2020 ultra FS battery range

[lordnox09]

I currently have a 48v 21ah battery from my other ebike and a new 52v battery I got with the bike I seem to get the same range out of both batteries but its only around 30km per charge on the same 21ah battery I can get close to 80km on my other bike with a 500w hub motor going 32-35km an hour the whole time on the bike path it's almost pure flat I seem to get less range and at a slower speed and I am giving more effort then I did is there something I am doing wrong? I use the trottle for only a couple mins each time right now it's new so I like the speed increase from my other bike am I meant to go in a super low gear and not put as much effort and get more range that way?

 

[Hintrod]

I have the same issue happening I have an Ultra FS with a 48v 21 amp battery and it gets half or lthe range as my Juiced CCX with hub drive. With the same sized batteries. It is very confusing to me and I think the Biktrix controller and Bafang motor are very inefficient. By the way this is all flat paved Surfaces in Florida

 

[lordnox09]

I have the same issue happening I have an Ultra FS with a 48v 21 amp battery and it gets half or lthe range as my Juiced CCX with hub drive. With the same sized batteries. It is very confusing to me and I think the Biktrix controller and Bafang motor are very inefficient. By the way this is all flat paved Surfaces in Florida

I have the same issue happening I have an Ultra FS with a 48v 21 amp battery and it gets half or lthe range as my Juiced CCX with hub drive. With the same sized batteries. It is very confusing to me and I think the Biktrix controller and Bafang motor are very inefficient. By the way this is all flat paved Surfaces in Florida

I even tried to go in pas 1-3 most of the time and have the speed set to 35km/h I have my tire pressure at 5 under whatever the max psi was believe it's 25/30
I could almost never reach the speed limit while in that low pas was around 27 km/h average

 

[lordnox09]

So today I used my 48v 21 ah battery on a ride in pas 1-3 outta pas 9 setting and I got 30ish km and I then used my 52v battery for another ride and used it in a lower gear and used the throttle almost the whole time my avg speed in the city was 29km/h so I was giving it hell and I also got 33km I reset the trip for this one so it seems to be use the bike in a super low gear and let the pas do all the work for the best range but you will only be doing like

 

[lordnox09]

(Phone glitched there) you will only be doing like 17km/h where my 500whub motor I could ride in 26th gear and it was comfortable for hours at 32-35km/h really curious to hear from long time owners

 

[lordnox09]

So after some more testing I found a gear need to count what gear it is exactly but if you hold the throttle in that gear it will keep you at a at steady 32-33km/h and it uses way less battery seems to be around 400w on flat got 20km in and was still at 54v on my 52v battery and there was quite a few hills in there as well would test further but shifting down another gear before a hill and it snapped my chain as I started up the grade

 

[reed scott]

I currently have a 48v 21ah battery from my other ebike and a new 52v battery I got with the bike I seem to get the same range out of both batteries but its only around 30km per charge on the same 21ah battery I can get close to 80km on my other bike with a 500w hub motor going 32-35km an hour the whole time on the bike path it's almost pure flat I seem to get less range and at a slower speed and I am giving more effort then I did is there something I am doing wrong? I use the trottle for only a couple mins each time right now it's new so I like the speed increase from my other bike am I meant to go in a super low gear and not put as much effort and get more range that way?

This might help: https://www.ebiketuning.com

 

[AHicks]

Looking closely at a Juggernaut Ultra HT, and find this a little concerning. From my reading/research, I know that the stock Ultras leave quite a bit to be desired regarding their tuning as received. That said, it was my understanding (hope?) the the Ultras purchased from Biktrix enjoyed the benefit of some custom tuning, that they were NOT shipped as received from Bafang.

I get the fact there is some very high performance mods available for the Ultra, but the standard 1000w would likely be fine for me. The idea of paying this kind of money for an un-tuned battery hog is giving me a little pause.

There are other similarly equipped bikes with this motor selling for a lot less. If I'm going to start with something I'll need to tune myself (from ground -0-), I'm wondering why I shouldn't start with one of those?

 

[lordnox09]

Well the throttle always gives up to 100% power it is set in stages to ramp up the power to 100% I have heard many people talk about the chain and crank making noises when you hit the throttle they have had to have done some tuning as the reviews I read about the ultra don't seem to be true in my case the acceleration is smooth and impressive even with just throttle if you have it in pas 9 and a low gear it can be jolting off the start but that's just pumping the watts into it from a dead stop including the power you apply plus the 1000-1500w it puts out I am very happy with my purchase this is my 3rd ebike and had a 60cc gas bike as well and this is by far the smoothest ride with the highest acceleration top speed and climbing ability if you have it in the lowest gear you can climb a mountain from a standstill

 

[lordnox09]

I have done some further range testing on it and if you keep it in pas 1 and switch to a high gear and of course you have to put in some work (more than expected) you can get the claimed range of the bike my longest trip on a single battery is 56km and still had 2volts left but I was tires after the 3ish hour ride was mostly flat ground on the bike path that used to be train tracks so it's only has long small inclines and declines the issue is when you bump it into the highest pas that 1500watts can eat a 1kw battery in 40ish mins of throttle and the different pas settings do not affect throttle the throttle on pas 1 gives you 9 instantly Wich is good and bad for range reasons it would be nice the throw it in on 1-3 outta 9 pas and set a cruise speed would make it more like my hub motor bike Wich is nice for long rides you can set a comfortable pace where you say out in 250w and the bike does 500w and now you can cruise at say 35km/h

 

[Slayer33]

Hi lordnox09. So is there something wrong with the battery, motor or controller that is causing the poor range??? or is this expected range (which seems terrible) and not as advertised....

