Any RadMini people out there
- Thread starter psychl
- Start date
mbirds
Member
So these tires were hard to seat properly. Looking at the seating indicators I could see part of the bead, on both wheels, was under the rim. I decided to mount them and see if they would pop in riding. Not a good idea; waste of time. The bike was cavitating because the tires were so uneven. So, a huge PITA, I dismounted both tires and noticed the stock rim strip was up over the rims lips in many places. I trimmed the rim strips, and remounted everything. I felt I could rule out the Mr. Tuffy since it was only on the back. I used every trick from google, including massaging, soapy water, and high pressure. The tires are 20psi and just before 30 they seated properly. It took a long time, the only silver lining is I'm growing more comfortable the the rear wheel situation.
Just tested the tires on a 5 mile grocery run with long uphills and long downhills. Because the tires are larger diameter I set the computer to 22" wheels and I have not yet compared to GPS. I was too happy just to be cruising to the store on a hot, humid day without being drenched in sweat. Good performance, a lot of cruising on throttle at an indicated 21-22 mph and I hit 28 on some downhills. The front wheel is really grabby on the sides during turns ( a feature they advertise), it's a weird sensation at first - almost like the wheel is pulling the handlebars - but I think I'm getting used to it. I think I'll be more comfortable with slightly sharper turns.
Overall, I am very happy it's back in operation and I'm looking forward to focusing on cargo options. I need to make some system to mount my touring bicycle panniers; they don't fit the tubes. Nick, I also like your basket setup. Which Wald model is that on top of the rear rack? On the front right now I have a GI toolbag bungeed on which fits perfectly with room for the rescue kit, lock, etc.
Just tested the tires on a 5 mile grocery run with long uphills and long downhills. Because the tires are larger diameter I set the computer to 22" wheels and I have not yet compared to GPS. I was too happy just to be cruising to the store on a hot, humid day without being drenched in sweat. Good performance, a lot of cruising on throttle at an indicated 21-22 mph and I hit 28 on some downhills. The front wheel is really grabby on the sides during turns ( a feature they advertise), it's a weird sensation at first - almost like the wheel is pulling the handlebars - but I think I'm getting used to it. I think I'll be more comfortable with slightly sharper turns.
Overall, I am very happy it's back in operation and I'm looking forward to focusing on cargo options. I need to make some system to mount my touring bicycle panniers; they don't fit the tubes. Nick, I also like your basket setup. Which Wald model is that on top of the rear rack? On the front right now I have a GI toolbag bungeed on which fits perfectly with room for the rescue kit, lock, etc.
Vlad in MI
New Member
Hi Marcus,
I bought a cargo bag by Driftsun. Not cheap, but high quality and so far I'm happy with it. I posted a brief review of it, if you are interested.
Vlad
Vlad in MI
New Member
Would you be so kind and share some tips on adjusting the brakes? Mine seem "wobbly", as if the disks were uneven. (Perhaps they are.)
Vlad in MI
New Member
I now have 100 miles on the Rad Mini. The more I ride it, the more I love it. It really is a wonderful bike.
mbirds
Member
Vlad - that bag looks really nice. I now have 50 miles on the RM, but 20 of that was yesterday and today. Messing with the tires had me down on fat bikes, but riding it is so smooth, I just go right over manhole covers, etc, that would have me dodging on my touring bicycle.
So, the brakes... mine pulse when stopping, but it doesn't seem to be an uneven rotor, because they don't rub unevenly or anything when not applying brakes... I have tried alcohol, blowtorching the pads, tightening all of the rotor and brake bolts, etc. The thing is it stops fine, so this is a little further down my list of tweaks to the radmini. I may keep an eye out on ebay for some Avid calipers or something. For adjusting. tighten the cable so it's just barely actuating the "arm" of the caliper. Then you loosen the two bolts for the caliper, squeeze and hold the brake, then tighten the bolts while holding. Fine tune with the barrel adjusters at the caliper or the lever. The inboard pad does not move on this model, so if you have problems with it rubbing, you can insert a thin piece of business card thickness material between it and the pad when tightening to create more clearance. The inboard pad can be adjusted with an allen adjustment through the spokes, but come "out" all the way as stock. Hope this makes sense.
