It's finally time for an update on this most excellent ebike (aka WhiteyFord). If you have read my other rambling M2S threads posted on this forum site, then you are aware of the fact that I bought this item as a possible/probable “parts” ebike for my 2018 M2S KUSH (now, in 2022, named R750FS). After all, who is to know when these beasts will suddenly decide to go caa-caa and just stop working-- 5,000 miles?.. 10,000 miles?.. 15,000 miles?.. 20,000 miles? And on and on. That KUSH now has 20,000+ miles and it just keeps on keeping on. This 2019 R750 follows that exact same agenda-- still quite powerful AND bulletproof, too.
Since buying this 2019 R750 beast, I have also purchased a 2020 BIKTRIX(brand) SWIFT(model) peas o' chit ebike and, later, a 2021 ARIEL RIDER (brand) X52(model) moped- style ebike. It, too, is nothing to write home about. But, I will address it/its issues over on the ARIEL RIDER forum. No use stinking up this most excellent M2S forum with that crap.
First, let me say that this 2019 R750 has been absolutely bullet-proof. As dependable as my 2018 KUSH and even more so. It still has ALL the original factory items (chain, rear derailleur, rear sprocket cassette, 8-speed shifter, bottom bracket, hydraulic braking system, even all the electrical components). I recently repacked the front wheel bearings (more out of guilt than of necessity) and I have only needed to replace the disc brake pads once and the “outer” tire (remember that my two M2S ebike beasts each utilize a 3-tire combo recipe-- a total of 6 tires) a couple of times. However, for this particular ebike, I use the 26x3 “city” style of fat tire combo setup until the snow begins to fall. I then swap it out for the factory original Kenda Juggernaut 26x4 knobby tire 3-tire combo affair. As for the 2018 KUSH, it remains in the “city tire” configuration year-round. Where I live, snow falls, remains around for about a week, and then melts, giving dry weather style riding conditions until the next snowfall event. Life is good. A “snow event” will come into play on this thread shortly.
I am very much aware of the multitude of ebike companies popping up (like popcorn) in this day and age. How many are actually “fly by night” operations can only be determined as time goes on. Is company assistance dependable after the sale? A tough lesson learned-- especially by me: 6 ebikes, of which only 2 (the M2S ebikes) have been deemed purchase-worthy. All the others are filed under “a really tough lesson learned”. But, what the hey, it's only $. Remember that you can either learn from my adventures (and save yourself large quantities of $$$) or NOT. Game on
I also believe that the federal governments “30% ebike price refund” will eventually become reality. However, only certain criteria is allowable. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/arti...bike-tax-credit-possible-in-build-back-better. Just think, that $2,000 ebike is only going to be $1,400 out-of-pocket. With the $600 you save, a second battery can be purchased (if desired) OR maybe a rear hitch motorcycle rack to transport these heavy (70+ pounds EACH ) ebikes. The options are endless. Fun $$$$, fer sure.
Now for my latest Einstein Moment (Larry, that is).
I am fortunate to have a large city park with a grassy area the size of 6 football fields, located right next to my condo building. I just need to travel 100 feet to gain access. Whenever it snows, I head over to abuse the 6” of fresh fluffy powder. Too Much Fun.. I usually end up dinking around and doing a 15 mile ride in those conditions so, to be safe, I carry an extra ebike battery.
Anyway, I'm out there, tearing it up, and suddenly, at mile 1.3, the R750 mighty beast, just shuts down. ShitFire. This ain't good. I had abused 6” of snowfall on many prior occasions and nothing like this had ever happened. Did I finally fry the BaFang 750W rear hub motor( $200+), or the controller box($100+), or maybe even the cold weather temperatures had messed up the electronic components in the computer display unit(CDU)( the thing on your handlebar) ($75+)? Or the worst case scenario: did I overload, and thus FRY, the lithium battery ($500+)?Hellz Bellz.
I was lucky to be so close to home AND also to have ready access to that extra battery. So, here goes. Swap batteries.. Turn on the CDU.. Everything looks to be normal.. I had apparently fried the most expensive friggin' component of any mass-produced ebike. Needless to say, I hot-azzed it back to the condo to review the error of my ways (of which there are many). Everything operates normally on the return to the humble abode.