I have an NCM Aspen, 500W rear hub motor and on max assist and 10% throttle only time (average 35 km/h), on my commute I can get just over 50kms on my 48V 13Ah battery... Fat tire ebike.

This worries me as I just ordered the Juggernaut Ultra FS today with the 52V 17.5Ah battery...

 

[lordnox09]

I

Hi lordnox09. So is there something wrong with the battery, motor or controller that is causing the poor range??? or is this expected range (which seems terrible) and not as advertised....

I have an NCM Aspen, 500W rear hub motor and on max assist and 10% throttle only time (average 35 km/h), on my commute I can get just over 50kms on my 48V 13Ah battery... Fat tire ebike.

This worries me as I just ordered the Juggernaut Ultra FS today with the 52V 17.5Ah battery...

I Have an NCM Moscow plus 500w that I was comparing it to if you keep it in pas 1 you can get similar range for sure but you gonna have to work for it the tourqe sense is alot more work than the magnet censor in the Moscow when you get on a long incline and you cut back on pedal power on your bike the hub keeps you moving on this bike when you back off on your power the bike does as well so you either have to bump it up and use more watts or just accept that you aren't going at at 35 plus anymore I am not one to pedal in a lower gear than I need find pedaling fast like a maniac is no fun the issue with the battery range is only because of the 1500w power range it at times will use 3X the power of your last bike so picture when your holding the throttle up hill and gradually loose speed this one will ramp up the watts to try to maintain your top speed and when you can accelerate faster and each speeds of 55km/h with throttle I personally can't spin the cranks fast enough to reach top end in pas mode

 

[Slayer33]

I

I Have an NCM Moscow plus 500w that I was comparing it to if you keep it in pas 1 you can get similar range for sure but you gonna have to work for it the tourqe sense is alot more work than the magnet censor in the Moscow when you get on a long incline and you cut back on pedal power on your bike the hub keeps you moving on this bike when you back off on your power the bike does as well so you either have to bump it up and use more watts or just accept that you aren't going at at 35 plus anymore I am not one to pedal in a lower gear than I need find pedaling fast like a maniac is no fun the issue with the battery range is only because of the 1500w power range it at times will use 3X the power of your last bike so picture when your holding the throttle up hill and gradually loose speed this one will ramp up the watts to try to maintain your top speed and when you can accelerate faster and each speeds of 55km/h with throttle I personally can't spin the cranks fast enough to reach top end in pas mode

I see then, I know with my NCM Aspen I am using about 30-50% power at my top end speed with pedal assist to maintain.. I guess with the Juggernaut I won't be able to match the cadence so the PAS will exceed my own assist level to reduce the power draw. But can you not select the top speed to maybe 40kph where you can maintain a balance between PAS and power usage? And have the throttle to take you to light speed when needed?

 

[lordnox09]

Hi lordnox09. So is there something wrong with the battery, motor or controller that is causing the poor range??? or is this expected range (which seems terrible) and not as advertised....

I have an NCM Aspen, 500W rear hub motor and on max assist and 10% throttle only time (average 35 km/h), on my commute I can get just over 50kms on my 48V 13Ah battery... Fat tire ebike.

This worries me as I just ordered the Juggernaut Ultra FS today with the 52V 17.5Ah battery...

You will not regret your decision I have 650km on mine now and it's 14days old
But if you have the 1-3 pas setting 1 is basically 500w 2 is 800w and 3 is up to 1500 so if you stay in pas 1 you will get comparable range to your other bike my longest test for both with my 21ah batter where within 8km but on the ultra the speed and distance are not as accurate as your other bike so you will be going faster then your speedometer reads at 42 on speed trap I was doing 49
But it really is just the high end throttle or pas that drains the battery you can literally see the power draw on you meter sometime will read 52v when the battery is a fresh 58 as soon as you throttle you can see it drop and it will go back up when you let off but just the sheer power draw is intense you will feel the power of the bike and be throughly impressed and see where the extra amps are going it is also a 30 amp with I believe like 12mosfets it's about as optimised as you can get for "stock" I heard the grin 200ish dollar controller does save some battery as you can limit the power and amps through the display if you wanna ride for long it just won't be quite as easy as before at times and but you will definitely get used to it after some rides and just remember you have to use your gears with this one or you will struggle on acceleration and hills compared to a lower gear I mean if your flying near top end you won't have to change gear but if you are approaching a hill from a slow or stop you will want to be in 5-7th gear and you have to count clicks as there is no gauge on this shifter

 

[lordnox09]

I see then, I know with my NCM Aspen I am using about 30-50% power at my top end speed with pedal assist to maintain.. I guess with the Juggernaut I won't be able to match the cadence so the PAS will exceed my own assist level to reduce the power draw. But can you not select the top speed to maybe 40kph where you can maintain a balance between PAS and power usage? And have the throttle to take you to light speed when needed?

