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- Thread starter JayVee
- Start date
Manu
Active Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Spain (Galicia)
the plate of 48t is natural that you think has no use because the mid-drive assists up to 45km / h ..... but that plate gives you up to 60km / h of top speed down the mountain by road, as I gives them to me with a pedelec of 25km / h .... well 62 km / h.I really do appreciate it.
That dish allows to have a full range from 0 speed to 45km / h low cadence ....... yesterday I did 3 continuous hours of pedelec at 25km / h and I got those 3 hours for the low rate and use that dish, if I have to go to more revolutions I'm dying
You do not have flat terrain but with that plate you go at 30km / h very soft and low cadence and eating a snack if you want.
In my case using the blueped.
That dish allows to have a full range from 0 speed to 45km / h low cadence ....... yesterday I did 3 continuous hours of pedelec at 25km / h and I got those 3 hours for the low rate and use that dish, if I have to go to more revolutions I'm dying
You do not have flat terrain but with that plate you go at 30km / h very soft and low cadence and eating a snack if you want.
In my case using the blueped.
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Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
Neat!
Lots of useful info.
I enjoy pedaling hard compared to spinning and I have always enjoyed Brose and Yamaha for that reason although I ride the Bosch trekking bike. Bosch Trekking S Rx has been great but I do wish it had more range. I wish this package had Supernova M99 lights and some higher volume tires.
This summer, I am switching to Big Ben tires and better fenders. Surprisingly, Magura brakes have been top notch on both Haibike and Stromer. Always reliable stopping power at my disposal and have been very happy with that.
If only there was a S-pedelec with 750Whr battery, <50lbs weight, Supernova M99 lights, Magura MT5 and 27.5" high volume tires....
Actually, I am thinking of getting the Trekking 9.0 Bosch bike and unlock it....
Lots of useful info.
I enjoy pedaling hard compared to spinning and I have always enjoyed Brose and Yamaha for that reason although I ride the Bosch trekking bike. Bosch Trekking S Rx has been great but I do wish it had more range. I wish this package had Supernova M99 lights and some higher volume tires.
This summer, I am switching to Big Ben tires and better fenders. Surprisingly, Magura brakes have been top notch on both Haibike and Stromer. Always reliable stopping power at my disposal and have been very happy with that.
If only there was a S-pedelec with 750Whr battery, <50lbs weight, Supernova M99 lights, Magura MT5 and 27.5" high volume tires....
Actually, I am thinking of getting the Trekking 9.0 Bosch bike and unlock it....
Bryan995
Member
I too have the same bike, only the Trekking S 5.0 (w/ Bosch motor).
I certainly noticed these three issues:
Any solutions to the below two?
My front fender has a horrible rattle and is always quite loose. The hanging bracket is poorly designed. Any better swap-in replacements? I've tried zip-tie-ing the fender in place but that was only a temporary fix.
How about the brake issue? My brakes have an occasional squeal. Perhaps this is because of oil on the pads? The only solution may be a pad replacement (have not yet attempted, only 600miles on the bike). However if oil will continually leak then I may be going through pads quite often?
I also think I will switch to Big Ben tires and better fenders when it comes time. Hoping the wider tires will fit - will have to look into this a bit.
I certainly noticed these three issues:
- The bike comes with flimsy SKS chromoplastics fenders. The rear fender works as advertised, but the front one wobbles and makes an absolutely horrible noise.
- The Magura MT4 brakes progressively leak. A mechanic where I bought the bike said they’ve sold a lot of models with MT4 brakes and this is quite common. Each time you change the pads a little bit of liquid leaks out when you press apart the pistons. So you have to be ever so careful doing this.
- The ride is bumpy. People have often placed the blame on the Suntour SR, which only has 63mm of travel. That’s true, but it’s only part of the problem. The narrow 700x38 tires are also part of the problem. And then there’s the frame. It’s so stiff that the rear bounces off each and every bump. The smaller the frame, the bumpier the ride… I have a 52 which is a size S
Any solutions to the below two?