Upon assessing the situation, I actually formed a thought: Eric, and the M2S crew had posted a tutorial https://m2sbikes.com/battery-fuse-replacement/ in regards to the 48v/16ah battery, as used on both of my M2S beasts. It concerned the INLINE FLAT BLADE FUSE, a 30amp item, used in their product. Apparently, under “high load” conditions (such as a steep climb), the battery fuse might “blow” because of the load/stress. They (M2S) actually recommended changing out the 30amp fuse for a 40amp fuse and also to always carry an extra 40amp fuse on your ebike adventures. Too friggin' cool. After all, I was definitely exerting ample stress on the ebike beast during my 6” snow playtime.
Upon inspecting the battery, I noticed that it was the 48v/14.5ah battery which was original equipment on the peas o' chit 2020 BIKTRIX SWIFT ebike. As a matter of fact, it (battery) was one of the few components from that turd-sniffer ebike which was actually usable on/for my other ebikes. But, did it have an internal fuse (like the M2S batteries had)? Only one way to find out: pop the battery top cap.. So I did.. And sure enough, there was a 30amp fuse in there AND it had “taken one for the team” and, thus saved me a $500+ bill (for a new replacement battery). Hot Damn, was I a LuckyDucky..
I replaced that 30amp with a 40amp fuse, re-assembled the battery cap, mounted it on the R750, crossed my fingers, and pressed the “on” button. Sure enough, the battery was good to go. A serious lesson learned. I was very grateful for that little $1.09 fuse in its sacrifice for the greater $500+ good.
That now brings me to the bigger picture. When I go for my (nearly) daily ebike ride, it will be for a distance of 50 miles. I consider a 20 mile mile to be, basically, a trip to the grocery store-- not really even worth going on. So, 50 it is. As you can see, I definitely intend to get my $$$ worth out of these ebikes/their batteries. As a result of the aforementioned “fuse” incident, I decided to examine every one of my 7 ebike batteries to see whats what. So, I removed the top caps and here are the results:
I currently own the following batteries They are all the very common “Reention Dorado” type. This preference format restricts what ebike toy I am able/willing to spend my hardly earned $$$ on. Thankfully, the Reention Dorado style battery is very common.
a). One 48v/10.4ah battery. From my 2018 XTREME(brand) SEDONA(model) dual suspension ebike. This 15.5” (usually referred to as 440L) battery is known as a “short” battery. I believe that a 14ah version is the maximum available for this length battery. This battery is now 51 months old and is only good for about 7 miles ride time before it shuts down. It contains NO fuse.
b). Two 48v/16ah batteries. From my 2018 M2S KUSH ebike and my 2019 M2s R750 ebike (WhiteyFord). These are 18” (usually referred to as 505L) “long” batteries. Fortunately, nowadays, most ebikes utilize this larger capacity battery. Usually, any battery of 16ah, or higher, is this long battery.
The KUSH battery is now 46 months old and is good now about 27 miles per charge. It contains a 30amp (since replaced with a 40amp) fuse.
The R750 battery is now 31 months old and is now good for about 30 miles per charge. It contains a 30amp (since replaced with a 40amp) fuse.
c).One 48v/14.5ah battery. From the aforementioned BIKTRIX SWIFT ebike. This battery is (luckily) an 18”/505L length item. It is 21 months old and is good for about 25 miles per charge. It contains a 30amp (now replaced by a 40amp) fuse.
d).One 52v/18ah battery. From my 2021 Ariel Rider(brand) X52(model) moped-style ebike. This battery is 18”/505L length item. It is only 7 months old. It is good for 30+ miles per charge, depending upon which ebike is being used. This is a $600+ battery. It has NO fuse.
e). One 52v/13ah battery. This is a Summer 2020 aftermarket purchase. It is a 15”/440L short battery intended for use with the XTREME SEDONA ebike (a). above).. It is a 7 miles per charge peas o' chit purchased on DHGate website.. A hard $300 lesson learned. It contains NO fuse.
f). One 48v/21ah battery. This is a Spring 2021 aftermarket purchase. This battery is 18”/505L size. It gives about 30 miles per charge. It contains a 45amp fuse. This is a $500+ battery.
