A few drivetrain questions:

[Rich W.]

Not sure I really have these questions organized but they stem from making some minor mods to my Spec Tero, so here they are:

1. what tools are needed to change a cassette? I saw this tool today ( https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-Bike-Chain-Whip-Tool-Chain-Whip ) but I’m sure there is more to it.

2. What is a good chain lube and the best practices using it?

3. List of necessary chain tools, or can you add, subtract and repair with ordinary tools and master links (or whatever they are called now)?

4. I just changed from a 36T to a 44T chain ring. Some say it doesn’t need a new (longer) chain because its still an 11sp so an 11sp chain is fine. Praxis said bigger chain ring means longer chain (which makes more sense to me). However now it is hanging up a couple times while running up through the gears (but not down), ie.: shift from 5th to 6th nothing happens, click it again for 7th and it goes to 7th. Is this because of the chain ring change or a coincidence?

5. Does anyone have any good reasons not to change to Eagle AXS shifting, other than the cost? SRAM says the GX, X01, and XX1 all shift the same and the price point differences are in materials and weight so I’m considering the GX.

Your ideas and experiences on any of the above are appreciated.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

1. Why should you change the cassette in the first place? If you want to do this, it is the best to buy a whole set of professional bike tools. To remove the cassette, you actually need two tools: the chain whip, and a special tool for removing the cassette lockring. You place the chain of the whip on a cog of the cassette, and use the lockring tool to remove the lockring. Now, your cassette will fall apart into small bits and pieces...

Parts of a disassembled cassette after being washed in white spirit. See the spider with the big cogs at the right.

Basically, it is not reasonable to replace the entire cassette as it is expensive. Depending on the cassette model, you can just replace at least two smallest cogs, as these are typically worn. (Some cassettes allow replacing as many as four or even eight smallest cogs).

A cassette on the re-assembly, before the lockring has been put on and tightened to the spec.

It is reasonable to leave the work to the LBS.

2. Ideally, the chain maintenance process involves two phases: degreasing and applying the lube. I use a general automotive brake cleaner for degreasing, wipe the chain clean and let it dry. Then I apply a droplet of lube on each chain roller. Finally, I wipe the chain and let it dry. There are four categories of the bike chain lube:

• Oil for dry weather. It contains a little of lube and a lot of carrier. After the chain has dried, a small amount of the lube remains on the rollers, not attracting much of the grime
• Oil for wet weather, containing a lot of lube and a little of the carrier.
• Ceramic based lube
• Wax based lube

Personally, I only use traditional lube, and avoid expensive & overhyped ceramic type, and keep the wax beyond my sight so I am not tempted to use it anymore

3. You need the chain breaker for removing chain links. Buy it for the proper number of your gears (speeds). The breaker for 12-speed is pretty universal. The other tool that is very helpful is the chain pliers such as Shimano TL-CN10. With the chain pliers, disconnecting and then reconnecting the master/quick link is just a pleasure.

4. Technically speaking, going from 36 to 44T chainring requires adding (44-36)/2 = 4 links to your chain. Your original chain could simply be too long. Please check the derailleur cage position in the biggest cog: it should be at the 5 o'clock position. If this is the fact, no issue. If the cage is in the 4 o'clock position, please consider adding several links to your chain.

5. Sorry for a big grin on my face: Is your thumb too weak to shift via cable? No experience with AXS here. Yet another gadget to be charged at regular intervals? No, thank you!

 

[Rás Cnoic]

Not sure I really have these questions organized but they stem from making some minor mods to my Spec Tero, so here they are:

1. what tools are needed to change a cassette? I saw this tool today ( https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-Bike-Chain-Whip-Tool-Chain-Whip ) but I’m sure there is more to it.

2. What is a good chain lube and the best practices using it?

3. List of necessary chain tools, or can you add, subtract and repair with ordinary tools and master links (or whatever they are called now)?

