2015 ejoe Koda battery/motor/ controller question

hondasi88

New Member
Region
USA
First, I am really glad I found the board! Now hear my question/ situation. I found a ejoe Koda with a bad battery for 100. I really just wanted the frame but now I wanna try and resurrect this bike before buying a kit. I hooked up my 3, 36v 4.4Ah lithium batteries in parallel I had laying around to see if I could get it to turn on. The display works but the battery light blinks and the motor doesn't turn on.....its the 36v 500watt model. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I know this battery setup is not ideal and frowned upon but upgrades are coming especially the controller!This controller looks ancient.
 
I'd guess that the motor or controller are bad and that resulted in the battery not being stored properly and dying as well.
Hard to give advice..but if you plan on changing the controller anyway, start there. You have a lot of unknowns with a used $100 purchase and may have more than one problem
 
First, I am really glad I found the board! Now hear my question/ situation. I found a ejoe Koda with a bad battery for 100. I really just wanted the frame but now I wanna try and resurrect this bike before buying a kit. I hooked up my 3, 36v 4.4Ah lithium batteries in parallel I had laying around to see if I could get it to turn on. The display works but the battery light blinks and the motor doesn't turn on.....its the 36v 500watt model. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I know this battery setup is not ideal and frowned upon but upgrades are coming especially the controller!This controller looks ancient.
Is it this bike? If so, are you sure about the voltage? I.e., 36V will be undervoltage for this model. Anyway, best wishes in diagnosing. It’d really be best if you could test with a working (stock) battery as many things could be wrong other than the battery (as Gionni pointed out).

 
Court in his 2015 review looks at a 36V Ejoe. Display should power up on a single 36V4.4ah, and if wheel is off the ground, the throttle will spin the wheel if the rest of the bike is good.

The simpler things you need to check are that the motor connector (look about 12 inches down the cable from motor) is fully seated. Might not be a connector, but a decent bike like Ejoe should have them. The round connector is always worth reseating after 10 years, Make sure the brake lever cables aren't slack. If the levers are hanging loose, the brake switches will activate and inhibit any motor action.

Dig up a manual for you bike and see if there are any display error codes. Then see if your display is flashing them.

It's a geared motor. So it will turn with lower resistance going forward, and be a lot stiffer going backward. Still should turn by hand. Rea;;y stiff resistance means a short in the motor windings or in the controller. If that happens, unplug the motor connector and retest.

That's all I can think you can do without tools. You can always roll up a working ebike, and plug the ejoe motor into it.
 
Thanks for the suggestions and replies. I checked the connections,brakes along with other small things that would prevent the motor from getting power and its still not moving. With the power on, I am getting a red indicator light / blinking from the pedal assist sensor and same blinking from inside controller when the thumb throttle is engaged. Anyways, I'm thinking about getting a front hub setup since as a bike, everything has been tuned and works perfectly.
 
I wonder if it’s blinking a code at you, @hondasi88 Once upon a time on-board diagnostics (OBD) in cars used to do that. Maybe the controller is trying to tell you something. Dunno.

I’ll bet there’s some sensor feedback expected at the controller, like speed or cadence, that needs to be connected. Anyway, can’t help you more (and that’s probably no help). Good luck!
 
I wonder if it’s blinking a code at you, @hondasi88 Once upon a time on-board diagnostics (OBD) in cars used to do that. Maybe the controller is trying to tell you something. Dunno.

I’ll bet there’s some sensor feedback expected at the controller, like speed or cadence, that needs to be connected. Anyway, can’t help you more (and that’s probably no help). Good luck!
Thanks for the input! I work on cars so this project has been fun. The 3, 36v batteries came from a scooter i rigged up to fly. My next steps will be buying a 48v 15-20ah battery and a new controller with the pin outs or inputs to match the connections already on the bike.
 
Back