And, there you have it: 7 batteries.. 4 of them contain a $1.09 “guardian” fuse. So, what to do about the other 3? Here you have the answer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K3NLV27/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1XDRIMUVQ1ROH&psc=1 I just ordered the above item, so it hasn't arrived yet. Now, where to install them at? Hopefully, there will be room under the top cap to cram the fuse holder in. If, for whatever reason, there isn't sufficient space underneath, I will probably drill a couple of holes in the top cap, insert/ “solder” the 2 inside wires using this nifty little 21st century godsend item: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y6C4CYP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1? and then use this container to enclose the fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-3-Pi.../dp/B01M3Y32HZ/ref=rvi_12/130-4243677-8292514? I like its low profile and the opening/closing style of the lid. However, I won't be needing the magnet itself, as I will just black duct tape the little black box to the outside of the black main lithium battery case. I mean, lets face it, probably the ONLY time you will ever be accessing the battery top cap is to deal with the above mentioned FUSE scenario.
So, there you have it: I am totally smitten by the high caliber of workmanship of my two M2S ebike beasts. The fact that M2S might possibly be “done in” by the many current inferior pop-up brands-- Here Today, Gone Tomorrow-- really bums me out. And, as always, you can either learn from my “adventures”, or not. After all, it's only $$$..
As for my 2021 ARIEL RIDER X52 moped-style ebike beast: I've posted 6 threads over on their EBReview forum so far. I probably will only have 2 additional threads to post/deal with. Again, a hard lesson learned.
As for any future ebike battery purchases, I will be using only this company, as advertised on another EBReview forum thread: Reention newly upgrade 48V 25Ah&36V 30Ah (505L) interchangeable for eBikes Surface 604,NCM,Rize,Magnum,Aventon | Electric Bike Forums - Q&A, Help, Reviews and Maintenance (electricbikereview.com) It is quite informative and I am impressed by Jenny Mao and her dedication to our ebikes battery situation. As a matter of fact, I will probably be purchasing a 52v/20ah battery in May 2022 (when the weather warms up).
Jenny's email to my inquiry:
[[ I believe the ArielRider 52V 18Ah battery BMS limits max 3A charging
current, like our BMS limits max 5A charging current. Most BMS will allow 5A or higher charging current.
The 52V motor and controller system shall not damage the 48V battery, and most 48V/52V motor and controller system are compatible. But it is also suggested to confirm with ArielRider Tech.
ArielRider uses Dorado Max 505L for 52V 18Ah, actually this case max for
only 52V 17.5Ah of 14S5P Samsung 35E 18650 cells, for 48V 21Ah max.
The Dorado 21700 505L case for 52V 20Ah and 48V 25Ah max.
All our battery BMS allows max 5A charging current and 30A discharging
current.
The Dorado 21700 505L case is available for max 52V 20Ah by Samsung 50E 21700 cells. We will have it built with 10A charging fuse, 30A or 40A discharging fuse is not used as the inner space is limited.]]
As you can see, an inline fuse is not used. However, I can/will easily add it later.
Also, the fact that a 48v battery is indeed compatible with a 52v battery is addressed. But, not their respective battery charger units. By the way, Jenny is entirely correct in her assertion that the ARIEL RIDER 52v battery does have a “restricter” limiting a battery charger maximum of 3 amps. I learned this the hard way when I recently purchased this 52v battery charger https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/52v-advanced-300w-eco-charger-1-to-5a-80-90-100 when the plastic case piece of crap 2amp charger that came with the 52v/13ah “short” battery went “titz up”. Needless to say, I contacted Ariel Rider about the “3amp maximum” situation. They couldn't even answer my question. Duh. Learn from my mistakes, fer sure. By the way, the 52v/13ah battery recharges just fine at the 4amp or the 5amp setting
I am including this link, too: https://electricbikereport.com/replacement-electric-bike-batteries/ It just appeared in my email in-box today. I haven't read it yet, but I'm sure that it will have a lot of good information.
ADDENDUM: I just remembered this video by BIKTRIX (brand ebikes. It concerns battery recharge info:
.. Very interesting stuff, but be VERY CAREFUL if you do decide to attempt this option.
Finally, I recently purchased this item: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TVK89QC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
These wrenches are thin, a short length (3.75” thru 5.25”), inexpensive, AND there are 2 sets included for the price.