I did the rear wheel coroplast fender. Need a few items from the hardware store for the front. The rear is super easy with two pieces and 7 zip ties that I had salvaged from the delivery package.
Edit - sorry the pictures are so bad.
And here is the coroplast, enough for 4 or five full sets, could also be used sideways to keep bags out if the spokes.
4mm, Black Coroplast Blank Signs, 18"L x 24"W, 5-pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HU7LC2G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NElvxbV136TZW
So, the brakes... mine pulse when stopping, but it doesn't seem to be an uneven rotor, because they don't rub unevenly or anything when not applying brakes... I have tried alcohol, blowtorching the pads, tightening all of the rotor and brake bolts, etc. The thing is it stops fine, so this is a little further down my list of tweaks to the radmini. I may keep an eye out on ebay for some Avid calipers or something. For adjusting. tighten the cable so it's just barely actuating the "arm" of the caliper. Then you loosen the two bolts for the caliper, squeeze and hold the brake, then tighten the bolts while holding. Fine tune with the barrel adjusters at the caliper or the lever. The inboard pad does not move on this model, so if you have problems with it rubbing, you can insert a thin piece of business card thickness material between it and the pad when tightening to create more clearance. The inboard pad can be adjusted with an allen adjustment through the spokes, but come "out" all the way as stock. Hope this makes sense.
I did the rear wheel coroplast fender. Need a few items from the hardware store for the front. The rear is super easy with two pieces and 7 zip ties that I had salvaged from the delivery package.
Edit - sorry the pictures are so bad.
And here is the coroplast, enough for 4 or five full sets, could also be used sideways to keep bags out if the spokes.
4mm, Black Coroplast Blank Signs, 18"L x 24"W, 5-pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HU7LC2G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NElvxbV136TZW
Attachments
Last edited:
NinjaNick
Member
Hey Marcus, the rear basket I use is:
http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Rack-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
I attach the wald basket directly to the Sunlite basket after its installed with the mounts it came with. I use these hose clamps:
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Bra...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I have almost 100 miles now, after changing out the spacer for the smaller one.....the ride has gotten even better!
Really like the fender and the new tires plus your great review on them. It made me want to rethink the cheap tires I got from amazon and maybe look for something Schwable makes?
http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Rack-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
I attach the wald basket directly to the Sunlite basket after its installed with the mounts it came with. I use these hose clamps:
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Bra...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
I have almost 100 miles now, after changing out the spacer for the smaller one.....the ride has gotten even better!
Really like the fender and the new tires plus your great review on them. It made me want to rethink the cheap tires I got from amazon and maybe look for something Schwable makes?
mbirds
Member
That's a nice cargo setup. So many options for these racks, I think people tend to overlook the 100lb cargo capacity for average sized riders (60r/40f if rider is 175 or less). Folding-mini-cargo-fatbike-electric.
Takes me back to my previous ebike in 2005, I think, which was a steel trek MTB with an Extracycle long wheelbase cargo attachment and a front brushed hub motor. It was great except I hated the SLA batteries. I eventually tried a nimh 48v pack at the time and it melted while charging in my garage, and I gave up until now and stuck to regular bikes.
The mini's wheelbase seems pretty long and mine was rock steady with some groceries just strapped on top of the rear rack, and I carry about 5lbs of tools and locks on the front at all times. How did it handle with a dog in the back?
I have 4 panniers already and it would be pretty sweet to mount them front and back for grocery runs. I hate taking my car on 5 mi roundtrips, and my neighborhood is pretty bike friendly with slow traffic.
Question for radmini or radrover owners': I was riding at night and fumbling with the buttons on the computer and somehow it started displaying average speed and max speed. I'm not sure how I did it and it doesn't seem to be in the instructions. Anyone know?