4. I just changed from a 36T to a 44T chain ring. Some say it doesn’t need a new (longer) chain because its still an 11sp so an 11sp chain is fine. Praxis said bigger chain ring means longer chain (which makes more sense to me). However now it is hanging up a couple times while running up through the gears (but not down), ie.: shift from 5th to 6th nothing happens, click it again for 7th and it goes to 7th. Is this because of the chain ring change or a coincidence?

5. Does anyone have any good reasons not to change to Eagle AXS shifting, other than the cost? SRAM says the GX, X01, and XX1 all shift the same and the price point differences are in materials and weight so I’m considering the GX.

Your ideas and experiences on any of the above are appreciated.

You can't go wrong if you watch & follow the advice on the Park tools You tube channel. Used them when I swapped out my 11-42 cassette for an 11-46. Use them all the time if the bike(s) need adjusting. They seem to cover all bike mechanics on their vids and also go through what tools you need for which specific parts etc. Good luck!

 

[kevinmccune]

Ah, the 'Killer" mushtachio!( cookie duster, flavor saver, whatever) no disrespect the growth really improves some Guys looks( handy in cold weather too)

 

[Nomad]

Not sure I really have these questions organized but here they are:

1. what tools are needed to change a cassette? I saw this tool today ( https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-Bike-Chain-Whip-Tool-Chain-Whip ) but I’m sure there is more to it.

2. What is a good chain lube and the best practices using it?

3. List of necessary chain tools, or can you add, subtract and repair with ordinary tools and master links (or whatever they are called now)?

4. I just changed from a 36T to a 44T chain ring. Some say it doesn’t need a new (longer) chain because its still an 11sp so an 11sp chain is fine. Praxis said bigger chain ring means longer chain (which makes more sense to me). However now it is hanging up a couple times while running up through the gears (but not down), ie.: shift from 5th to 6th nothing happens, click it again for 7th and it goes to 7th. Is this because of the chain ring change or a coincidence?

5. Does anyone have any good reasons not to change to Eagle AXS shifting, other than the cost? SRAM says the GX, X01, and XX1 all shift the same and the price point differences are in materials and weight so I’m considering the GX.

Your experiences on any of the above are appreci

I have a bike with AXS and I can tell you when people tell you all three shift the same that is sort of not true. I can only speak to the difference between the GX & X01. As far as the derailers its almost no difference but it is there. When it comes to the cassette you should feel it. As far as the shifter I don't think so but I only the one that came with the Gx with a paddle upgrade. I have to say it and keep mine I own one THE PRICE IS STUPID! It is really nice not having the wires. For those that bring up the hole charging thing that is absolute rubbish! While it does depend on how much you use it including shifting. The charge intervals are far apart and and it only takes an hour at most. I chuck mine on the charger once a week just to be safe and that's after riding seven days. If you have the dropper, you can steal the battery out of that or buy spare. I let mine run down on purpose just to see and it let me know by sometimes not shifting but hit it again and it would. I as far as the chain go to the Parktool site and look up how to measure a chain for your drivetrain and you can also get the tools you need there. You don't have to get your tools there, but they are good source and I recommend them. I use finish lines winter synthetic in winter and have been using absolute Black in the summer but the jury not completely out on that and that involves waxing which is a whole thing in itself. There are plenty of good lubes made for bicycle chains just avoid sprays and strait up WD40. They do make a bicycle chain lube I don't know how good it is.

 

[Rich W.]

Great information here. Clearly my chain is too short, which I had surmised. I’ll determine which gear leaves the deraileur in the 1700 position and avoid going lower until I lengthen my chain. I cleaned the cassette and chain with brake cleaner so at least I did that right. I’ll get some proper chain lube today.

As to why the cassette, it will allow me to get my low gear ratios back after going to the 44T chainring, which performance wise has been splendid. 36 makes for a wonderful hill climber but is too limiting for road use and my riding is about 50/50 pavement and other. So far I don’t miss the lower gears so I might not bother.

