that have gone/are going this route....Mid drives eat chains 2 to 10 times as fast as geared hub drives. Best selling mid drives lock purchaser into a patented battery that costs 3 to 5 times what my generic battery did, when replacement becomes necessary in 1000 charges. I put 4500 miles on a 1300 W ebikeling geared hub drive ($221) and when I wore that out, bought a $650 Mac12t 500 W geared hub drive. Watts above 500 on the ebikeling didn't add that much torque, just heated it up more. I climb ~80 hills on my 30 miles commute to summer camp, 3 of them 15% ~150 ft. Gross weight is 330 with up to 80 lb groceries & ag supplies. Both geared hubs would start 330 lb on the 15% and accelerate to ~6 mph if I don't pedal. Both will carry >15 mph up those hills if I hit the bottom at 15 mph. (Often I'm at 25 or higher from previous hill).
Most posters here equate "hill" to "mid drive". The one situation I know where mid-drive is required is mountains loading the bike down to low speeds, full throttle, for more than 25 minutes. Mac has said 25 minutes full throttle low speed on their geared hub drive will burn a winding. So surf to sierra runs in California, Oregon, Colorado, buy a mid-drive. Salaries are higher out there, they can probably afford it. My whole first electrical conversion was $840, lasted 4500 miles, and the $630 luna 17.5 ah battery is still good 3 years later.