Adrian
Active Member
Yes, in an ideal world.
Any RadRover contributors out there ?
- Thread starter Ericmacfan
- Start date
scmike
Active Member
Fj,
Looks like you've "stripped" the threads on the axle...ouch... the threads on the nut may have been poorly cut... and it looks like the inside nut is "cross-threaded" ... damn ! Did they try a better grade of nut and hopefully they have "sized metric" (should be an 18mm) wrenches in that shop ...adjustable wrenches are for buggering up nuts and bolts... New axle at least... shock lockout lever cap too...minimum... good luck..
Looks like you've "stripped" the threads on the axle...ouch... the threads on the nut may have been poorly cut... and it looks like the inside nut is "cross-threaded" ... damn ! Did they try a better grade of nut and hopefully they have "sized metric" (should be an 18mm) wrenches in that shop ...adjustable wrenches are for buggering up nuts and bolts... New axle at least... shock lockout lever cap too...minimum... good luck..
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
Well, a new motor should really solve your problem right?
Reading your E-bike saga reminds me of some zen stories.....
Phrodos
Member
I am zen incarnated. That reminds me of one of my favorite books of past, by the way.
That reminds me of one of my favorite books of past, by the way.
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
I am zen incarnated.
Book title: E-bikes and Zen.
- Phrodos
[ To be released in 2020.....]
scmike
Active Member
FJ,
I think the threads can be "cleaned up" it looks like the soft aluminum dropout is ground into the threads.. The inside retainer nut needs to come off... I think that nut failed... A machine shop should be able to replace it...maybe with something broader... this may be a weak link on all RadRovers??? Have you sent the pics to the RR team and if so what is there response??
I think the threads can be "cleaned up" it looks like the soft aluminum dropout is ground into the threads.. The inside retainer nut needs to come off... I think that nut failed... A machine shop should be able to replace it...maybe with something broader... this may be a weak link on all RadRovers??? Have you sent the pics to the RR team and if so what is there response??
Metalusion
Active Member
Sorry to hear about your bike Phrodos. i hope the RR guys take care of you and your bike! i have a feeling they will.
Ericmacfan
Member
scmike
Active Member
Mozo, USA makes/markets the forks... they're entry level... very heavy... and their usamozo.com website doesn't work... I did find a warning label on
the bottom tube of the fork... it reads, in part "USE ONLY FOR: Leisure cross country.... Do not use for hard riding...." basically everything else... You probably need to contact the RR team for a replacement cap/lever...
How many battery bars did you have after 26 km? I have only gone on less than 15 km rides and the batt. ind. still reads full but takes almost 2 hrs. to fully charge to green light...
Phrodos
Member
So, the Radpower guys really responded immediately and promised to replace both the wheel and the fork ASAP. Thumbs up guys - another gold star from me. If it hadn't been for the responses I've gotten from Ty and Mike, my feelings for this adventure would've been a lot different.
Luckily the guy at the e-bike shop managed to fix the problem for now (it cost me 100 USD - hoping to get those back). Here's what he wrote to RP for me:
"The wheel loosening was caused by faulty installation. The wheel was initially fastened too low in the dropout. The cause is hard to pinpoint. Most likely the "Torque washers" have been installed up into the dropout - or the installation may just have been wrong.
To alleviate the problem I used a file to fix the interface between frame and motor inner nut. A picture is attached, but the quality turned out worse than expected. The dropout was also filed lighly to fix previous damage from the loose axle. Then I installed a Grin Tech Torque arm rev 4. The motor axle is noticiably undersized. It should be close to 10mm, but measure in between 9,4-9,5mm."
And here's a picture of before and after:
I've now been on my first real test ride and everything seemed ok. I'm gonna tighten the nuts pretty often in the weeks to come, just to be sure. This should come as a warning to you, to be careful on your first runs with the bike, even though I think what happened to my bike was really rare.
