Anybody know how to remove my front wheel wheel?
- Thread starter Rocketbox
- Start date
FlatSix911
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Silicon Valley
You will need to use an open-end wrench. What make and model is your eBike?
Ok... I actually figured out how to get the wheel and hub removed, now I'm trying to figure out how to access the inner hub workings. It looks like there is a hub cover (see picture) that should presumably come off and reveal the magic inside, however I can't see how to remove it. I thought that simply removing the 3 retaining screws would allow the cover to just slip off, but no such luck. I tried using some large channel locks to spin it off, but no luck there either.
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harryS
Well-Known Member
No point in going inside til you satisfy why the motor doesn't work. Some covers screw on like the rear cylinder in the Martian capsules from the War of the Worlds. Those may take a home made rig to spin off. Others just use screws. You might have a Martian space capsule there,
Yeah, I know. I have the battery installed, power to the thumb throttle and that all fires up correctly. Next I was going to test the power to the wires that lead to the motor to see if they get the power expected. If power runs all the way to the motor wires, then I was going to look at the internal hub motor and see what that looks like.
It looks like the plate is on the side without wires, but from all the videos I've seen, people beat the axle on the side without wires to break things loose. Think I should beat on the axle or on the hub cover plate? Also, this looks like a 24v Outrider motor from looking at some pics I've seen....
Ok, so a wire question... I have a blue, red and green that comes from the controller to the front fork. Anybody know which of these wires is the positive or what the testing configuration would be with a multimeter? I couldn't get any reading at the fork so i was going to test at the rear connection off the main box.
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harryS
Well-Known Member
Hmmm, picture shows green, blue, yellow wires.
-DId this bike ever work for you or did you get it used?
-Is there a LED or LCD unit on the handlebars that indicates you have the bike turned on?
-What's not working, Is it a non working throttle or is it a pedal assist that's dead?
-Does the battery have a voltage marked in it? What is the voltage?
If ALL you have is three wires going to the motor, Yellow, Blue, Green, that indicates this is a three phase motor without sensors. There's very little that can be checked with a multimeter unless it can do this.
Sensors would require 5 more wires, smaller and colored red, black, yellow, blue, green. The first two would be 5 volt power, The last three are position sensors so the controller knows when to deliver the above three voltages. If the motor has those wires,( and you didn't show the picture), when you open it all you see for electrics will be a little circuit board holding three sensors.
First test. The wheel should spin freely forward with nothing connected. If it soins the same in reverse, it's a direct drive motor. If you feel a little more resistance in reverse, and hear gears turning, it's a geared motor. Now with the motor cable disconnected, if you touch the blue-green, yellow-blue, green-yellow, the wheel will be harder to turn in reverse each time you do it. That's a simple test of the coils. Then connect the cable and turn the wheel in reverse again. It should have the same resistance as without cable, unless the controller has a short circuit.
Another test is checking resistance, blue-green, green-blue, and yellow-blue. About 0 ohms for all three.
-DId this bike ever work for you or did you get it used?
-Is there a LED or LCD unit on the handlebars that indicates you have the bike turned on?
-What's not working, Is it a non working throttle or is it a pedal assist that's dead?
-Does the battery have a voltage marked in it? What is the voltage?
If ALL you have is three wires going to the motor, Yellow, Blue, Green, that indicates this is a three phase motor without sensors. There's very little that can be checked with a multimeter unless it can do this.
Sensors would require 5 more wires, smaller and colored red, black, yellow, blue, green. The first two would be 5 volt power, The last three are position sensors so the controller knows when to deliver the above three voltages. If the motor has those wires,( and you didn't show the picture), when you open it all you see for electrics will be a little circuit board holding three sensors.
First test. The wheel should spin freely forward with nothing connected. If it soins the same in reverse, it's a direct drive motor. If you feel a little more resistance in reverse, and hear gears turning, it's a geared motor. Now with the motor cable disconnected, if you touch the blue-green, yellow-blue, green-yellow, the wheel will be harder to turn in reverse each time you do it. That's a simple test of the coils. Then connect the cable and turn the wheel in reverse again. It should have the same resistance as without cable, unless the controller has a short circuit.
Another test is checking resistance, blue-green, green-blue, and yellow-blue. About 0 ohms for all three.
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