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- Thread starter JayVee
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Manu
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- Spain (Galicia)
It is very interesting to see that when climbing to high revolutions, the simple fact of going from 85 to 94 has a vertiginous decrease in consumption of 14%.
standar you change from 85 to 95 rpm losing top speed 32 to 27km / h earning 20% more range with battery. The effort of going high cadence allows you to save a lot of battery.
The test is to use the eco + or Eco on flat terrain and if it is what I believe within those 25km / h you should be for a much lower consumption.
Pw 45 speed-pedelec
hight more 500w++
standar more 500+
eco is 500w
eco+ is 250w
------------------------------------
Pw 25 pedelec
hight 450w
standar 350w+
eco is 250w
eco+ is 125w
In your 45km / h pw 45 speed pedelec if you want to extend your range the solution is to approach 25km / h or 30km / h on flat terrain or hillclimp at high rpm 90 to 95 to further extend the battery and, if possible, in eco or eco + mode, the easy way.
If you feel tired or need to improve your time, you will go to wild modes up to 45km / h.
38t x 36 t 95rpm=13,4 km/h Hillclimp 38t x 36t 140rpm=19,6 km/h buff to 140 i dead.
38t x 19t 95rpm= 23,9 km/h here el 19t y 21t 5 speed or half cassette ,flat terrain /hillclimp=
38t x 17t 95rpm =28,1 km/h missing test
38t x 15t 95rpm= 31,8 km/h missing test
38t x 11 t 95rpm =43,4 km/h..here you cross the chain completely and this combination would not be used.
48t x 36t 95rpm=16,8 km/h ..here you cross the chain completely and this combination would not be used.
48t x 19t 95rpm=31,8km/h speed pedelec flat terrain + downhill with drive unit assitance to 45km/h to +/pedelec flat terrain cut 25km/h ,downhill with or without drive unit cut 25km/h to +human pedaling.
48t x 17t 95rpm= 35,5 km/h flat terrain + downhill with drive unit assitance to 45km/h to +/pedelec flat terrain cut 25km/h downhill with or without drive unit cut to 25km/h to + speed rpm human pedaling
option 2 pedelec very low rpm in flat terrain max speed 25km/h with drive unit.
48t x 15t 95rpm =40,2 km/h same up
48t x 13t 95rpm=46,4 km/h flat terrain + downhill with drive unit assit cut 45km/h + with downhill out assitance 45km/h +human pedaling
/pedelec same up
48t x 11t 95 rpm=54,8 km/h flat terrain +downhill with drive unit assit cut 45km/h + with downhill out assistance only rpm and human pedaling./pedelec same up
I do not know the rpm that I can get without assistance of the drive unit pw 25/45 in flat terrain and that relations allow to reach 95 rpm or overcome them, I believe that everything that exceeds 25km / h with a pedelec of 23 kilograms 25/45 km / h will be hard. I think that will always be as much on the plate as 38t x 15t 75rpm = 25.1 km/h or option 2 put plate 48t x 13t /15t 53rpm = 25.4 and go at low rpm within 25km / h. Passive wear mode.
It is an experiment that I have pending to really know what speed and cadence can be given without assistance of the drive unit pw 25, I'm sure I can give up to 20km / h without engine assistance on flat terrain with a 48t x 15 / 13t but I do not know how much I can do with 38t.
With this we would know the ideal ratio of a high cadence above 95rpm for plate of 38t and 48t to achieve a greater human contribution and a lower wear of battery getting a good speed.
The table of consumption and rpm helps me to know the consumption in my hight mode with blueped at 40km / h and I find it very useful ....
standar you change from 85 to 95 rpm losing top speed 32 to 27km / h earning 20% more range with battery. The effort of going high cadence allows you to save a lot of battery.
The test is to use the eco + or Eco on flat terrain and if it is what I believe within those 25km / h you should be for a much lower consumption.
Pw 45 speed-pedelec
hight more 500w++
standar more 500+
eco is 500w
eco+ is 250w
------------------------------------
Pw 25 pedelec
hight 450w
standar 350w+
eco is 250w
eco+ is 125w
In your 45km / h pw 45 speed pedelec if you want to extend your range the solution is to approach 25km / h or 30km / h on flat terrain or hillclimp at high rpm 90 to 95 to further extend the battery and, if possible, in eco or eco + mode, the easy way.