Re: AXS, as I stated above looking for reasons not to use the system other than cost. The system has several attributes I like, and the price isn’t an issue. I just want to know if anyone has found that the system doesn’t live up to the manufacturer’s claims.

Thanks for all of the info!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

For those that bring up the hole charging thing that is absolute rubbish! While it does depend on how much you use it including shifting. The charge intervals are far apart and and it only takes an hour at most. I chuck mine on the charger once a week just to be safe and that's after riding seven days.

To each their own.
Whenever I come back from any longer ride with my Vado, I need to re-charge:

• The first battery
• The second battery
• Wahoo Roam GPS bike computer
• The smartphone
• Electrically heated boot insoles
• Electrically heated socks
• Whenever I choose to ride with a HR monitor, I have to recharge it as well (that's why I do not ride with the HR monitor anymore)
• (Some people use an external lighting and need to recharge that too, front and rear. Not my situation).

Now add the need to recharge the wireless derailleur? And yes, I shift a lot.

I can even not think of removing so nicely internally routed derailleur cable from any of my e-bikes... To gain what? One cable less?

Now, the internal shifter battery. Not long time ago, I discovered the button battery inside my e-bike display went low on charge. (This e-bike cannot operate without the display at all). It turned out I needed a rare 1220 button battery. Fortunately, I had a spare in my drawer; otherwise I would be in trouble. Now, could I risk the shifter battery went flat on my ride (even if that perhaps occurs once a year)?

I'm glad Nomad you are happy with your AXS. For me, paying big money, doing absolutely unnecessary labour, and adding two extra components of uncertainty would be just masochistic
Whenever I consider doing a mod to any of my e-bikes, I ask myself these questions:

• Will the given mod make me a better cyclist?
• Will the mod contribute to my riding safety?
• Will the mod mean less of or cheaper maintenance?
• Will the mod make me more capable to match the performance of my stronger and younger traditional group ride mates?

For me, replacing a proven and reliable modern cable operated drivetrain with the electronic one yields "No" to any of the questions as above.

To each their own

 

[Nomad]

To each their own.
Whenever I come back from any longer ride with my Vado, I need to re-charge:

• The first battery
• The second battery
• Wahoo Roam GPS bike computer
• The smartphone
• Electrically heated boot insoles
• Electrically heated socks
• Whenever I choose to ride with a HR monitor, I have to recharge it as well (that's why I do not ride with the HR monitor anymore)
• (Some people use an external lighting and need to recharge that too, front and rear. Not my situation).

Now add the need to recharge the wireless derailleur? And yes, I shift a lot.

I can even not think of removing so nicely internally routed derailleur cable from any of my e-bikes... To gain what? One cable less?

Now, the internal shifter battery. Not long time ago, I discovered the button battery inside my e-bike display went low on charge. (This e-bike cannot operate without the display at all). It turned out I needed a rare 1220 button battery. Fortunately, I had a spare in my drawer; otherwise I would be in trouble. Now, could I risk the shifter battery went flat on my ride (even if that perhaps occurs once a year)?

I'm glad Nomad you are happy with your AXS. For me, paying big money, doing absolutely unnecessary labour, and adding two extra components of uncertainty would be just masochistic
Whenever I consider doing a mod to any of my e-bikes, I ask myself these questions:

• Will the given mod make me a better cyclist?
• Will the mod contribute to my riding safety?
• Will the mod mean less of or cheaper maintenance?
• Will the mod make me more capable to match the performance of my stronger and younger traditional group ride mates?

For me, replacing a proven and reliable modern cable operated drivetrain with the electronic one yields "No" to any of the questions as above.

To each their own

I would have answer yes to some of those questions. I would also answer yes to the price being a bit unreasonable. I would also say you're not going to have to charge that battery every day even if you shift a lot. All that being said it isn't worth buying for most people. Sram need to keep improving it and lower the price at the same time. It would be nice to see how it compares to Shimano's new Ebike System?