thanks.
Best strategy for v. steep hill
- Thread starter tallenvt
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AHicks
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- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
If RAD said it would work, and it does not, maybe see what happens when you hold them to their word?
The step through RAD Rover has MUCH more hill climbing power, likely all you'll need. Maybe you could arrange for a swap, your 'City, for a new 'Rover?
thanks for the suggestion, but i need the step-thru design and cruiser type curved handle bars. am i on the best track setting assist at 5 and gear at 1 when i'm at the bottom of the hill?
AHicks
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- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Are you familiar with the step through version of the Rover?
Yes, you are on the best track with PAS 5 and 1st gear. The only thing that might work better would be if you could go a little faster than what 1st gear allows. Maybe 2nd or 3rd gear would work better. Worth a try anyway.
Yes, you are on the best track with PAS 5 and 1st gear. The only thing that might work better would be if you could go a little faster than what 1st gear allows. Maybe 2nd or 3rd gear would work better. Worth a try anyway.
thanks.
I doubt I will ever use one on my 2020 Rad Rover step through as it seems to do everything I want it to do as is. I'm curious though if all this extra power will wear out the motor faster.
AHicks
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- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Anything is possible, but my vote would be no. There's nothing in there that requires a lot of maintenance. Especially when compared to the rest of the bike.
A lot of Bolton's kit is about the software. Most would consider it a vast improvement over what the OEM supplies. Add the fact that riders can further tailor that to their likes/dislikes, and you have a pretty popular package even if it were not for the improved performance.
AHicks
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Clearly the controller is much more capable form a performance standpoint. It's able to let all of the available power through to the motor - easily, with little danger of overheating. The controller is no longer acting as a bottleneck restricting power flow from the battery to the motor. That's why Bolton's is faster.
ALL of the available power is not going to hurt that motor one bit - as long as it's not abused. With the power comes a little responsibility not to get too carried away.
Regarding the software, lets just say that after a bunch of first hand experience with both systems, I don't agree with your opinion regarding the software at all. The fact it's so user definable alone proves it far superior to RAD's. -Al
talevt, I live in NH, so not too far from you! I've got a 2019 RadCity and live at the top of a pretty steep 2 mile hill. I bought my RadCity when I was in Seattle last year, so I was able to talk to the Rad folks and test ride it before buying the bike. I told the Rad folks about my hill. They said that if the hill is steeper than what assist level three and you pedaling can accomplish, then you should get off your bike and walk. They said that if I didn't do that, then I'd burn out my motor prematurely. Sorry!! No good news for you!
Maybe the Bolton upgrade will solve your problem, but it sounds like you ended up with the wrong bike. Can you walk up part of the hill? That's kind of humbling, but cheaper than buying a new bike.
Maybe the Bolton upgrade will solve your problem, but it sounds like you ended up with the wrong bike. Can you walk up part of the hill? That's kind of humbling, but cheaper than buying a new bike.
Oh I forgot about this. Another thing low tech thing that you might try are thinner, slicker street tires. The tires on all Rad bikes have mountain bike-like tread, which has a fair amount of rolling resistance. Adding street specific tires, will really improve the bike's mobility on asphalt.
AHicks
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- USA
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- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Re: tires, That's a good idea.
I got tired of listening to the stock 'City tires and installed a good set of 26"x2.0" street tires. Noise is gone, and all else being equal, I can ride in the next higher gear than I could with the OEM tires. There is definitely a different in rolling resistance, even with the same air pressure in each.
Timpo, get back with your opinions AFTER you've spent some time on a direct drive bike.
Well, 10 years ago, i'd have said walking with the bike sounds reasonable, but i'm in my 70s with a ruptured Achilles tendon and a bad knee, so the point was NOT to have to walk up the damn hill with 60lb of metal. But thanks for the encouragement.I know you're trying to give him a suggestion, and only repeating what Rad Power told you, but walking up the hill with your ebike?
The reason why people get an ebike is so that they don't have to push the bike and walk up hill. I know many people who decided to get an ebike because they couldn't climb up hills on their normal bikes.
Not to mention ebikes are a lot worse to walk up the hill with, because they are heavier.