My front fender has a horrible rattle and is always quite loose. The hanging bracket is poorly designed. Any better swap-in replacements? I've tried zip-tie-ing the fender in place but that was only a temporary fix.
How about the brake issue? My brakes have an occasional squeal. Perhaps this is because of oil on the pads? The only solution may be a pad replacement (have not yet attempted, only 600miles on the bike). However if oil will continually leak then I may be going through pads quite often?
I also think I will switch to Big Ben tires and better fenders when it comes time. Hoping the wider tires will fit - will have to look into this a bit.
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Bryan995
Member
Awesome thanks - just ordered a cheap bicycle tube to attempt the fix ($3 on amazon)
Any recommendation on pads? Considering trying these if the replacement schedule will be every 500-1000 miles.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAK340M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3FRFYVV65AYFX&psc=1
Will look into burping/bleeding procedures, I've done this on a car before, so a bicycle should be doable (after a little youtube learnings)
Any recommendation on pads? Considering trying these if the replacement schedule will be every 500-1000 miles.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAK340M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3FRFYVV65AYFX&psc=1
Will look into burping/bleeding procedures, I've done this on a car before, so a bicycle should be doable (after a little youtube learnings)
Awaaja
New Member
Thanks JayVee your very good and accurate observation of Trekking Sduro 6.0 S. I have same bike since September 2017 and now after 8000 km I can confirms most of your statements but not all.
- I have no leaks with Magara MT4. Otherwise they are not as sensitive to break as some Shimano top models. Break pads are wear out unevenly. The front brake had have a terrible twitch but I think problem was in the rim not the break.
- no battery rattle with this model, previous one I have the same issue but it was easy to fix as standard maintenance procedure.
- assistant levels I rather move ECO mode nearer to ECO+ the gap between them are too big for my usage. I don's see much difference between STD and HIGH but I live quite flat area and maybe the difference are more clear in hilly terrain. The best option should add more adjustable parameters for control system, similar way as Impulse motor control where are wide range of configurable parameters.
- rack can be easily attach all sort of bags but it is very wobbly when attach even little more weight to bags. I think previous model was better.
-"Rims are top notch. " I can not agree, they are rubbish. Both rims are changed, rear one the spokes are drill through the rims and shoulders of spoke holes where broken. Front rim makes terrible twitch when breaking and immediately after the wheel was changed to DT Swiss 466d with Shimano HB-M788 the problem disappeared. The tapes of rims starts detached and blurred after 1.5 month of usage.
- Chain and drivetrain are built as standard, the first chain was broken at 2426 km, the replacement KMC X10e was weak one and chain and sprockets need to chain again at 3414 km. Second set of chain, sprockets and chain rings 7077 km.
This is my third pedelec and I ride about 10 000 km/year. My over all judgement of Trekking Sduro 6.0 S is positive, the most reliable bike I have so far. Maybe not the funniest ride but a very good trekking and commute bike. I agree with JayVee that Haibike could do excellent bike if they chosen some better quality parts for bike. But maybe the same ownership with some accessory manufacturer makes difficult to use better accessories.
- I have no leaks with Magara MT4. Otherwise they are not as sensitive to break as some Shimano top models. Break pads are wear out unevenly. The front brake had have a terrible twitch but I think problem was in the rim not the break.
- no battery rattle with this model, previous one I have the same issue but it was easy to fix as standard maintenance procedure.
- assistant levels I rather move ECO mode nearer to ECO+ the gap between them are too big for my usage. I don's see much difference between STD and HIGH but I live quite flat area and maybe the difference are more clear in hilly terrain. The best option should add more adjustable parameters for control system, similar way as Impulse motor control where are wide range of configurable parameters.
- rack can be easily attach all sort of bags but it is very wobbly when attach even little more weight to bags. I think previous model was better.
-"Rims are top notch. " I can not agree, they are rubbish. Both rims are changed, rear one the spokes are drill through the rims and shoulders of spoke holes where broken. Front rim makes terrible twitch when breaking and immediately after the wheel was changed to DT Swiss 466d with Shimano HB-M788 the problem disappeared. The tapes of rims starts detached and blurred after 1.5 month of usage.
