PSA: warning about Juiced G2 battery casing

[Chazmo]

Hi gang.

Just joined and happy to be here. I live in central Massachusetts and I own a Juiced RipCurrent S (RCS) that I bought about a year ago. I adore this bike. It’s been transformative to my lifestyle and I can’t say enough about it. Thank you Juiced (R. I. P., Juiced) for building such a wonderful bike for me/us!

What I would like to warn folks about caused a situation that arose as a result of my riding through muddy/salty/slushy conditions. My 52V 19.2Ah battery has an exposed (unsealed) area, shown below, at the bike’s bottom bracket — when mounted on the RCS, that is. I’m talking about the 5 rectangle area in the picture which is next to the fuse compartment (which is sealed and is not a problem). I believe this area is some sort of charging port, but I’m not sure since it is unused for any purpose on the RCS.

Anyway, what I have done on my battery is duct-taped over this section to prevent contaminants from getting into the port. As, below:

What happened is that a fire started in the circuitry which ruined the battery, but luckily didn’t ruin the bike. I don’t think any Lithium got ignited, and I was able to quickly put out the fire which started shortly after I pulled the bike over after riding through some salty slush on the trail and then on the road. The taped-up battery shown earlier is not the one that had the fire.

A picture of the one damaged by fire is below. This battery is kaput.

Anyway, I strongly urge folks to cover over that port so nothing can get in the battery.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Hi gang.

Just joined and happy to be here. I live in central Massachusetts and I own a Juiced RipCurrent S (RCS) that I bought about a year ago. I adore this bike. It’s been transformative to my lifestyle and I can’t say enough about it. Thank you Juiced (R. I. P., Juiced) for building such a wonderful bike for me/us!

What I would like to warn folks about caused a situation that arose as a result of my riding through muddy/salty/slushy conditions. My 52V 19.2Ah battery has an exposed (unsealed) area, shown below, at the bike’s bottom bracket — when mounted on the RCS, that is. I’m talking about the 5 rectangle area in the picture which is next to the fuse compartment (which is sealed and is not a problem). I believe this area is some sort of charging port, but I’m not sure since it is unused for any purpose on the RCS.

View attachment 189121

Anyway, what I have done on my battery is duct-taped over this section to prevent contaminants from getting into the port. As, below:

View attachment 189122

What happened is that a fire started in the circuitry which ruined the battery, but luckily didn’t ruin the bike. I don’t think any Lithium got ignited, and I was able to quickly put out the fire which started shortly after I pulled the bike over after riding through some salty slush on the trail and then on the road. The taped-up battery shown earlier is not the one that had the fire.

A picture of the one damaged by fire is below. This battery is kaput.
View attachment 189123

Anyway, I strongly urge folks to cover over that port so nothing can get in the battery.

Welcome aboard! Close call. Odd that the designers didn't do more to keep the outside world out of those ports given their location.

 

[Chazmo]

Welcome aboard! Close call. Odd that the designers didn't do more to keep the outside world out of those ports given their location.

It’s weird, Jeremy. The battery is a wonderful piece of technology, but leaving an unsealed area like that (which exposes circuitry) I don’t understand. I also exacerbated the problem by riding without the fenders, so I partly blame myself for the situation. Easy solution though! I just wanted to let folks know.

Perhaps that “port” is a diagnostic port or a fast-charge port. The reason I think that is that after the fire the battery worked fine but the charger no longer works. Also, the plastic has a “+” and a “-“ on it. Anyway, I’m disposing of the damaged battery.

 

[m@Robertson]

Wow thats bad. I recommend you take a shot at upping your game on the tape. 3M 2228 'mastic' tape is available at Home Depot in the electrical section. Its official name is 'moisture sealing electrical tape' and basically its a strip of adhesive rubber that is completely malleable, so you can squish it down and into those holes and block them forever against anything. It might not be the easiest fit if space is tight, but you can spend some time working it thin, and then cover it with that same gorilla tape so its not sticky on the outside anymore.