If you feel tired or need to improve your time, you will go to wild modes up to 45km / h.
38t x 36 t 95rpm=13,4 km/h Hillclimp 38t x 36t 140rpm=19,6 km/h buff to 140 i dead.
38t x 19t 95rpm= 23,9 km/h here el 19t y 21t 5 speed or half cassette ,flat terrain /hillclimp=
38t x 17t 95rpm =28,1 km/h missing test
38t x 15t 95rpm= 31,8 km/h missing test
38t x 11 t 95rpm =43,4 km/h..here you cross the chain completely and this combination would not be used.
48t x 36t 95rpm=16,8 km/h ..here you cross the chain completely and this combination would not be used.
48t x 19t 95rpm=31,8km/h speed pedelec flat terrain + downhill with drive unit assitance to 45km/h to +/pedelec flat terrain cut 25km/h ,downhill with or without drive unit cut 25km/h to +human pedaling.
48t x 17t 95rpm= 35,5 km/h flat terrain + downhill with drive unit assitance to 45km/h to +/pedelec flat terrain cut 25km/h downhill with or without drive unit cut to 25km/h to + speed rpm human pedaling
option 2 pedelec very low rpm in flat terrain max speed 25km/h with drive unit.
48t x 15t 95rpm =40,2 km/h same up
48t x 13t 95rpm=46,4 km/h flat terrain + downhill with drive unit assit cut 45km/h + with downhill out assitance 45km/h +human pedaling
/pedelec same up
48t x 11t 95 rpm=54,8 km/h flat terrain +downhill with drive unit assit cut 45km/h + with downhill out assistance only rpm and human pedaling./pedelec same up
I do not know the rpm that I can get without assistance of the drive unit pw 25/45 in flat terrain and that relations allow to reach 95 rpm or overcome them, I believe that everything that exceeds 25km / h with a pedelec of 23 kilograms 25/45 km / h will be hard. I think that will always be as much on the plate as 38t x 15t 75rpm = 25.1 km/h or option 2 put plate 48t x 13t /15t 53rpm = 25.4 and go at low rpm within 25km / h. Passive wear mode.
It is an experiment that I have pending to really know what speed and cadence can be given without assistance of the drive unit pw 25, I'm sure I can give up to 20km / h without engine assistance on flat terrain with a 48t x 15 / 13t but I do not know how much I can do with 38t.
With this we would know the ideal ratio of a high cadence above 95rpm for plate of 38t and 48t to achieve a greater human contribution and a lower wear of battery getting a good speed.
The table of consumption and rpm helps me to know the consumption in my hight mode with blueped at 40km / h and I find it very useful ....
Last edited:
Manu
Active Member
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Later I will really put what the human effort without help of the mid-drive can give in cadence with each combination of plate and cassette on flat terrain and if it really is very difficult for your legs to get that cadence, this determines the effort and speed that is You can keep.
I can affirm that without the mid-drive on the 36t and some combination I got 30km / h, I repeat without mid drive helping.
correct data
....disc 48t and 36t cassete 11-36 combinations =36t,32t,28t,24t,21t,19t,17t,15t,13t,11t.Treking 2 plates
The 38t is only in monoplate with cassette 11-46 in trekking monoplate.
I can affirm that without the mid-drive on the 36t and some combination I got 30km / h, I repeat without mid drive helping.
correct data
....disc 48t and 36t cassete 11-36 combinations =36t,32t,28t,24t,21t,19t,17t,15t,13t,11t.Treking 2 plates
The 38t is only in monoplate with cassette 11-46 in trekking monoplate.
Last edited:
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
Bikecalc is helpful for determining speed at cadence (or cadence at speed). It does not determine effort, which would be relative to one's age and fitness.
When I was younger, I competed in time trials. My best result for the 10 mile race along the Rock Creek Parkway was 22.08 minutes; just over 27 mph. My bike's gearing was 52/42, with a seven speed cluster; 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23. I primarily used the 52 x 17 so my average cadence was about 113 rpm. Too bad my RC won't let me get to that speed. Well, it will, but not with any help from the motor!
Manu
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It's about knowing not only the maximum speed for human effort, but also the cadence and see within those plates and combinations that easily exceeds 90 rpm to be above the regime of maximum assistance of the drive-unit and provide speed with much less consumption on flat ground .it could also be used to know until gradient + or hillclimp a certain combination can be used.
my surprise today was to choose the 36t and achieve up to 30km / h with high cadence and without a great effort on my knees and all without assistance of the mid-drive.