Also, with these tires and the computer set to a wheel of 22 inches, it matches my gps app very closely, better than with it set to 20. The tires are 5-20psi and I've been running at 15 (i think, the range on my pressure gauges is too high) and it feels really good. 20 seemed too hard, which is strange, but I'm new to fat tires. The stock tires seemes to feel good at 25 or 30. Watt hours used by my inexact calculations are about the same, but the bike definitely has a different feel with better traction on pavement as you'd expect. I would say the stock tires are OK if you replace the tubes and check the rim strip. They weigh similar to the Vees, I think.
Vlad, when I get a chance I'm going to try a different front brake rotor as a test. I have a couple of old ones in my parts, but they might also be bent, but I want to see if they act differently to troubleshoot before I buy more stuff. I should try before I change the freewheel to save a possible extra wheel removal.
Takes me back to my previous ebike in 2005, I think, which was a steel trek MTB with an Extracycle long wheelbase cargo attachment and a front brushed hub motor. It was great except I hated the SLA batteries. I eventually tried a nimh 48v pack at the time and it melted while charging in my garage, and I gave up until now and stuck to regular bikes.
The mini's wheelbase seems pretty long and mine was rock steady with some groceries just strapped on top of the rear rack, and I carry about 5lbs of tools and locks on the front at all times. How did it handle with a dog in the back?
I have 4 panniers already and it would be pretty sweet to mount them front and back for grocery runs. I hate taking my car on 5 mi roundtrips, and my neighborhood is pretty bike friendly with slow traffic.
Question for radmini or radrover owners': I was riding at night and fumbling with the buttons on the computer and somehow it started displaying average speed and max speed. I'm not sure how I did it and it doesn't seem to be in the instructions. Anyone know?
Also, with these tires and the computer set to a wheel of 22 inches, it matches my gps app very closely, better than with it set to 20. The tires are 5-20psi and I've been running at 15 (i think, the range on my pressure gauges is too high) and it feels really good. 20 seemed too hard, which is strange, but I'm new to fat tires. The stock tires seemes to feel good at 25 or 30. Watt hours used by my inexact calculations are about the same, but the bike definitely has a different feel with better traction on pavement as you'd expect. I would say the stock tires are OK if you replace the tubes and check the rim strip. They weigh similar to the Vees, I think.
Vlad, when I get a chance I'm going to try a different front brake rotor as a test. I have a couple of old ones in my parts, but they might also be bent, but I want to see if they act differently to troubleshoot before I buy more stuff. I should try before I change the freewheel to save a possible extra wheel removal.
Last edited:
Metalusion
Active Member
can anyone comment on the torque. it's rated at 90nm which is twice that of the Radrover. does it seem like it has monster power in the torque dept? does it make you ride any differently up a hill? take on steep hills that you've been afraid of previously?
mbirds
Member
I can compare a hill... there's one that has me pushing pretty hard on a road bike, maybe lowest gear in the middle ring or even into the smallest ring on front, and the Radmini cruises up it on throttle at 15mph,and you can hear the motor working harder, I usually help it.
Climbs my short, steep driveway on low throttle no problem, but you can hear it working hard.
I haven't had any complaints about hills, but it's my only ebike. It does heaps better than the old gearless hub I mentioned above. Again I'm 165lb
If I could have more speed or climbing power I would choose speed... but I wouldn't give up any of the torque for more speed. Seems about right. My old ebike would do 27 or so (it was throttle only) , but I like this better.
Climbs my short, steep driveway on low throttle no problem, but you can hear it working hard.
I haven't had any complaints about hills, but it's my only ebike. It does heaps better than the old gearless hub I mentioned above. Again I'm 165lb
If I could have more speed or climbing power I would choose speed... but I wouldn't give up any of the torque for more speed. Seems about right. My old ebike would do 27 or so (it was throttle only) , but I like this better.