But the bike is AWESOME!!! I cannot believe the smoothness of the ride and the power of it. I almost feel ashamed, racing by everyone else. I'm a typical Norwegian in the way that we don't like to stand out too much in public, but this bike will get (also unwanted) attention if I ride it too fast around the city. It's not really street legal, and now I know why.
To put it in level 5 is just ridicolous and not necessary, even here in this city, full of hills as it is. And I love using the throttle to set off and get some extra speed downhill. Doing it uphill was so fun I cannot believe it (and it's illegal - so I got to be a little careful). I've set the max speed to 29 kph, which is within what is legal and I think that is more than enough. The important thing is the power of it.
But the most practical fun of it all is how the bumps in the road just disappears with these tires. I already feel like I cannot go back to ordinary tires again. This was also the factor that made me buy the RR in the first place.
Now I have to dry my back, because it was wet and cold outside and the fenders are still waiting to be installed.
And oh, the motor? It's so quiet!
Luckily the guy at the e-bike shop managed to fix the problem for now (it cost me 100 USD - hoping to get those back). Here's what he wrote to RP for me:
"The wheel loosening was caused by faulty installation. The wheel was initially fastened too low in the dropout. The cause is hard to pinpoint. Most likely the "Torque washers" have been installed up into the dropout - or the installation may just have been wrong.
To alleviate the problem I used a file to fix the interface between frame and motor inner nut. A picture is attached, but the quality turned out worse than expected. The dropout was also filed lighly to fix previous damage from the loose axle. Then I installed a Grin Tech Torque arm rev 4. The motor axle is noticiably undersized. It should be close to 10mm, but measure in between 9,4-9,5mm."
And here's a picture of before and after:
I've now been on my first real test ride and everything seemed ok. I'm gonna tighten the nuts pretty often in the weeks to come, just to be sure. This should come as a warning to you, to be careful on your first runs with the bike, even though I think what happened to my bike was really rare.
But the bike is AWESOME!!! I cannot believe the smoothness of the ride and the power of it. I almost feel ashamed, racing by everyone else. I'm a typical Norwegian in the way that we don't like to stand out too much in public, but this bike will get (also unwanted) attention if I ride it too fast around the city. It's not really street legal, and now I know why.
To put it in level 5 is just ridicolous and not necessary, even here in this city, full of hills as it is. And I love using the throttle to set off and get some extra speed downhill. Doing it uphill was so fun I cannot believe it (and it's illegal - so I got to be a little careful). I've set the max speed to 29 kph, which is within what is legal and I think that is more than enough. The important thing is the power of it.
But the most practical fun of it all is how the bumps in the road just disappears with these tires. I already feel like I cannot go back to ordinary tires again. This was also the factor that made me buy the RR in the first place.
Now I have to dry my back, because it was wet and cold outside and the fenders are still waiting to be installed.
And oh, the motor? It's so quiet!
Last edited:
Ericmacfan
Member
I had 4 bars left on the display.
Today I rode approx 40 kilometers and came back with still 3 bars. (mind you during the ride it showed 2 bars left at some point)
I love the power and the comfort of this bike !
Beside the weight when you need to park or maneuver.
I hope i will be able to get the replacement lever from the RAD team…
Phrodos
Member
Phrodos
Member
I just realized that I will need to remove the battery every time I park in the city, to be sure not some idiot turns on the battery - and the bike - and uses the throttle, with the lock still through the wheel. I cannot ride it into town and park it on a friday night. Really wish the battery (or the panel) could be turned off with a key too. But you can't always get it all, can you.
pxpaulx
Well-Known Member
100% agree on that one, think it would've been best to integrate into the key lock on the battery - one to lock, two to lock and turn on.
Phrodos
Member
Yep, the battery manufacturer should have made that possible for sure. Strange really. My cheap EcoRide e-bike have one key to lock the battery to the frame and one to turn on the power. That's the one thing I really like about that bike, as with the fact that is has an Abus frame lock as a standard.
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