- Chain and drivetrain are built as standard, the first chain was broken at 2426 km, the replacement KMC X10e was weak one and chain and sprockets need to chain again at 3414 km. Second set of chain, sprockets and chain rings 7077 km.
This is my third pedelec and I ride about 10 000 km/year. My over all judgement of Trekking Sduro 6.0 S is positive, the most reliable bike I have so far. Maybe not the funniest ride but a very good trekking and commute bike. I agree with JayVee that Haibike could do excellent bike if they chosen some better quality parts for bike. But maybe the same ownership with some accessory manufacturer makes difficult to use better accessories.
Bryan995
Member
Anyone swap out the fenders for something a bit more rigid? I just noticed my front fender is cracked and needs to be replaced. Could never get the fenders as silent as I had hoped (even after adding rubber to connection points). Is it worth considering a different brand/model as replacement?
It looks like the Haibikes (mine is a 2017 Xduro Trekking S 5.0) comes with SKS bluebell primus fender?
This is the closest one I can find.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
It looks like the Haibikes (mine is a 2017 Xduro Trekking S 5.0) comes with SKS bluebell primus fender?
This is the closest one I can find.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
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Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
Hubs are usually one of the more reliable components. How has the hub broken?
E-Wheels
Well-Known Member
Rohloff
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
For a non-IGH, you cannot go wrong with a Shimano XT hub. You can also upgrade to center lock rotors at the same time.
irishnutter
Member
I just wanted to suggest another item to watch with the SKS fenders (specifically the front fender). I had been reading the forums before my Haibike arrived so I was mentally prepared for having to do the JayVee mod to the front fender. But when the bike arrived, the fender was silent. I think JayVee also said it might take 200 miles but it'll show up.
After the initial 30 or 40 miles, my rear rack loosened up and made a horrible rattle. While tightening that up, I went on an anal screw tightening tour covering the whole bike. While tightening up the front fender stays, I must have inadvertently twisted them. They are breakaway stays with "TOP" clearly printed on the top. On the next ride, I started hearing a bad plastic rattle from the front. When stopped the fender felt sold and made zero noise. But after a few rides, I figured it had to be the front fender.
Finding the SKS user manual, it looks like the length of the stays can be adjusted (hard to tell for sure as the user manual looks like it was a first grade afternoon assignment). But when looking at the stays (thinking I might try adjusting the stay length), I realized I must have turned them while on the screw tightening frenzy. The simple act of twisting them back so that "TOP" was on top completely eliminated the rattle. So before embarking on the JayVee fix, you may just want to check this as well as play with the length of the stays.
After the initial 30 or 40 miles, my rear rack loosened up and made a horrible rattle. While tightening that up, I went on an anal screw tightening tour covering the whole bike. While tightening up the front fender stays, I must have inadvertently twisted them. They are breakaway stays with "TOP" clearly printed on the top. On the next ride, I started hearing a bad plastic rattle from the front. When stopped the fender felt sold and made zero noise. But after a few rides, I figured it had to be the front fender.
Finding the SKS user manual, it looks like the length of the stays can be adjusted (hard to tell for sure as the user manual looks like it was a first grade afternoon assignment). But when looking at the stays (thinking I might try adjusting the stay length), I realized I must have turned them while on the screw tightening frenzy. The simple act of twisting them back so that "TOP" was on top completely eliminated the rattle. So before embarking on the JayVee fix, you may just want to check this as well as play with the length of the stays.
Bryan995
Member
Can anyone tell me how many links the chain should have? 2017 trekking 5.0 S.
Chain broke and I bought a replacement. Naively though it was plug and play and did not need sizing. Already tossed the old chain ...
Got it close but the drivetrain now makes a clicking noise when under pressure. Maybe 1 too large? Or maybe it’s the motor? Would be a pure coincidence though as the motor was silent with the old chain ...
New chain is a Shimano 901
Chain broke and I bought a replacement. Naively though it was plug and play and did not need sizing. Already tossed the old chain ...
