Best Shifting/Pedaling Technique?

[Sparky731]

Just wondering IF there was a certain shifting/pedaling technique that was ‘better’ to do it if it mattered at all?

Example:

1. Shift while pedaling

2. Stop pedaling the shift to the gear you want, then continue pedaling

3. Stop pedaling, shift to the next gear, repeat one gear at a time

4. It makes absolutely no difference how you do it concerning wear, tear, or slipping as far as the chain is concerned

Yes to all. Also remember to downshift before you stop and pedal a round to two to get the chain on the right sprocket. Up shifting while pedaling can be noisy, but shouldn’t hurt the components.

 

[PedalUma]

I was thinking of @Catalyzt this morning while pedaling. Controllers, that is a motor's internal motherboard, do not 'like' spikes. Today I focused on pushing the pedals forward at the top of the stroke and pulling them back at the bottom with no downward force. It was amazing. It removed the spikes and vastly increased power delivery at a high cadence. It also extends range. Just use your ankles.

 

[Kayakguy]

no you can get a simple bike computer to do it. wired or wireless.

And another way to do it: Pedal at a natural cadence (what feels right to you) for one minute, counting rpms as you do so (count full rotations, not each pedal stroke). Repeat this a few more times. Internalize the cadence you have pedaled at. I velcroed an old wristwatch to my handlebars for the timing. For me, this proved to be 75 rpms. I adjust gears to maintain this, and assist level less often, in fact seldom, unless dealing with a significant change in incline. 95% of the time I'm in PAS 1, while shifting gears often.

Also, I've noticed an interesting thing: when I shift up a gear, at first the pedal force needed feels heavy; but if I pedal forcefully for the first 2 or 3 strokes, the motor (Tongsheng mid motor with torque sensing) seems to recognize that and from then on the force required is much less (until a change in terrain comes up). That brief extra burst of leg power seems to awaken the motor to put out more.

Should mention also that I have a Shimano Nexus 7 igh. So shifting can be done while standing still, and while pedaling if I ease off on the pedal pressure, or pause it momentarily.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

And another way to do it: Pedal at a natural cadence (what feels right to you) for one minute, counting rpms as you do so (count full rotations, not each pedal stroke). Repeat this a few more times. Internalize the cadence you have pedaled at. I velcroed an old wristwatch to my handlebars for the timing.

Great way to develop a natural feel for cadence!

For me, this proved to be 75 rpms. I adjust gears to maintain this, and assist level less often, in fact seldom, unless dealing with a significant change in incline. 95% of the time I'm in PAS 1, while shifting gears often.

We ride exactly the same way. No agenda, just the way I seem to roll. Self-selected cadence was 80±5 RPM when I first returned to cycling a year ago, now more like 85±5 — closer to the 90±5 RPM of my misspent youth.

Also, I've noticed an interesting thing: when I shift up a gear, at first the pedal force needed feels heavy; but if I pedal forcefully for the first 2 or 3 strokes, the motor (Tongsheng mid motor with torque sensing) seems to recognize that and from then on the force required is much less (until a change in terrain comes up). That brief extra burst of leg power seems to awaken the motor to put out more.

Noticed the same thing on my torque-sensing hub-drive. After an upshift at constant assist, the bike and I eventually seem to come to a new equilibrium where we're both working a little harder at higher ground speed, but comfortably so.

To go even faster with less of a transient cadence dip, I bump up 1 gear and assist level at the same time. Works well on a 10-speed with 9 assist levels.