I am now 70 years old. Whenever I'm out dinking around on my one of my ebikes, I am still just 7 years old. It NEVER gets old, or boring. 50 miles makes for a fun ride day after day after day. I see those little kids out- and-about on their 12” high bikes and refer to them as “Mini-Me”. They are me.. I am them.. And they are always absolutely mesmerized by my colorful, eye-catching, mighty ebike beast(s). YAHOO!!
Well, I guess that's all. This #13 posting should be my last M2S thread posting for quite awhile. Buy an M2S brand ebike. You will NOT regret doing so.
Since buying this 2019 R750 beast, I have also purchased a 2020 BIKTRIX(brand) SWIFT(model) peas o' chit ebike and, later, a 2021 ARIEL RIDER (brand) X52(model) moped- style ebike. It, too, is nothing to write home about. But, I will address it/its issues over on the ARIEL RIDER forum. No use stinking up this most excellent M2S forum with that crap.
First, let me say that this 2019 R750 has been absolutely bullet-proof. As dependable as my 2018 KUSH and even more so. It still has ALL the original factory items (chain, rear derailleur, rear sprocket cassette, 8-speed shifter, bottom bracket, hydraulic braking system, even all the electrical components). I recently repacked the front wheel bearings (more out of guilt than of necessity) and I have only needed to replace the disc brake pads once and the “outer” tire (remember that my two M2S ebike beasts each utilize a 3-tire combo recipe-- a total of 6 tires) a couple of times. However, for this particular ebike, I use the 26x3 “city” style of fat tire combo setup until the snow begins to fall. I then swap it out for the factory original Kenda Juggernaut 26x4 knobby tire 3-tire combo affair. As for the 2018 KUSH, it remains in the “city tire” configuration year-round. Where I live, snow falls, remains around for about a week, and then melts, giving dry weather style riding conditions until the next snowfall event. Life is good. A “snow event” will come into play on this thread shortly.
I am very much aware of the multitude of ebike companies popping up (like popcorn) in this day and age. How many are actually “fly by night” operations can only be determined as time goes on. Is company assistance dependable after the sale? A tough lesson learned-- especially by me: 6 ebikes, of which only 2 (the M2S ebikes) have been deemed purchase-worthy. All the others are filed under “a really tough lesson learned”. But, what the hey, it's only $. Remember that you can either learn from my adventures (and save yourself large quantities of $$$) or NOT. Game on
I also believe that the federal governments “30% ebike price refund” will eventually become reality. However, only certain criteria is allowable. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/arti...bike-tax-credit-possible-in-build-back-better. Just think, that $2,000 ebike is only going to be $1,400 out-of-pocket. With the $600 you save, a second battery can be purchased (if desired) OR maybe a rear hitch motorcycle rack to transport these heavy (70+ pounds EACH ) ebikes. The options are endless. Fun $$$$, fer sure.
Now for my latest Einstein Moment (Larry, that is).
I am fortunate to have a large city park with a grassy area the size of 6 football fields, located right next to my condo building. I just need to travel 100 feet to gain access. Whenever it snows, I head over to abuse the 6” of fresh fluffy powder. Too Much Fun.. I usually end up dinking around and doing a 15 mile ride in those conditions so, to be safe, I carry an extra ebike battery.
Anyway, I'm out there, tearing it up, and suddenly, at mile 1.3, the R750 mighty beast, just shuts down. ShitFire. This ain't good. I had abused 6” of snowfall on many prior occasions and nothing like this had ever happened. Did I finally fry the BaFang 750W rear hub motor( $200+), or the controller box($100+), or maybe even the cold weather temperatures had messed up the electronic components in the computer display unit(CDU)( the thing on your handlebar) ($75+)? Or the worst case scenario: did I overload, and thus FRY, the lithium battery ($500+)?Hellz Bellz.
I was lucky to be so close to home AND also to have ready access to that extra battery. So, here goes. Swap batteries.. Turn on the CDU.. Everything looks to be normal.. I had apparently fried the most expensive friggin' component of any mass-produced ebike. Needless to say, I hot-azzed it back to the condo to review the error of my ways (of which there are many). Everything operates normally on the return to the humble abode.
Upon assessing the situation, I actually formed a thought: Eric, and the M2S crew had posted a tutorial https://m2sbikes.com/battery-fuse-replacement/ in regards to the 48v/16ah battery, as used on both of my M2S beasts. It concerned the INLINE FLAT BLADE FUSE, a 30amp item, used in their product. Apparently, under “high load” conditions (such as a steep climb), the battery fuse might “blow” because of the load/stress. They (M2S) actually recommended changing out the 30amp fuse for a 40amp fuse and also to always carry an extra 40amp fuse on your ebike adventures. Too friggin' cool. After all, I was definitely exerting ample stress on the ebike beast during my 6” snow playtime.
