A Day's Work

Molygraph, hmm. Only $7.99 at Harborfright. I'll be there! I'll be greasing my Teezer Dees,
 
Thanks PedalUma. I guess I'll just drop down into that rabbit hole, or should I say corn hole, of grease for a mid-drive. 😁
Some people swear by Corn Head grease. Here is one of my more recent TS builds. No zip ties were sacrificed. Going zip tie free is like skinny dipping.
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Well, that sure is pretty Pedaluma. I'm still building frankenbikes. Which reminds me that I need to go to zip-tie.com and reorder another batch.
 

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Well, that sure is pretty Pedaluma. I'm still building frankenbikes. Which reminds me that I need to go to zip-tie.com and reorder another batch.
Here is the one I am ridding today in a group ride with about 350 women. Then we will have live jazz on the river.
 

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Finally got around to putting a battery in the rather constricted triangle of my "a-day's-work" build. First ebike battery that I welded up. It all works, though I'm not impressed with a 36v TSDZ2b. I did learn something about batteries in this endeavor, so my building an ebike from a pile of abused used parts had some benefit.

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Finally got around to putting a battery in the rather constricted triangle of my "a-day's-work" build. First ebike battery that I welded up. It all works, though I'm not impressed with a 36v TSDZ2b. I did learn something about batteries in this endeavor, so my building an ebike from a pile of abused used parts had some benefit.

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That is the B motor. Just ideas of things to try here: You might remove the chainring and plastic cover behind it and pack the inside facing of the perimeter of the cover with grease. You might try upping the amps to 17 and disconnecting the throttle and wheel magnet. Then keep your cadence rpm to above 70. That is where it gets sweet. Grippy pedals will help too. Pull back and up, using your ankles and calves. Do not spike the controller with down thrust. Spin.
 
I have started taking a Vado home. It has an indicator when you are at a cadence over 70, it shows a green bar. Then you are good to go up from there. They lie when they say its 250W nominal. That is just for EU sales. And really wattage is a measure of inefficiency. It is like shopping for a car with low gas mileage. Almost as if a 1971 pickup is somehow better than a new Toyota or Honda because it burns your gas faster.
 
Version 3.
I put handle bars with more rise on them. Went on my longest bike ride with it to date and the bike handles really well. The rear roller brake is suboptimal at the moment. The Nuvinci 360 hub is great, though is doesn't have enough gear ratio. I absolutely need that 2 sprocket chainwheel that I ordered that, hopefully, is being shipped from China.
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I must say that the performance of the 36v TSDZ2b is underwhelming. This build was by design to be a lower power, lower speed bike, and it does do that; but my 250 watt rear hub motor Huffy Oslo kicks this bikes a**. Granted, I put a new controller and gearing on the Oslo, but a 250 watt hub drive beating a 350 watt mid-drive? Version 4 waits in the wings.
had a 350 watt md tdz trike that did well on hills,i couldnt get over the trike handling,got rid of it,,the next owner loved it.
 
Gromike
That is a sharp build, very nice spec's and photo's of the total build,
I want to attempt something on that order, but not sure if I can do it.
Question, What brand is that rear stand?
Would it work for 26+" fat tired bike also,
both of mine have 197mm rear ends.
Tia,
 
They also sell them at Dick's. It is called a rear MTB kickstand. Note: Mountain bikes never have kickstands. Would you want it to deploy on a rough downhill single track? That large sporting goods retailer did a video a couple of years ago to promote women moving up into management positions. It is called 'Chicks with Dick's.' You can look the video up if you are interested and want to find out more.
 
Gromike
My mistake, I am referring to the stand that is holding up your bike while you work on it, second photo in your first post.
Tia,
 
I have no worries about putting a kickstand on an old MTB, but I'm just trying to make a road queen off this twenty year-old full-suspension mountain bike.

My next build will be on this Gary Fisher Sugar 3. I'm planning on installing a 72v direct-drive hubmotor. That is, if I can figure out the battery🤓.

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When I bought the above bike, and a Giant XTC nrs, from the local non profit bike shop, the guy who sold them, as is, said I hope you know how to work on shocks.
The bikes that the shop fixes-up and sells carry a liability risk for them. And there ain't know way for them to fix one of these beauties up without a sell price that scares away customers

One thing that I'm finding out is that on a lot of twenty-year-old bikes there is almost no wear from use, and that the expensive bikes are more likely to have done their time in a garage. The rest of them eventually find their way under a tattered trap in the yard :(.
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Gromike
My mistake, I am referring to the stand that is holding up your bike while you work on it, second photo in your first post.
Tia,
That was a training stand sitting on the side of the road with a free sign on it. Took the resistance thingy off. A quite useful thing it is.
 
I think it would, as I have several extra inches of room when I put a 135mm bike in it. Whatever brand label it once had is long gone. This was a lower end training stand that sat on the side of the road until I picked it up. I was going to make it into a bicycle powered generator, but gave up on that use after I figured out what it was good for.
 
Thanks Gromike.
I'll keep looking, that stand would be just perfect for working on the rear end, adjusting a derailleur etc.
Tia,
 
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