Since Juiced isn't going to be selling any more batteries, I'm sure preserving what you've got is important.

 

[6zfshdb]

I would store that damaged battery in a safe place, outdoors if possible, until you can dispose of it. There have been incidents where lithium batteries ignited long after getting wet.

 

[J.R.]

I was thinking seal it with neutral cure electronic grade silicone, but the tape noted above might be enough.

Clear Electronic Grade Silicone​

Amazon.com

 

[Chazmo]

I would store that damaged battery in a safe place, outdoors if possible, until you can dispose of it. There have been incidents where lithium batteries ignited long after getting wet.

Exactly what I've done! Thanks! We think alike.

 

[Chazmo]

I found out what this “port” on the Juiced battery was meant for… It was designed so that the G2 battery could be plugged into their docking station for charging the battery and other purposes, as I suspected. The idea was a good one, but unfortunately this should’ve been done with some sort of sealed connector. Oh well.

So, FYI, the only information I could find on the docking station was in the link below. I have no idea if Juiced ever released this to the public.

Juiced Ripcurrent S electric bike gets big updates: Larger motor, docking battery, 'Race Mode' & more

San Diego-based Juiced Bikes already offered a seriously fun ride with the original RipCurrent S electric fat tire e-bike. But...

electrek.co

 

[spokewrench]

I was thinking seal it with neutral cure electronic grade silicone, but the tape noted above might be enough.

I haven't had battery corrosion, but I have had moisture problems in a Radrunner controller. It was the lowest thing on the frame, lower than the bottom bracket. Sometimes I'd hit the throttle at a stop sign and get nothing. I'd jump off and run it across the intersection because a single-speed bike would accelerate too slowly. There was never enough moisture to find when I opened the controller, but letting the open case sit in front of a fan cured it until the next time I rode on wet pavement. RTV cured it. The stuff I used didn't smell, so I assumed corrosive fumes wouldn't get into the case.

 

[Chazmo]

RTV cured it.

RTV? Sorry, I don’t know all the acronyms.

 

[spokewrench]

RTV? Sorry, I don’t know all the acronyms.

It's silicone rubber applied like grease. I started using RTV in 1973 to protect antenna connectors exposed to salt spray. I think it was decades before I knew it meant Room Temperature Vulcanizing. Some of it is a very strong adhesive, and some is easier to remove.

What Does RTV Stand For?

Learn about the benefits of RTV sealants that begin to cure immediately upon being exposure to air, hold their shape, and are water repellent at Gluegun.com.

www.gluegun.com

The Permatex gasket stuff I've used is a strong adhesive. I like to clean the threads and apply silicone grease before screwing the cap on so that maybe humidity in the air won't cure what's in the tube. If I buy RTV in a caulking tube, I'll apply silicone grease to the nozzle, cover it with foil, and clamp the foil tightly against the greasy nozzle with a zip tie, trying to keep moisture from seeping past. If I use it again in 6 months, I may have to drill the rubber out of the nozzle. A better seal means less cured stuff to drill.

 

[PCeBiker]

I think it was decades before I knew it meant Room Temperature Vulcanizing.

Yeah, I had to look that up when I needed "RTV Silicone" for my car.

It makes no damn sense.
All silicone cures at room temperature.
I'm not making my own tires, so I don't need to cook it to get it to harden. ??

But, I did find out that the stuff normally labeled RTV for the auto industry generally has better oil and temperature resistance.

The copper stuff is good to 700°F.
I glued my muffler pipe back together with it, because I Suck at welding.
The plaster type stuff that Does harden with the heat of the muffler pipe doesn't bond as well and tends to crack and fall off too easily with any movement.

 

[spokewrench]

Yeah, I had to look that up when I needed "RTV Silicone" for my car.

It makes no damn sense.
All silicone cures at room temperature.
I'm not making my own tires, so I don't need to cook it to get it to harden. ??