Upon inspecting the battery, I noticed that it was the 48v/14.5ah battery which was original equipment on the peas o' chit 2020 BIKTRIX SWIFT ebike. As a matter of fact, it (battery) was one of the few components from that turd-sniffer ebike which was actually usable on/for my other ebikes. But, did it have an internal fuse (like the M2S batteries had)? Only one way to find out: pop the battery top cap.. So I did.. And sure enough, there was a 30amp fuse in there AND it had “taken one for the team” and, thus saved me a $500+ bill (for a new replacement battery). Hot Damn, was I a LuckyDucky..
I replaced that 30amp with a 40amp fuse, re-assembled the battery cap, mounted it on the R750, crossed my fingers, and pressed the “on” button. Sure enough, the battery was good to go. A serious lesson learned. I was very grateful for that little $1.09 fuse in its sacrifice for the greater $500+ good.
That now brings me to the bigger picture. When I go for my (nearly) daily ebike ride, it will be for a distance of 50 miles. I consider a 20 mile mile to be, basically, a trip to the grocery store-- not really even worth going on. So, 50 it is. As you can see, I definitely intend to get my $$$ worth out of these ebikes/their batteries. As a result of the aforementioned “fuse” incident, I decided to examine every one of my 7 ebike batteries to see whats what. So, I removed the top caps and here are the results:
I currently own the following batteries They are all the very common “Reention Dorado” type. This preference format restricts what ebike toy I am able/willing to spend my hardly earned $$$ on. Thankfully, the Reention Dorado style battery is very common.
a). One 48v/10.4ah battery. From my 2018 XTREME(brand) SEDONA(model) dual suspension ebike. This 15.5” (usually referred to as 440L) battery is known as a “short” battery. I believe that a 14ah version is the maximum available for this length battery. This battery is now 51 months old and is only good for about 7 miles ride time before it shuts down. It contains NO fuse.
b). Two 48v/16ah batteries. From my 2018 M2S KUSH ebike and my 2019 M2s R750 ebike (WhiteyFord). These are 18” (usually referred to as 505L) “long” batteries. Fortunately, nowadays, most ebikes utilize this larger capacity battery. Usually, any battery of 16ah, or higher, is this long battery.
The KUSH battery is now 46 months old and is good now about 27 miles per charge. It contains a 30amp (since replaced with a 40amp) fuse.
The R750 battery is now 31 months old and is now good for about 30 miles per charge. It contains a 30amp (since replaced with a 40amp) fuse.
c).One 48v/14.5ah battery. From the aforementioned BIKTRIX SWIFT ebike. This battery is (luckily) an 18”/505L length item. It is 21 months old and is good for about 25 miles per charge. It contains a 30amp (now replaced by a 40amp) fuse.
d).One 52v/18ah battery. From my 2021 Ariel Rider(brand) X52(model) moped-style ebike. This battery is 18”/505L length item. It is only 7 months old. It is good for 30+ miles per charge, depending upon which ebike is being used. This is a $600+ battery. It has NO fuse.
e). One 52v/13ah battery. This is a Summer 2020 aftermarket purchase. It is a 15”/440L short battery intended for use with the XTREME SEDONA ebike (a). above).. It is a 7 miles per charge peas o' chit purchased on DHGate website.. A hard $300 lesson learned. It contains NO fuse.
f). One 48v/21ah battery. This is a Spring 2021 aftermarket purchase. This battery is 18”/505L size. It gives about 30 miles per charge. It contains a 45amp fuse. This is a $500+ battery.