Yeah I have played with it a little and found 35 was pretty nice for staying pace with my friend on his Moscow plus most times it is 300-400w but the meter seems to not read fully there is times where I use the throttle and it shows 200-300w usage and it's just chugging back the juice as I'm accelerating to 50 you can get 30km+ depending on hills you may get more with throttle alone on the bike as well if you keep it in the 9th gear I believe it brings you to 38km/h well holding throttle and it's peppy from the start

 

[Slayer33]

Very much appreciated!! So a little bit of a learning curve from hub drive motors.. I've only owned my Aspen for 6 weeks but I've done over 900kms. My daily commute is 25kms one way and I charge at work so I have a full charge leaving at the end of the day. If I was to go PAS 9 or throttle only on the Juggernaut how far can I go with the 52V 17.5? I also have the 48/21.5... relatively flat commute with one decent hill.

 

[lordnox09]

Very much appreciated!! So a little bit of a learning curve from hub drive motors.. I've only owned my Aspen for 6 weeks but I've done over 900kms. My daily commute is 25kms one way and I charge at work so I have a full charge leaving at the end of the day. If I was to go PAS 9 or throttle only on the Juggernaut how far can I go with the 52V 17.5? I also have the 48/21.5... relatively flat commute with one decent hill.

I'm actually not positive on that one I find once you get to 32 I can put it back to pas 3 and still keep accelerating 5 is really a good range for riding at 35+ km/h otherwise I find the motor power waaay outputs past your cadence and it throws me off you can easily make it one way regardless of how your ride it you can get 25km at 50km/h + with throttle on the 17.5 I got 35km with full throllt for the last 10km and there was 12 ridiculous steep hills that I also throttle up and I still had pas power when it cut out asking as I kept it in pas 1 it wouldn't draw to much from the battery and you can get the last few volts on your 48v it will be 43v and the 52 is 47v from the display I was expecting to receive with it if you have it in pas 1 and you throttle it will only give you 10% motor power up through the 1-9 8 being I believe 80% and 9 was 100% Wich would be nice but having 100% at a whim also has its perks
But as long as you charge at work you won't have anything to worry about especially if you plan on using the pas mostly I ride around trails and then around town to a few spots and throttle alot I can easily get 30km I still think I can get more range and power with the 52v though even though the wh says otherwise could be cause the 48 is 20amp bms and 52 is 30 so mabey it just is more efficient with lower amps as well probaly runs cooler so waste less power I would assume

 

[roshan]

I currently have a 48v 21ah battery from my other ebike and a new 52v battery I got with the bike I seem to get the same range out of both batteries but its only around 30km per charge on the same 21ah battery I can get close to 80km on my other bike with a 500w hub motor going 32-35km an hour the whole time on the bike path it's almost pure flat I seem to get less range and at a slower speed and I am giving more effort then I did is there something I am doing wrong? I use the trottle for only a couple mins each time right now it's new so I like the speed increase from my other bike am I meant to go in a super low gear and not put as much effort and get more range that way?

We find that the biggest factor that makes a difference in range is the use of gears correctly on the Ultra. You need to be on the right gear. When in doubt, shift 1-2 gears lower than you think. To prove this, I took out an Ultra for a rip and riding it the same route, same bike, but changing how I was shifting gears. I noticed that I got a variance of over 50% in range based on how I ride. This is one of the things that make a hub motor great for beginner riders as the gears don't effect motor performance. That being said, no hub motor under 2000W would climb hills as efficiently as an Ultra because the torque from the Ultra motor is undisputed.

 

[lordnox09]

I can agree with you on that this motor can definitely carry it's weight I have climbed 2 questionable hills on this bike so far the 2 steepest that I know of in my city and I'll have to find a gauge of some sort to measure the angle of the hills but God damn this bike pulled me up those hills without me having to pedal or stand up or even shift my body weight to stop the front end from lifting was completely stable well climbing and was still doing 16 when I got to the top and 12 on the other from a stop with a minor run to the hill like 5meters or so just enough so I wasn't starting on the uphill grade and I weigh 200ish don't have a scale and last time I weighed myself I was 227 but that was nearly 7000km ago lol think I'm closer to 195-200 now in almost 3 months

 

[Man Without Shadow]

Just map it on google maps, use the "bike" setting/icon and get an elevation profile.