Manufactured silicone rubber products use peroxide or platinum curing. Peroxide curing requires an oven. I think platinum curing does, too.

 

[tomjasz]

Wow thats bad. I recommend you take a shot at upping your game on the tape. 3M 2228 'mastic' tape is available at Home Depot in the electrical section. Its official name is 'moisture sealing electrical tape' and basically its a strip of adhesive rubber that is completely malleable, so you can squish it down and into those holes and block them forever against anything. It might not be the easiest fit if space is tight, but you can spend some time working it thin, and then cover it with that same gorilla tape so its not sticky on the outside anymore.

Since Juiced isn't going to be selling any more batteries, I'm sure preserving what you've got is important.

ALL road hard and put up wet bikes will greatly benefit from treatments with ACF50 or Boeshield! It works in general and military aircraft. Those moisture protections save our bacon on the streets as well.

 

[tomjasz]

ACF-50 will last up to 12 months. On more exposed areas retreat as necessary. ECONOMICAL - 95% Product - little goes a long way - lasts ages. SAFE TO USE ANYWHERE ON THE BIKE (but go easy on the callipers due to the obvious need to avoid the brake discs & pads!)
HOW IT WORKS: ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula, is a state of the art, anti-corrosion lubricant compound, specifically designed for the Aerospace Industry. It is an ultra Thin Fluid Compound (TFFC) that actively treats metal using advanced polar bonding technology.

ACF-50 actively penetrates and "creeps" into the tightest seams, lap joints, micro cracks, and around rivet heads, displacing moisture and other corrosive fluids (orange juice, coke, coffee, salt water) in these corrosive prone areas.

ACF-50's thin film acts like an "OFF SWITCH" for corrosion remaining effective for up to 24 months.

Lear Chemical Research Corporation

Lear Chemical Research developing and compounding anti corrosion lubricants and greases, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, Corrosion Block Grease, Rust Block, effectively solving corrosion related problems in the Automotive, Aviation, Industrial, Marine, Motorcycle and Recreational industries.

learchem.com

KILLS EXISTING CORROSION ON CONTACT and prevents new corrosion from forming CHEMICALLY NEUTRALIZES the corrosive effects of road salt A CLEAN CLEAR ULTRA THIN FLUID which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect base metal WILL NOT DRY OUT OR TRAP MOISTURE IN • SAFE TO USE ANYWHERE ON THE BIKE (except brake pads & rotors) and can be sprayed directly into electrical connections and components to prevent corrosion induced failures.
Use ACF-50 as EXTERNAL FOGGING OIL before seasonal storage and vehicle will be continuously protected against corrosion caused by moisture and condensation.


ACF-50 is safe on paint, most rubbers and is also excellent used on plastic trim without leaving the residue of silicon. Using ACF-50 as your preventive maintenance product keeps your ride fine-tuned while increasing reliability and value.

 

[tomjasz]

Just joined and happy to be here.

Very good of you to post with pictures. MOST ebikes use the same or very similar designs and potential issues. I fear this is far more critical than one isolated case with a single builder.

Every battery I ever sold could be an issues with mediocre maintenance, and frankly by the markets failure to instruct customers of do any real world testing. Alas that will make eBikes even MORE expensive.

I can say however my $3000 bottom shelf Bosch system is flying through a salty wet winter. But even that bike is "treated".

 

[spokewrench]

Very good of you to post with pictures. MOST ebikes use the same or very similar designs and potential issues. I fear this is far more critical than one isolated case with a single builder.

Every battery I ever sold could be an issues with mediocre maintenance, and frankly by the markets failure to instruct customers of do any real world testing. Alas that will make eBikes even MORE expensive.

I can say however my $3000 bottom shelf Bosch system is flying through a salty wet winter. But even that bike is "treated".

Years ago on another e-bike forum I read about LPS-1 greaseless lubricant. The poster said it excelled at dissolving corrosion. It displaces moisture and leaves a film that doesn't pick up dust. Three suggested uses are circuit breakers, electrical connectors, and electric motors.

