Any way to remove pedal assist? + pedal moves forward with bike

OK, what about this,..
It's stupid simple,..

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Just enough to activate the brake switch.
You can glue the strap to the grip so it stays put.
 
remove that box as in jiggle it around or unplug?

You remove the bolts that hold it to the frame then the box can move around a bit.

All the wires go into the box and they should have enough slack in them to push the box towards the PAS sensor to give you a bit more cable length on the PAS sensor wire
 
Your ebike appears to have a motor cutout on the left brake lever.

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Maybe just try a velcro strap on the lever until spring when the weather is nicer and you've got some time off to try and fix your freewheel.

That can turn into a major project needing special tools.


PS,.. I don't pedal either and I didn't hook up my PAS sensor to my new controller.
 
Or this,..




You can still buy wire coat hangers at Dollarama.
Thanks for the suggestions , im going to the diy store tmrw and going to attempt to take out the crank and pull out the cadence sensor ring and super glue or tie the ring to the bottom of the bike since i never use it anyways , as per your original instructions
 

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i have a problem amego infinite plus which is similar to the ncm moscow .. So if i walk my bike forward , the pedal also goes forward too meaning the pedal assist will kick in at the same time so im hoping to take out the chain tmrw and ride it full throttle without the chain..

im pretty sure my derailer or something is messed since i don't pedal i thought it'd be good to just remove the chain.. I want to disable pedal assist in-case i kick the pedal and have it throttle on me by accident , is there a way? thanks
i have a problem amego infinite plus which is similar to the ncm moscow .. So if i walk my bike forward , the pedal also goes forward too meaning the pedal assist will kick in at the same time so im hoping to take out the chain tmrw and ride it full throttle without the chain..

im pretty sure my derailer or something is messed since i don't pedal i thought it'd be good to just remove the chain.. I want to disable pedal assist in-case i kick the pedal and have it throttle on me by accident , is there a way? thanks
Just set assist level to 0 on the lcd controller when you are walking the bike
 
This sounds like a simple mechanical problem that any local bicycle mechanic can fix. A gummed up freewheel stops freewheeling forward, so the pedals rotate with the bike as it rolls. Or its broken and seized

Forget all that stuff about kludging the electrics. Wrong problem.
 
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Just set assist level to 0 on the lcd controller when you are walking the bike

I forgot about that option.
That is certainly the easiest thing to do.
I haven't used my Das-Kit Controller and display in over a year, but come to think about it, my new controller works the same way. 😂



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Duh,...
Just pick zero.
Even if it shuts your throttle off, you just turn it back on when you're ready to ride. (But I don't think it does.)
 
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This sounds like a simple mechanical problem that any local bicycle mechainic can fix. A gummed up freewheel stops freewheeling forward., so the pedals rotate with the bike as it rolls. Or its broken and seized

Forget all that stuff about kludging the electrics. Wrong problem.

The OP doesn't pedal or use PAS modes anyway.
Fixing the sticky freewheel can be an expensive time consuming PITA.

I remember when my idiot light for my antilock brakes came on in my Tracker more than 20 years ago.
I could have fixed it or had it fixed but I just ignored it for over 5 years.
I never locked up my brakes anyway.

Sometimes the yellow warning ⚠ light is just a suggestion.
It flashes if it's something serious. 😂
 
The OP doesn't pedal or use PAS modes anyway.
Fixing the sticky freewheel can be an expensive time consuming PITA.
Its a broken transmission. When something like that happens, its probably going to get worse ("freewheeling forward" comes to mind if a pawl sticks in the other position).

Smart move it to fix the problem not cripple it further.
 
Sometimes the yellow warning ⚠ light is just a suggestion.
It flashes if it's something serious. 😂
Reminds me of how, when the Ford Crown Victoria (aka taxicab or police cruiser) reaches 300,000 miles, that is the time to put a new piece of electrical tape over the 'check engine' light.

The diff between the bike and the Crown Vic is its a good move to do on the car but not the bike.
 
Its a broken transmission. When something like that happens, its probably going to get worse ("freewheeling forward" comes to mind if a pawl sticks in the other position).

Smart move it to fix the problem not cripple it further.

The OP is more than willing to remove the chain to fix the bike to his satisfaction.
He doesn't pedal anyway and it's the PAS modes that are making his ebike dangerous.

He's a delivery person in Toronto. That's Canada equivalent of what's going on in NYC, including to some extent battery fires.


His ebike is a tool used perform his job.
If that tool is malfunctioning in a way that he never uses the tool, then why spend time and money, and take a day off work to go to a DIY workshop in -14°C weather to fix something that he doesn't use anyway?
Just delete the offending hardware.

I don't have that annoying PAS sensor hooked up either.
And I don't want it or miss it.

The only thing that is different for me is that I can still pedal my ebike if I run out of battery.

The OP won't be too far from home base if he has any disabling malfunction, and I doubt that he'd ever resort to pedaling if he were to run out of battery.

The only issue is that "technically" an ebike is supposed to have a chain to be legal, but he could just carry it with the bike to be legal. It only has to be with him.

