Still trying to decide on what bike to get. Im learning that ill get what i pay for. So im upping my spend limit to $2-$2500. 750w preferably. Can anyone tell me about juiced bikes. Looking at crosscurrent s mabye ripcurrent s. I really dont need the fendersor rack. I dont think. I want a decent bike that will last. All on road. So i really dont need a fat tire bike. Or any suggestions. I watched a video proving the 750w radrover motor is not a nominal measurement. Kinda turned me off them. Im a big guy so i need something with a little pep and comes in large size im 6'5" 225lbs. Class 2- 3. I think ill be using mostly throttle not much for exercise. Not trying to be a pain I just want something decent. Still looking at pace 500 as well. They will have lg size back at end of month. Thanks again
$2000-$2500 spend limit
- Thread starter Kensr75
- Start date
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
The Juiced bikes look great (love the 52v and hyd brakes), but I'm wondering why the RipCurent might interest you if you aren't interested in a fatty?
If you are serious about getting a bike, you have to start narrowing down options like tire size.
Regarding Juiced, while I like the fact they are making a 19.5ah "extended range" battery available on some models (vs. the standard 13ah), it's too bad they've made it part of a 700 dollar option package that includes fenders and a rack and not much else. That seems like a pretty rich option to me?
Bottom line, you could do a lot worse than a Juiced bike. At 1799, I think they represent quite a value. I do struggle with that 700. option package.
If you are serious about getting a bike, you have to start narrowing down options like tire size.
Regarding Juiced, while I like the fact they are making a 19.5ah "extended range" battery available on some models (vs. the standard 13ah), it's too bad they've made it part of a 700 dollar option package that includes fenders and a rack and not much else. That seems like a pretty rich option to me?
Bottom line, you could do a lot worse than a Juiced bike. At 1799, I think they represent quite a value. I do struggle with that 700. option package.
Thanks I dont need a fatty but they sure look nice. Ya to bad about the battery. 700 is a lot for fenders rack and battery. But I love the bike. I guess if im going to do this imight as well do it right with no regrets. Thanks so much for your help you have taught me a lot. We will be talking
smorgasbord
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
How many miles do you think you'll be riding in a day?
Hills?
Will you want to travel with your bike (Car rack)?
What do you think you want your maximum assisted speed to be?
I would start with the frame type you want. Some bikes have aggressive riding positions, which can optimize aerodynamics or pedaling performance. People with bad backs or necks may find those intolerable - others may just find them uncomfortable. Can you swing your leg over the high saddle easily, or will you be carrying things on your rear rack that make the leg swing clearance height too high? If so, consider a low-step frame. If the roads are good where you ride, you may not even want a front fork - or if you do consider bikes with them you may want one that locks and/or is adjustable.
For on-road use, I personally advise against fat tires. I know some people like them because they adsorb small bumps and make the ride cushy, but for me the penalties are heavy steering and increased unsprung mass. Again, if the roads are good then you should looks for bikes with narrower tires, under 2". There was a recent push towards "Plus" tire sizing, which were tires approaching 3" in width. Not as wide as fat tires, but wider than typical mountain bike tires. For on road you don't need these, but you may like the additional cushioning, if heavier steering. This is an area in which you should do some test rides to see what you like.
The same is true for cadence sensing versus torque sensing. Cadence sensing is like a throttle on your pedals. As long as the cranks are moving, the bike will give assistance depending on the power level you choose. That can be fun, as at a high power level you can go really fast with just an easy cadence, but it's not the best workout, and there will be times when the power boost is not what you want or even dangerous in traffic. WIth a cadence sensing bike, you will be constantly changing the power level based on hills and such. Torque sensors are almost always better - they make the motor assist based on how hard you're pushing on the pedals. Push harder and get more assist. The power levels control the multiplier, so you're not changing them as frequently. Not all torque sensing motors are the same - the differences are in control and feel. On a good torque sensing bike you're actually not aware that the bike is helping you - you just feel like superman up the hills. That's a combination of available power/torque and software programming.
The RadPower and Juiced bikes both use hub motors. There are also mid-drive motors, which power the cranks. Within the hub motor category there are two types: geared and direct. RadPower has a decent blog entry on the pros and cons here: https://www.radpowerbikes.com/blogs/the-scenic-route/guide-to-electric-bike-motors . Hub motors are good for on road use. If you have hills then you'll want a geared motor, but if not then a drive drive motor might be preferable. Mid drive motors have advantages of less unsprung mass, but they power through the chain, so you have to be in an appropriate gear like on a normal bicycle.
Another aspect is brakes. Generally, hydraulic brakes are better than mechanical brakes - more stopping power with less lever pressure required. This matters is you're a big person traveling very quickly, and/or doing steep descents.