I bought an aerosol can, then, at the manufacturer's site, found that the shelf life is much shorter than if I'd bought it in a gallon can. I won't need the aerosol often, so I may end up with a nearly full can that no longer works. But a gallon can costs a lot more than an aerosol can.

This stuff, too, can be bought by the gallon. I wonder if there's a difference in shelf life.

 

[tomjasz]

Years ago on another e-bike forum I read about LPS-1 greaseless lubricant. The poster said it excelled at dissolving corrosion. It displaces moisture and leaves a film that doesn't pick up dust. Three suggested uses are circuit breakers, electrical connectors, and electric motors.

I bought an aerosol can, then, at the manufacturer's site, found that the shelf life is much shorter than if I'd bought it in a gallon can. I won't need the aerosol often, so I may end up with a nearly full can that no longer works. But a gallon can costs a lot more than an aerosol can.

This stuff, too, can be bought by the gallon. I wonder if there's a difference in shelf life.

Well it's been the subject of Milspec testing and it's reliable on avionics. My can is 10 years old. You use VERY little and still appears to be doing the job.

Officially,
"ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Formula has a shelf life of two years from the date of manufacture. To maintain its effectiveness, it should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures."

My shop is in a basement, dark unlit old root cellar storage. ZERO sun, never below 50F or above 60F (10C-15C)

I can confirm those conditions have shown to be ideal for many products. But going forward smallest bottles of Boeshield, or splitting a purchase amount with mates will be the shizz.

 

[spokewrench]

Well it's been the subject of Milspec testing and it's reliable on avionics. My can is 10 years old. You use VERY little and still appears to be doing the job.

Officially,
"ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Formula has a shelf life of two years from the date of manufacture. To maintain its effectiveness, it should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures."

My shop is in a basement, dark unlit old root cellar storage. ZERO sun, never below 50F or above 60F 10C-15C

IIRC, the guy who recommended LPS-1 had used it in the Air Force. I checked with the manufacturer: 5 years in aerosol, 10 years in bulk. I've had mine nearly 3 years on a shelf in a cupboard. In the past, the propellant in an aerosol can has sometimes apparently seeped out. Maybe some cans seal better.

 

[Chazmo]

Very good of you to post with pictures. MOST ebikes use the same or very similar designs and potential issues. I fear this is far more critical than one isolated case with a single builder.

Every battery I ever sold could be an issues with mediocre maintenance, and frankly by the markets failure to instruct customers of do any real world testing. Alas that will make eBikes even MORE expensive.

I can say however my $3000 bottom shelf Bosch system is flying through a salty wet winter. But even that bike is "treated".

Thanks! Just want people to be aware since, otherwise, the Juiced G2 battery seems great to me! I’m keeping it charged within the 80%-20% guidelines and I don’t keep it in the cold except for my rides. Plus, since mid-January, there’s been nothing resembling “wet” conditions here. Just sandy, icy, snow crust on the trails which are somewhat unpassable (for me anyway).

Well, the real problem, Tomjasz, is that this battery has a connection port which is simply open to the elements. It was meant, apparently, to allow you to drop the battery into a docking station… Anyway, I mean, mea culpa for me taking the fenders off and thereby exacerbating the spray/contamination issue… but, most batteries I’ve seen use fairly well-sealed connectors on any electronics. Juiced somehow forgot that here. My failure was not a case of contamination in an already-protected area.

I bought a previous-generation Juiced battery which doesn’t have any “open” areas, as far as I can tell. That battery has a little less power, but I think it’ll be good for range extension for my rides this year. I hope I can keep the bike running for, say, another 3-4 years before I have to re-invest. The demise of Juiced hasn’t helped, but it’s turned me a bit into a DIY-er. A good thing, I think.

In any case, thanks for the corrosion resistance product suggestions! I’m going to look into these! Much appreciated!