Got it close but the drivetrain now makes a clicking noise when under pressure. Maybe 1 too large? Or maybe it’s the motor? Would be a pure coincidence though as the motor was silent with the old chain ...
New chain is a Shimano 901
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Bryan995
Member
Thanks. Will double check them all. The sound is mostly coming from the motor cog area. Also if the bike is on a stand then it’s mostly silent. Only when the drivetrain is under pressure/strain do you hear it. Noisey with or without motor assist. Thought it was the chain maybe being too large? But REI said it’s the motor... ?
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
The number of links in a chain has no bearing on noise.
If it clicks in all gears, it could be a stiff link, but if REI looked at the bike, a stiff link would normally show up in the repair stand, and it would click even without pressure.
If it is noisy only in one gear, and it is the gear you most frequently ride in, it is likely the cog of the cassette is worn to match the old chain. It is not enough wear to cause skipping, but enough to be noisier under pressure. Depending on the position, the cog may or may not be able to be replaced individually.
On the other hand, if the noise is coming from the front ("The sound is mostly coming from the motor cog area."), perhaps you are describing a rubbing front derailleur? In the repair stand it won't make noise because without pedal pressure, the frame does not flex. Under load the frame and crankset can move laterally, causing the chain to rub against the outside derailleur plate. But this would have happened with the old chain as well.
Another thing to check...especially if you broke a chain...is the rear derailleur hanger alignment. A misaligned derailleur can cause noise.
If it clicks in all gears, it could be a stiff link, but if REI looked at the bike, a stiff link would normally show up in the repair stand, and it would click even without pressure.
If it is noisy only in one gear, and it is the gear you most frequently ride in, it is likely the cog of the cassette is worn to match the old chain. It is not enough wear to cause skipping, but enough to be noisier under pressure. Depending on the position, the cog may or may not be able to be replaced individually.
On the other hand, if the noise is coming from the front ("The sound is mostly coming from the motor cog area."), perhaps you are describing a rubbing front derailleur? In the repair stand it won't make noise because without pedal pressure, the frame does not flex. Under load the frame and crankset can move laterally, causing the chain to rub against the outside derailleur plate. But this would have happened with the old chain as well.
Another thing to check...especially if you broke a chain...is the rear derailleur hanger alignment. A misaligned derailleur can cause noise.
Bryan995
Member
Good stuff thanks. I did break a chain so yes maybe the rear derailed hanger is out of alignment. Will look.
It clicks in all gears, even ones I very rarely ever used. Some louder than others. So yes maybe it could also be a worn rear cassette ...
No front derailer, just the haibike small sprocket. But that’s seems to be where the noise is emitting from. Perhaps that sprocket could be worn? Only 2000 milestone though ... but it is the origin of the noise.
Will double check all things. Bringing it to a new (evoke focused) shop tomorrow so we shall see ... appreciate it!
Bryan995
Member
Not to de-rail this thread (get it?)...
Rear derailed is not bent. Things are perfectly aligned if I look down the chain from the front to the rear.
Some videos of the noise.
Motor only (bearings sound good? how to fix the squeak? Grease?)
Drive train + motor w/o pressure (no noise)
Drive train + motor w/ pressure 1 (lots of clicking)
Drive train + motor w/ pressure 2
Riding (lots of noise, with or without motor assist)
The chain is indeed bouncing around quite a bit, but didn't see it coming in contact with anything. Clutch is enabled. Could that be it? 1-2 links too long? Or just both cogs age too worn/matched to the old chain ?
Rear derailed is not bent. Things are perfectly aligned if I look down the chain from the front to the rear.
Some videos of the noise.
Motor only (bearings sound good? how to fix the squeak? Grease?)
Drive train + motor w/o pressure (no noise)
Drive train + motor w/ pressure 1 (lots of clicking)
Drive train + motor w/ pressure 2
Riding (lots of noise, with or without motor assist)
The chain is indeed bouncing around quite a bit, but didn't see it coming in contact with anything. Clutch is enabled. Could that be it? 1-2 links too long? Or just both cogs age too worn/matched to the old chain ?
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