Finally, you said class 2 or 3. Depending on where you'll be riding, Class 3 bikes may be prohibited. That may not matter to you, as enforcement in the US in many places is non-existent and even difficult, as many Class 2 bikes can be programmed to run at Class 3 speeds.
Hills?
Will you want to travel with your bike (Car rack)?
What do you think you want your maximum assisted speed to be?
I would start with the frame type you want. Some bikes have aggressive riding positions, which can optimize aerodynamics or pedaling performance. People with bad backs or necks may find those intolerable - others may just find them uncomfortable. Can you swing your leg over the high saddle easily, or will you be carrying things on your rear rack that make the leg swing clearance height too high? If so, consider a low-step frame. If the roads are good where you ride, you may not even want a front fork - or if you do consider bikes with them you may want one that locks and/or is adjustable.
For on-road use, I personally advise against fat tires. I know some people like them because they adsorb small bumps and make the ride cushy, but for me the penalties are heavy steering and increased unsprung mass. Again, if the roads are good then you should looks for bikes with narrower tires, under 2". There was a recent push towards "Plus" tire sizing, which were tires approaching 3" in width. Not as wide as fat tires, but wider than typical mountain bike tires. For on road you don't need these, but you may like the additional cushioning, if heavier steering. This is an area in which you should do some test rides to see what you like.
The same is true for cadence sensing versus torque sensing. Cadence sensing is like a throttle on your pedals. As long as the cranks are moving, the bike will give assistance depending on the power level you choose. That can be fun, as at a high power level you can go really fast with just an easy cadence, but it's not the best workout, and there will be times when the power boost is not what you want or even dangerous in traffic. WIth a cadence sensing bike, you will be constantly changing the power level based on hills and such. Torque sensors are almost always better - they make the motor assist based on how hard you're pushing on the pedals. Push harder and get more assist. The power levels control the multiplier, so you're not changing them as frequently. Not all torque sensing motors are the same - the differences are in control and feel. On a good torque sensing bike you're actually not aware that the bike is helping you - you just feel like superman up the hills. That's a combination of available power/torque and software programming.
The RadPower and Juiced bikes both use hub motors. There are also mid-drive motors, which power the cranks. Within the hub motor category there are two types: geared and direct. RadPower has a decent blog entry on the pros and cons here: https://www.radpowerbikes.com/blogs/the-scenic-route/guide-to-electric-bike-motors . Hub motors are good for on road use. If you have hills then you'll want a geared motor, but if not then a drive drive motor might be preferable. Mid drive motors have advantages of less unsprung mass, but they power through the chain, so you have to be in an appropriate gear like on a normal bicycle.
Another aspect is brakes. Generally, hydraulic brakes are better than mechanical brakes - more stopping power with less lever pressure required. This matters is you're a big person traveling very quickly, and/or doing steep descents.
Finally, you said class 2 or 3. Depending on where you'll be riding, Class 3 bikes may be prohibited. That may not matter to you, as enforcement in the US in many places is non-existent and even difficult, as many Class 2 bikes can be programmed to run at Class 3 speeds.
Wow. Ill call juiced bikes and see if they have a crosscurrent s. Thats good. I just like the look of a fat tire. Mostly flat on work route. 5 mi round trip. Couple hills to get to dr. Appts. No car till 2023. Thats why i want to make a solid purchace. Bike shops around here only sell pedal asst bikes. No throttle. Would give me an idea though. Thanks a lot. Your input is very helpful.
smorgasbord
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
For a 2.5 mile jaunt, even with a couple hills, you can pretty much choose based on style, weight, price, and maintenance. If you weren't so tall, I'd actually suggest looking at the Luna "Fixed Stealth" bike. Road bike tires, not overly aggressive posture, and it looks like a regular bicycle with the small battery in the downtube.
Are you mechanically and electrically handy? If you're unsure (one indicator might be, for instance, that you don't already own a multi-meter and don't own a metric wrench set), I'd really suggest going back to the local dealers and trying what they have. Even without a throttle, for the distances you'll be riding you can use as much power as you want without range anxiety.
I assume you've been over to the Juiced forum here to read about people's experiences.
Yes i own a multi meter and metric wrench/socket set. Ya range isnt going to be a problem. May take couple longer trips to dr as i said earlier. Ya my height is an issue. Another reason i thought juiced cycles. Couple of there bikes come in xl. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. Your a good person. I am looking not to pedal at all. I had a motorized mt bike. I quickly learned i needed a license for it such a waste.
Trying to keep it legal. Thats a heck of a motor though.
Similar threads