Last edited:
Metalusion
Active Member
so if i'm understanding this correctly since torque doesn't really get you top speed but rather more pulling power up the hill. i'm nearer to 270lb, so the bike's got much more work to do going up the hill. do you feel the radmini is up to the task? if you added more weight like bags of groceries etc does it feel any different?
thanks
NinjaNick
Member
I think you would be at the upper limit of this bike. My guess would be on a steep hill you can expect 8 miles an hour which would still be way faster then you pedaling a normal fat bike up that incline. This is the first hub powered bike that has brought me this much comfort on climbs. Also as stated many times about this style of bike, 20 MPH top speed is pretty awesome and consistent.
Metalusion
Active Member
the folding aspect to this bike is definitely what I want. I already own a RadRover and the power of the motor is fine. I'm interested in this because of the folding aspect and the increased torque
mbirds
Member
Here's my homemade front fender. It's kinda ugly, but could be worse. Used coroplast, steel rod from the hw store, about the thickness of a coat hanger, brass tube, an L bracket, and zip ties. Plus a little epoxy to keep the brass tube from sliding. I'm going to add a mud flap made from the old innertube. This is very lightweight. The curvature is not perfect, as you can see, but it should do the job. Plenty of foot clearance. If they ever sell a real front fender with good coverage I'll buy it just for looks. The other day I rode through a puddle and got a face full of spray so I made this a priority. Next step, freewheel and messing with brakes.
As you can see I purchased the driftsun pack that Vlad recommended, it's like it was made for this bike. Superb.
As you can see I purchased the driftsun pack that Vlad recommended, it's like it was made for this bike. Superb.
Attachments
mbirds
Member
Took the mini for a spin to see how the fenders held up... great, no issues. But 5 miles out there was a little pop and the motor stopped working. Left a message with Rad tech support. 5 miles in the sun with no motor turns the mini into a pig, but it coasts nicely on any slight downhill.
I suspect the controller died as in the other report. There was still power to the computer. When I got home I opened up the hatch and the controller was very hot. If that's the problem, I hope the replacement is more robust.
I suspect the controller died as in the other report. There was still power to the computer. When I got home I opened up the hatch and the controller was very hot. If that's the problem, I hope the replacement is more robust.
mbirds
Member
UPDATE: I spoke to Rad and after a few questions they are sending a new controller. I told them I was concerned about having the same problem, and they said these have improved MOSFETS. Good customer service. Bad MOSFETS seems to be a problem that is not unique to Rad but has also surfaced with some other ebikes.
I took the few days of down time to mess with the freewheel... I hack sawed a slot into my tool, but now it flexes enough to skip and not grip the freewheel. Sigh. Ordered another tool and will see if it happens to fit; if not, out comes the soldering iron, or I may see if the LBS can do a quick destructive removal for me; I couldn't get anything to grip the divots for a destructive removal.
BTW both brake rotors are 180mm on my radmini, contrary to the posted specs saying 180/160. Guess that's why I have no problem locking out and skidding the back wheel with the new tires. Also I think I mistakenly wrote they were 170mm. I'm trying new rotors in an attempt to get rid of the brake vibration, since I have the wheel off anyway for freewheel antics.
I took the few days of down time to mess with the freewheel... I hack sawed a slot into my tool, but now it flexes enough to skip and not grip the freewheel. Sigh. Ordered another tool and will see if it happens to fit; if not, out comes the soldering iron, or I may see if the LBS can do a quick destructive removal for me; I couldn't get anything to grip the divots for a destructive removal.
BTW both brake rotors are 180mm on my radmini, contrary to the posted specs saying 180/160. Guess that's why I have no problem locking out and skidding the back wheel with the new tires. Also I think I mistakenly wrote they were 170mm. I'm trying new rotors in an attempt to get rid of the brake vibration, since I have the wheel off anyway for freewheel antics.
mbirds
Member
Thanks Scott. Unfortunately I had misinterpreted the photo and instead of cutting the tool into two halves, I cut a slot, so it flexes too much. I did try supporting it as you mentioned to no avail. I don't have a good vice or tools to go through it again. The tool I ordered this time is the park tool remover, going to see about the possibility of drilling out the hole, but since this is a one-time task the LBS may be a good option.
Similar threads
