Battery Failure on Rize RX Pro

Peligro

New Member
Region
USA
I was riding in Mission Trails, San Diego yesterday. The battery was at 71%. I had been on PAS1, got lazy, used the throttle to assist me over the top of a small hill. After I descended the hill, I noticed the display was off. My power died. It wouldn't re-boot. It was a long ride home with a 70lb bike and no power. Today, the battery will not respond to the charger. I don't know if the battery has failed completely, or if there is a fuse that is blown. I am not sure what to do next.
 
I watched the video. I have the battery cap off. The fuse ‘looks’ good.
I am going to see if I can slide more of the inner components out and access the wiring harness
 

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Check the main battery connections for voltage based on if you have a 36, 48 or 52v battery. Zero volts you have an internal problem that could be a fuse or a BMS issue. If you see voltage at the battery you have another issue to trace down.
 
Main battery connection = the contacts where the power from the battery connects to the bike - on the OUTSIDE of the battery. See if you have power there.
 
i replaced the 10amp fuse. put the bottom cap back on the battery. took off the top cap, couldn't really get to taking off the wiring harness from the little mother board. everything is tight, and siliconed in. Its very well built. I got a feeling like i was going to win at blackjack. tried the charger again, and green led turns red, transformer fan turns on, and it sounds like its charging. Stoked. Plumbers hate electricity. Not sure why a fuse would blow mid-ride, and why the fuse, which is there to protect the battery from a surge during charging, would interfere with the battery, which was at 71%, from continuing to power the motor. I'll stick to plumbing, cross my fingers, and hope the battery takes a full charge. I will always carry a tiny phillips head screw driver and 10amp fuse in my bike tool kit. riding that 70lb beast 8 miles home, with no power was tough. Thanks for everyone's input.
 
Good deal. Fuses are generally more for a shorted condition than a surge to avoid a fire condition. There are slow blow fuses and quick blow fuses depending on needs. If a fuse problem happens again might be worth investigating why? Under normal use conditions we should not really have fuse issues on our bikes assuming something has not been modified with motor or the controller.
 
Edit: Found numerous examples of testing a laptop charger, barrel jack, with a multimeter on YouTube



So my Rize RX would not take a charge. I had dropped my charger from my work bench onto the concrete floor a few days before. Made the assumption that the charger was faulty and ordered a new one. Rize got one to me quickly. Same issue with only a green light. So I opened the end cap to inspect the input 5amp fuse and it had popped. New fuse and new charger works great.

I don’t want to plug in the old charger as it may be damaged from the drop. Is there a way to test it with my multimeter? It is the roun, single plug on a 3 amp charger.

I’ve added fuses and small screwdriver to my kit.
 
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Edit: Found numerous examples of testing a laptop charger, barrel jack, with a multimeter on YouTube



So my Rize RX would not take a charge. I had dropped my charger from my work bench onto the concrete floor a few days before. Made the assumption that the charger was faulty and ordered a new one. Rize got one to me quickly. Same issue with only a green light. So I opened the end cap to inspect the input 5amp fuse and it had popped. New fuse and new charger works great.

I don’t want to plug in the old charger as it may be damaged from the drop. Is there a way to test it with my multimeter? It is the roun, single plug on a 3 amp charger.

I’ve added fuses and small screwdriver to my kit.
sure, just check the output voltage of the old charger you dropped, that's what voltage and multimeters are for.
 
sure, just check the output voltage of the old charger you dropped, that's what voltage and multimeters are for.
Yes. I have an old multimeter. But wasn’t sure the + - of the barrel jack.

Just ordered a new multimeter. Time to upgrade my skills ! 😜
 
Newer voltmeters usually don't care. They'll show correct either way. Usually correct voltage will just be proceeded by a + or a -. If you get a negative reading you know your leads are reversed - if it makes any difference to you....
 
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