My 2020 SWIFT ebike at day 150 and mile 2,130..
I had intended to do a 1,000 mile update on this ebike, but circumstances have delayed that review until now.
But, first of all, I want to give a big shout-out to the owners of the STUNNER LT (especially the 26” wheeled) ebike. I own two versions of that bike; one is a 2018(year) dual-suspension version (mileage 14,861) and one is a 2019(year) step-over (instead of your step-thru) hardtail version (mileage 6,660). Granted, neither of my ebikes say “BIKTRIX” on the frame, but trust me when I say that they are both “brothers from another mother” in comparison to your own wonderful LT toy.
I was very pleasantly surprised when I finally did an inquiry of the 2020 model. I had thought that the Stunner LT model was only a 20” wheel model so, since I don't have any interest in that tire size, I never pursued the model info. When I finally “saw the light”, I was amazed at the duplication between the spec's of your LT and my two fat tire ebikes. As a matter of fact, had I been aware of this LT back in early summer of 2019 (when I bought my R750 fat tire step-over [aka WhiteyFord—r.i.p. Whitey] ), I would have purchased it instead-- quick like a bunny. [Jan. 2021 update: You may want to read this follow-up thread of mine (after finishing this post) before seriously considering this STUNNER LT torque sensor bottom bracket-equipped ebike" https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/ .. I know that I have learned a very serious lesson.. Either you, the consumer, learn, or you don't.. Your call..]
Anyway, if you Stunner LT owners are interested, cruise over to the “M2S Forum” https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/m2s-bikes/ and check out my 10 (soon to be 11) threads , all of which pertain to my journey thru the fascinating, and oft times frustrating, world of the Fat Tire ebike. Those threads are numbered in the title so you will be able to follow the chronological order of the postings. You will find that those many very long-winded threads just might contain some information that you will find useful in your Stunner LT world. Because my ebike is your ebike-- exactly..
One other note: the SWIFT is light enough (50 pounds) as to be able to be transported on a regular bicycle hitch-mounted rear rack. And, if you remove the 7 pound battery, you are even better off (as far as lifting, etc).
The 70+ pound STUNNER LT, on the other hand, is best used in conjunction with a rear hitch rack intended for a motorcycle: https://www.discountramps.com/foldi...6cn8UVoFaBzHALPo8NlVHHuejG_MwE-waAiLYEALw_wcB Or, maybe this one https://www.discountramps.com/motor...K-Qk3JX7T4W1lXgVofaLygOZRqiVuxSAaAmM9EALw_wcB . All motorcycle racks also include a loading ramp so you can roll your beast onto/off of the rack, Remember: the longer the loading ramp, (say, 6') the shallower the angle (a good thing).. In addition, most ebikes have a "walk" mode that will greatly ease the pushing factor. Just remember to really stay focused on the task at hand or you might roll the ebike off the side of the ramp/rack. Bummer deal, fer sure.
You will also want to consider buying this item so that you can have "fold up" capability for the rack : https://www.discountramps.com/hitch..._o8heHbzke61obrfJre8pb_4xoVATQgIaAmtpEALw_wcB .. If you're really feeling adventurous, consider mating one (or more) of these to the motorcycle rack for added stability/piece of mind (also google "motorcycle wheel chock" ): https://www.bing.com/shop?q=motorcycle+wheel+chock&FORM=SHOPTB
Sometimes ya just gotta think outside the box.
And if you need to haul 2 ebikes, mating two of this carrier should be an easy enough project-- after all, one rack is rated for 400 pounds-- that equals 5+ fat tire ebikes. Ya just have to “think outside the box” a little to make it/them work. Also, if your front fork has lockout capability (full rigid), use it because compressing the forks during transport is extra hard on the internal hydraulics.
Now on to my review of the 2020 SWIFT ebike.
First of all, I am 69 years old, 5'9” tall, and, when I walk out the front door to go bike riding, weigh 205 pounds (including a 20 pound backpack). I feel that every thread being posted concerning a persons evaluation of their own ebike should, as a courtesy, post their body weight. That way every reader can compare their own personal “information” accordingly.