RangerDave
Member
For more info about your situation, how long and steep is the hill you are trying to pedal up? Is it 100 yds long? 500 yds? A quarter mile? The trip meter on your bike while riding downhill would tell you. Do you know or could you guess the elevation rise over that distance? You don’t need to be exact, it would give us something to visualize and compare to our own respective terrain.
RangerDave
RangerDave
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
there are always hills you can't climb. I hit one that was so steep that even with my mid drive on turbo and in the largest heat and standing up with my 180 weight I could only get part way up at 3 mph. I use walk assist to get the rest of the way up.I know you're trying to give him a suggestion, and only repeating what Rad Power told you, but walking up the hill with your ebike?
The reason why people get an ebike is so that they don't have to push the bike and walk up hill. I know many people who decided to get an ebike because they couldn't climb up hills on their normal bikes.
Not to mention ebikes are a lot worse to walk up the hill with, because they are heavier.
Timpo is right! Walking that RadCity up a hill sucks! I got my bike in December and was so excited, I bike commuted 15 miles most days a week in a weather be damned kind of attitude. As long as it was over 25 degrees and not actively snowing I rode the RadCity to work. I looked at the weather report every morning. One morning the weather report said no snow and I rode to work. Then by 5:00 pm things unexpectedly changed and it was snowing hard. A number of people offered to give me a ride home, but I said no, it'll be fun! By the time I got to the bottom of my hill, the wheels literally locked up because the snow attached to the steel spokes like a magnet. There was no way to pedal. I walked the bike all the way up that steep 2 mile hill through 6' of snow. It definitely sucked. That said, at least the RadCity has walk mode, which a lot of ebikes don't have.
Other than the street tires, I really don't see a good solution for you, except the Bolton idea. It's too bad you couldn't have test road it up your hill before buying it. Good luck my friend! I wish you the best!!
Other than the street tires, I really don't see a good solution for you, except the Bolton idea. It's too bad you couldn't have test road it up your hill before buying it. Good luck my friend! I wish you the best!!
It's a 1/2 mile long and I dont know how to figure elevation. Not like a San Francisco hill, but steadily steep--too steep for any hope of throttle assist.. i'm trying to find elevation on google map, but no joy. Thanks for trying to help.
Ah found it. in that 1/2 mile. the elevation rises 170 feet
Does that mean it's a 65 [degree?] rise? my math is worse than my pedaling.
Chancelucky2
Well-Known Member
I think you might have right numbers, but wrong decimal place. I get 6% grade 170/2640 , but that assumes that the slope on the hill is uniform. http://theclimbingcyclist.com/gradients-and-cycling-how-much-harder-are-steeper-climbs/ 136 watts should be enough to climb a 5 percent grade at about 6 miles/hour. 6 percent grade at about 12 mph is roughly 400 watts. If you're willing to go slower, you should be fine on your bike and that hill.
RangerDave
Member
170 ft rise over 2640 ft distance (sin 170 / 2640 = .0644) is about a 4 degree angle or 6.5% grade.
I think a geared hub motor would serve you better as it has much more torque at low rpm’s, which is what your situation is calling for. The motor shaft spins at a 5:1 ratio vs the bike wheel, providing lots of torque relative to a direct drive motor spinning at a 1:1 ratio. Not much low end torque there in a DD motor.
The step-thru Rover may suffice by itself or adding the Bolton kit to unleash the full power of the motor have already been discussed here, so I will not repeat those points. The Juiced Scorpion I mentioned may also interest you. Lots of info in YouTube videos. Also, I think Mr. Hicks has swapped out a DD motor for a geared motor on a Rad bike with an available kit, but you may need someone to assist you with these build-your-own options.
Good luck to you, Sir! - RangerDave
I think a geared hub motor would serve you better as it has much more torque at low rpm’s, which is what your situation is calling for. The motor shaft spins at a 5:1 ratio vs the bike wheel, providing lots of torque relative to a direct drive motor spinning at a 1:1 ratio. Not much low end torque there in a DD motor.
The step-thru Rover may suffice by itself or adding the Bolton kit to unleash the full power of the motor have already been discussed here, so I will not repeat those points. The Juiced Scorpion I mentioned may also interest you. Lots of info in YouTube videos. Also, I think Mr. Hicks has swapped out a DD motor for a geared motor on a Rad bike with an available kit, but you may need someone to assist you with these build-your-own options.
Good luck to you, Sir! - RangerDave
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