Should I Buy A Pedal Wrench?
- Thread starter Jim1348
- Start date
il Munduato
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Most pedals have an Allen key on the backside of the shaft... That's all I've ever used.
Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Aptos
I usually just use a crescent wrench. I’ve never tried using the Allen wrench on the back like that. I should try that and see if I like it better. I swear, there really is more than one way to do everything.
Aushiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Australia
- City
- Walyalup, Western Australia
I use a allen key t-handle spanner. However, I also add Shimano Anti-Seize to the threads (I am sure that there are alternatives that do the same job). Makes like so much easier down the track when I need to remove the pedals.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
The best tool is a cordless impact driver and Allen wrench inserted.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I've had pedals that were so tight that I'd need to put a pipe wrench on that T-handle.
I remember having to use a hammer on the wrench to break a pedal free.
I use my socket set for pedals.
Jeremy McCreary
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
My neighbor's then 6 month-old Aventon Level.2 had a stock pedal that his ParkTool pedal wrench couldn't budge — even with both of us pulling at once. Salvaged some pride when the LBS couldn't get it off, either.
Ended up replacing the attached crank just to try some new pedals. Fortunately, not too expensive as bike modification adventures go.
Ended up replacing the attached crank just to try some new pedals. Fortunately, not too expensive as bike modification adventures go.
mschwett
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
this only happens when there isn’t enough grease on the threads when installed! happened to me once, with carbon cranks no less. threads were completely dry.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I over torqued my axle nut and broke my ¾" adapter trying to remove it.
I had a 4' pipe extender on my ¾" socket wrench and jumped on the handle.
I had over 600 ft. pounds on the nut.
I had to wait a month for a ¾" drive socket to arrive.
I spent over $100 on sockets and adaptors.
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PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Most pedals have 9/16" flats next to the crank. Too thin to use a regular open end wrench. I buy a US made rusty wrench at the flea market then grind it down to fit. Use safety glasses using power tools.The actual bike pedal wrench is thin enough, but made of garbage instead of alloy steel. I use a pipe on the wrench shaft. A sledge hammer on the pipe. Pedals will not come out unless you clamp the crank arm in a vise. Bikes never come with anti-seize on the threads, the first set of pedals are always stuck. Most of the time I have to use a torch to heat the crank arm. Be aware one of the pedals is left hand thread.
Pedals that have an allen socket usually do not have to be drilled out and re-tapped as the others do sometimes. Or sometimes the crank arm has to be replaced because a worn out pedal is stuck in it.
Pedals that have an allen socket usually do not have to be drilled out and re-tapped as the others do sometimes. Or sometimes the crank arm has to be replaced because a worn out pedal is stuck in it.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
The anti-seize paste is even better
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
The anti-seize paste is even better
It's time for me to buy more anti-seize.
My little can from the 80's is almost gone.
I noticed that there was copper and silver anti-seize.
The silver is rated for a lower temperature than the copper.
I'm gonna get the silver.
I think it's thicker and I doubt my e-bike will get hotter than 1600° C.
Unless I'm trying to remove a pedal.
il Munduato
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I never bother with anti-seize as it's designed to be used when dealing with extreme temperatures causing big swings in expansion /contraction and corrosive conditions.
A light assembly grease is all that's needed for pedals or anywhere else on a bicycle for that matter.
ymmv
A light assembly grease is all that's needed for pedals or anywhere else on a bicycle for that matter.
ymmv
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Obviously you do not ride your bike in the rain or park your bike in the rain while shopping, attending a meeting or concert, working. You do not park your bike even in a garage near the sea like Galveston or any other ocean island.
I have a can of Permatex silver anti-sieze that is 30 years old. It is used up. I have not seen another for sale in an auto supply for 30 years. The auto supply is selling copper anti-sieze from somebody else. I have a can of that out at the summer property.
Had to cut a clutch adjustment nut off the rod of a tractor with a file this summer: Turned the ears of the nut off with a tubing wrench I bought special to match the 17 mm nut, even after heating. 4 hours on my back of wheaky wheaky wheaky. It is the wrong distance off the ground to use a grinder. Too high to lift the grinder up from the ground: too low to sit up. I do not have a lift for tractors. If I booger the rod threads I could order another, maybe, from Japan, which might ship in a year.
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PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
My friend gave me that beat up half used can of MS MOLY 20 years ago but I don't like it, and never use it. It's labeled anti-seize but it's not the same.
I'm hoping that a new can of #133H Permatex Silver will be the same as the my old stuff.
It's got the same product code.
I hope they didn't change the recipe?
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
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