Maybe in the summer when he's got some time off and the weather is nicer, he might feel like "taking it to the shop" and freeing up the freewheel? But until then, all he needs to do is turn his PAS mode to 0 when he wants to walk the bike.

I hope he read these last few posts instead of going to the DIY shop today to remove his PAS sensor.

Note the dirt and rust on the screws and crank bolt on his ebike,..

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We here in Southern Ontario live in the great North East salt belt.
We spread salt on our roads by the TON.

Salt, sand, and salty slush gets everywhere and wrecks everything during the winter.

This is what my car looked like at one point a few years ago,..

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Not only is dealing with rusty s*it difficult and absolutely disgusting, try working on it outside in the middle of winter when everything likes to breakdown.

It's not about bringing it up to manufacturers OEM standards, it's about just trying to keep the damn thing on the road without breaking the bank or freezing your fricken fingers off.
 
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Two things. Get some 5mm shrink tube and peel the three wires back so they do not touch and seal them from the weather. Next the the freewheel needs replacement. That is why the pedals are moving when you roll the bike.
 
The OP is more than willing to remove the chain to fix the bike to his satisfaction.
He doesn't pedal anyway and it's the PAS modes that are making his ebike dangerous.

He's a delivery person in Toronto. That's Canada equivalent of what's going on in NYC, including to some extent battery fires.


His ebike is a tool used perform his job.
If that tool is malfunctioning in a way that he never uses the tool, then why spend time and money, and take a day off work to go to a DIY workshop in -14°C weather to fix something that he doesn't use anyway?
Just delete the offending hardware.

I don't have that annoying PAS sensor hooked up either.
And I don't want it or miss it.

The only thing that is different for me is that I can still pedal my ebike if I run out of battery.

The OP won't be too far from home base if he has any disabling malfunction, and I doubt that he'd ever resort to pedaling if he were to run out of battery.

The only issue is that "technically" an ebike is supposed to have a chain to be legal, but he could just carry it with the bike to be legal. It only has to be with him.

Maybe in the summer when he's got some time off and the weather is nicer, he might feel like "taking it to the shop" and freeing up the freewheel? But until then, all he needs to do is turn his PAS mode to 0 when he wants to walk the bike.

I hope he read these last few posts instead of going to the DIY shop today to remove his PAS sensor.

Note the dirt and rust on the screws and crank bolt on his ebike,..

View attachment 169899


We here in Southern Ontario live in the great North East salt belt.
We spread salt on our roads by the TON.

Salt, sand, and salty slush gets everywhere and wrecks everything during the winter.

This is what my car looked like at one point a few years ago,..

View attachment 169903View attachment 169902View attachment 169901


Not only is dealing with rusty s*it difficult and absolutely disgusting, try working on it outside in the middle of winter when everything likes to breakdown.

It's not about bringing it up to manufacturers OEM standards, it's about just trying to keep the damn thing on the road without breaking the bank or freezing your fricken fingers off.
I hate it when working under a car in the cold when a wrench slips and you bust a knuckle getting greasy, salty dirt into it.
 
I hate it when working under a car in the cold when a wrench slips and you bust a knuckle getting greasy, salty dirt into it.

The good thing about wrenching in the winter is that a busted knuckle doesn't hurt nearly as much when your hands are numb from the cold.

You don't bleed as much either because your blood is thicker. 😂

(I'm not kidding either. It's a noticeable difference. 😂)


Actually, my sister used to put an ice cube behind her ear lobe then pierce her own ears with a needle.
Same idea I guess?

I remember when I was too cheap to replace a torn CV boot on my car so I tried to stitch up the tear with fishing line and a fish hook.
I managed to stab the fish hook into the tip of my index finger,.. past the barb.

I used a needle nose pliers to feed the hook through my finger until the barb came out the other side, cut the barb off, then pulled the rest of the hook out the other way.

I wasn't going to waste 5 hours sitting in an emergency room for a simple procedure. 😂

I got my boot fixed though.
It didn't work very good and I ended up taking my axle apart to replace the boot properly.
 
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Had the chain snipped and should have done this from the start.. no longer am i burdened by the chain falling off all the time / drag from it which makes my bike alot more quieter / less heavy and seems to ride a lot smoother.

i stuck a flat head where the censor is and pulled it outwards the most i could like 1/3 a cm where i think the magnet connects to the peddle sensor to disable it.. not sure how well that would work in the long term because it could snap back in place any day but its working so far.. no longer do i have to worry about my peddle accidentally moving backwards / forwards because the chain is not attached to = less chance of me hitting it and activating the peddle sensor 👍👍

i already feel a lot safer walking the bike without holding clutching the breaks all the time now lol.
 
Don't forget about just simply turning your PAS mode to zero to walk the e-bike.
That should disable the PAS sensor too.
 
Don't forget about just simply turning your PAS mode to zero to walk the e-bike.
That should disable the PAS sensor too.

been doing it all this time but sometimes i forget as i turn it on and off all the time going in and out of places for deliveries.. this would easily be solved if they programmed it to be set to 0 instead of 1 when u turn it on.
 
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