Really the yamaha is extraordinary without mid-drive connected, it takes a great performance.
And I think that by using a good ratio of 90 or 95 cadence with eco+ 125w and blueped limiting at 50km / h you can get some very interesting results.
and all this at least for my age and my current health.
I'll do those tests and publish my results
my surprise today was to choose the 36t and achieve up to 30km / h with high cadence and without a great effort on my knees and all without assistance of the mid-drive.
Really the yamaha is extraordinary without mid-drive connected, it takes a great performance.
And I think that by using a good ratio of 90 or 95 cadence with eco+ 125w and blueped limiting at 50km / h you can get some very interesting results.
and all this at least for my age and my current health.
I'll do those tests and publish my results
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When you are doing these tests what are the power readings from the bars on the left of the computer display ? I ask because I can rarely get more than 3 or 4 bars. We have long 4-6% hills here and I don't think the Yamaha motor is helping much. I do about 55 to 70 rpm on the hills. The dealer thinks the motor is defective. Your thoughts/
Seat of pants.. When I first got the bike, I thought this spinning sucks.. meant no assistance, so I would change up to go faster ( like an old 4 stroke motorcycle). Now, i am a bit fitter so yes i do the same thing.. keep the cadence right up and use the assist to push the cadence up again ( should i falter). This way. I can keep high speeds, and still get reasonable range (16 - 20 miles). I have the US mode, running a single 36 up front. So.. I needed to remove the speed limit. 22 - 23 miles per hours is the max i get before i spin out. if i lived in a flat area i would run 38 up front. with a 11-42 at the back and in high mode I can still climb ANYTHING. On longer rides, i simply take another battery. I use 400KMH batteries are they are cheaper. I ONLY ride undulating technical hills. I really would like to try a PW-X.. with the tariffs I might be waiting a while for these to drop to a reasonable price. I have a very high maintenance bill. chains, cassettes, brakes.. they all fail way faster than with a normal bike.. but i have never been happier ( still cheaper than a real moto)
forgot to mention.. reduced cranks to 170 mm. now looking for 165 mm. You can go over ANYTHING, just you have to keep pedaling.
forgot to mention.. reduced cranks to 170 mm. now looking for 165 mm. You can go over ANYTHING, just you have to keep pedaling.
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Manu
Active Member
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rpm dish cassette Flat terrain without assits.
36/48 x 11=80 rpm/50rpm
36/48 x 13=85 /55
36/48 x 15=90 /60
36/48 x 17=95 / 65
36/48 x 19=100 /70
36/48 x 21= 110 /75
36/48 x 24= 115 /80
36/48 x 28=120 /87
36/48 x 32=125 /96
36/48 x 36= 130++/105
Out of the force window to gain more autonomy or range
and reach or exceed 90 rpm.
36 x 36 to 36x 15.
48 x 36 to 48 x 32 crossing the chain and should not be used.
Actually the dish to use is 36 teeth with almost all the cassette .
If we want a low rpm and be within the power window the 48 t with motor assistance is correct and more downhill.
36/48 x 11=80 rpm/50rpm
36/48 x 13=85 /55
36/48 x 15=90 /60
36/48 x 17=95 / 65
36/48 x 19=100 /70
36/48 x 21= 110 /75
36/48 x 24= 115 /80
36/48 x 28=120 /87
36/48 x 32=125 /96
36/48 x 36= 130++/105
Out of the force window to gain more autonomy or range
and reach or exceed 90 rpm.
36 x 36 to 36x 15.
48 x 36 to 48 x 32 crossing the chain and should not be used.
Actually the dish to use is 36 teeth with almost all the cassette .
If we want a low rpm and be within the power window the 48 t with motor assistance is correct and more downhill.
Trail Cruiser
Well-Known Member
I concur that the higher the cadence, the less assist you get from the motor and your pedal effort do most of the work. However, the actual road speed also affects your energy consumption. The faster is your speed, the more watt hours consumed per kilometer traveled. Could have been a better correlation if the speeds were equal.
Anyway, how did you get your cadence? Is it built-in on the Yamaha display or do you have to put a separate cadence meter?