And, there you have it: 7 batteries.. 4 of them contain a $1.09 “guardian” fuse. So, what to do about the other 3? Here you have the answer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K3NLV27/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1XDRIMUVQ1ROH&psc=1 I just ordered the above item, so it hasn't arrived yet. Now, where to install them at? Hopefully, there will be room under the top cap to cram the fuse holder in. If, for whatever reason, there isn't sufficient space underneath, I will probably drill a couple of holes in the top cap, insert/ “solder” the 2 inside wires using this nifty little 21st century godsend item: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y6C4CYP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1? and then use this container to enclose the fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-3-Pi.../dp/B01M3Y32HZ/ref=rvi_12/130-4243677-8292514? I like its low profile and the opening/closing style of the lid. However, I won't be needing the magnet itself, as I will just black duct tape the little black box to the outside of the black main lithium battery case. I mean, lets face it, probably the ONLY time you will ever be accessing the battery top cap is to deal with the above mentioned FUSE scenario.
So, there you have it: I am totally smitten by the high caliber of workmanship of my two M2S ebike beasts. The fact that M2S might possibly be “done in” by the many current inferior pop-up brands-- Here Today, Gone Tomorrow-- really bums me out. And, as always, you can either learn from my “adventures”, or not. After all, it's only $$$..
As for my 2021 ARIEL RIDER X52 moped-style ebike beast: I've posted 6 threads over on their EBReview forum so far. I probably will only have 2 additional threads to post/deal with. Again, a hard lesson learned.
As for any future ebike battery purchases, I will be using only this company, as advertised on another EBReview forum thread: Reention newly upgrade 48V 25Ah&36V 30Ah (505L) interchangeable for eBikes Surface 604,NCM,Rize,Magnum,Aventon | Electric Bike Forums - Q&A, Help, Reviews and Maintenance (electricbikereview.com) It is quite informative and I am impressed by Jenny Mao and her dedication to our ebikes battery situation. As a matter of fact, I will probably be purchasing a 52v/20ah battery in May 2022 (when the weather warms up).
Jenny's email to my inquiry:
[[ I believe the ArielRider 52V 18Ah battery BMS limits max 3A charging
current, like our BMS limits max 5A charging current. Most BMS will allow 5A or higher charging current.
The 52V motor and controller system shall not damage the 48V battery, and most 48V/52V motor and controller system are compatible. But it is also suggested to confirm with ArielRider Tech.
ArielRider uses Dorado Max 505L for 52V 18Ah, actually this case max for
only 52V 17.5Ah of 14S5P Samsung 35E 18650 cells, for 48V 21Ah max.
The Dorado 21700 505L case for 52V 20Ah and 48V 25Ah max.
All our battery BMS allows max 5A charging current and 30A discharging
current.
The Dorado 21700 505L case is available for max 52V 20Ah by Samsung 50E 21700 cells. We will have it built with 10A charging fuse, 30A or 40A discharging fuse is not used as the inner space is limited.]]
As you can see, an inline fuse is not used. However, I can/will easily add it later.
Also, the fact that a 48v battery is indeed compatible with a 52v battery is addressed. But, not their respective battery charger units. By the way, Jenny is entirely correct in her assertion that the ARIEL RIDER 52v battery does have a “restricter” limiting a battery charger maximum of 3 amps. I learned this the hard way when I recently purchased this 52v battery charger https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/52v-advanced-300w-eco-charger-1-to-5a-80-90-100 when the plastic case piece of crap 2amp charger that came with the 52v/13ah “short” battery went “titz up”. Needless to say, I contacted Ariel Rider about the “3amp maximum” situation. They couldn't even answer my question. Duh. Learn from my mistakes, fer sure. By the way, the 52v/13ah battery recharges just fine at the 4amp or the 5amp setting
I am including this link, too: https://electricbikereport.com/replacement-electric-bike-batteries/ It just appeared in my email in-box today. I haven't read it yet, but I'm sure that it will have a lot of good information.
ADDENDUM: I just remembered this video by BIKTRIX (brand ebikes. It concerns battery recharge info:
Finally, I recently purchased this item: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TVK89QC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
These wrenches are thin, a short length (3.75” thru 5.25”), inexpensive, AND there are 2 sets included for the price.
I am now 70 years old. Whenever I'm out dinking around on my one of my ebikes, I am still just 7 years old. It NEVER gets old, or boring. 50 miles makes for a fun ride day after day after day. I see those little kids out- and-about on their 12” high bikes and refer to them as “Mini-Me”. They are me.. I am them.. And they are always absolutely mesmerized by my colorful, eye-catching, mighty ebike beast(s). YAHOO!!
Well, I guess that's all. This #13 posting should be my last M2S thread posting for quite awhile. Buy an M2S brand ebike. You will NOT regret doing so.
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