I have another SWIFT thread on this forum that was posted early on ( Day 10--mile 264), so I won't duplicate that info on this thread.
Let me start by saying that this ebike is an absolute rocket.. It has so much torque that I can easily “throw gravel/almost pop a wheelie” whenever I go forward after a stop. That is a very good thing (power-wise), but it is also a very bad thing if you are riding in wet/ slippery/ snowy/ icy conditions. If you transition from straddling this ebike at a stop to proceeding forward, the seat tip will give you a VERY firm push into your lower back. The torque is rather overpowering for a bike this light. My two Fat Tire ebikes, due to their big fat tires and extra 20+ pounds of dead weight, do NOT suffer from this anomaly.
My two fat tire ebikes have me conditioned to blipping the throttle for a second or two whenever I get going from a stop. The 80+ pounds of those mighty beasts seem to appreciate the extra omph. This Swift rascal does NOT require any assistance at all. I originally named it “Blackie” because it is black. I have since morphed its name to “Black Momba” (after that cute lil' rascal featured in the movie Kill Bill, Vol. 2) because this bike behaves exactly the way that scaly varmit does (when it exits the suitcase)-- So dang quick as to be a serious hazard to the unprepared. In my defense, this SWIFT is EXACTLY what I was looking for in ebike #5-- a straight up hot rod/sports car/ hold on and pay attention little beast.
First of all, there seems to be a variety of definitions in regards to “Class III”.. My personal definition is that, using throttle only (no pedaling), on flat terrain, the ebike will attain a speed of 28mph, or nearly so. Period.. That is the only thing I look for (performance-wise) in all of my newer ebikes. The difference between 20mph throttle-only top speed and 28mph top speed can not be understated. I witnessed this difference first hand one day while out on the local bike path riding my p.o.s. 2018 Xtreme (brand) SEDONA (model)-- ebike #2-- with its' 20mph top speed. The very next day I ordered my 2018 M2S KUSH dual-suspension 28mph beast. There are a few other criteria too, but that item will do for now.
My two fat tire ebikes are awesome in their own way (thence the earlier shout-out to you Stunner LT owners), but they are pretty much laid back in the handling/ performance arena. Oh, they have plenty of power and can get up to a throttle-only speed of 28mph (class III) in a steady acceleration curve. However, this Swift can rocket up to that same 28 mph speed in ½ the time. Black Momba just seems to want to go-go-go. Being 30 pounds lighter in weight (50 vs. 80) is a big factor, too. And it handles just like a small sports car. I nearly self-destructed twice soon after getting it because I wasn't ready for the lightning response of both the speed AND the handling. But, lesson learned. Now I look forward to the excitement of my 50+ mile rides on it just because it requires so much more attention than do the two fat tire ebikes.
Just to give you an idea of how much torque the MXUS rear hub motor generates, I am currently on “plan C” (see below) in regards to my tire/inner tube setup.
Plan A: the original kevlar banded tire/inner tube setup which came on the Swift ebike. An excellent set-up, by the way..
Plan B: another pair of not-kevlar banded 1.75” tires coupled with Bell No-Mor-Flat solid “inner tubes”. I can't see using those really nice original tires because, with these solid inner tubes, flat tires will NEVER be a factor. The only problem with Plan B is that this Swift has so much power/torque that it literally separated the rear tire sidewall from the wire bead that has contact with the rim wall. I was amazed at the ability of this rear hub motor to produce such force.. What to do, what to do??
Plan C (my current setup): Since those Bell solid inserts are indeed solid rubber, I got six 1” long sheet metal screws and screwed 3 in each sides sidewall of the replacement rear tire and of the solid inner tube (the front tire is no problem because it is just along for the ride anyway-- no torque/power friction to deal with).. And, with 900 miles testing-- so far, so good. But time will tell. How weird was it for you to read the aforementioned Plan C?? Screws through the tire sidewall? Who da thunk it??
And if this screwy option proves to not be effective??
Plan D: I stumbled across these interesting ebike specific items https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HXW1KWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. I even purchased them for “just in case” to go along with those excellent (and saved) original kevlar banded tires. If you do indeed read my many threads posted over on the M2S Forums site, you will be made aware of my own personal experience in attempting to mate (glue—in many forms) an original version Mr Tuffy tire liner to the inside of a fat tire ebike tire. Bummer deal fer sure. By the way, it appears that these ebike-specific MrTuffy liners use an epoxy mix setup to apply the liner to the tire. [Sidenote: since a tire has a limited lifespan (miles), is it possible to remove this Tuffy ebike tire liner from the old tire and re-apply it to the new tire?? And if so, what type of bonding agent is going to be required? ]..
In my case, should Plan D actually come to pass, I will just install BOTH tuffy ebike liner strips onto the rear tire because the front tire can/will use the solid tubes until the cows come home, so to speak. I will also use a HeavyDuty 1.5”-1.75” inner tube AND green Slime to complete the setup. And remember that, with ebikes, extra tire/wheel weight just does not matter-- the motor isn't affected. Believe me when I say that you never ever want to have to deal with a flat tire/rear wheel removal/replacement on a rear hub equipped ebike while out on a ride. So, I will do whatever I deem necessary to eliminate that possibility.
Also, if you look at the photo's at the end of my posting, you will (on the rear tire sidewall) see the three sheet metal screw heads (I put a piece of white tape by each one)and also the orange dot on the rim. That dot covers the valve hole so that water,etc stays out of the tire/rim. The 2018 Xtreme SEDONA in the one photo also has the same 1.75” tire/ Bell solid tubes front and rear. After 3,800 miles, its tires show zero wear and tear (mainly because it is so gutless, power-wise at 500 watts). No worry about ripping those tires.
So much for that item/info..
The battery on the SWIFT. (This is another of my requirements when looking to buy an ebike) You are very fortunate in that the battery used on this ebike (and also on the Stunner LT) is a Reention Dorado brand: https://www.dhgate.com/product/eu-us-tax-included-750w-48v-14ah-15ah-17/548521623.html?dspm=pcen.pd.newarrival.4.V7BVOPIwTqJmtKSxGZab&resource_id=548521623#mpdnewarr1-4-5|null::r3703464923 It is readily available worldwide and in two different lengths (390mm//15.3 inches and 460mm//18.1 inches-- the 460mm version is what you will need.) and in a variety of “ah” capacities. Think of the “ah” as a gas tank for a car. 14.5 gallons..16 gallons.. 17 gallons.. 21 gallons.. So, for the same $$$ you spend to upgrade/increase your gas tank by 3 or 7 “gallons” at the BikTrix website, you can use those same $$$ and purchase an ADDITIONAL battery with 14/15/17/21ah capacity. Think of it as a truck that has dual gas tanks—14.5ah plus 21ah equals 35.5 “gallons” total capacity. Granted that will require a means to carry the extra battery, but I will cover that item over on the M2S Forum when I post thread #11 in the near future. I ALWAYS have 2 batteries (one carried in a special type of backpack) whenever I go for a daily long distance ebike ride. You just have to remember to bring the key to remove the battery.
The Swifts 14.5ah version should be all you need. I can get between 34-40 miles per charge. Remember, my riding weight is 205 pounds AND I encounter only gradual climbs on most of my rides (as they usually are on concrete bike paths which parallel creeks). A person weighing 160 pounds should be able to go 50 miles. A person weighing 110 pounds should easily go 60 miles-- but you had better hang on and pay attention because dis bike really flies!! Also, my miles distance is attained with minimal use of the thumb throttle.
Of my 5 ebikes, four use the Reention Dorado 48v battery mentioned above. Of those 4 ebikes, only 1 uses the (short battery) 390mm length version. The other 3 ebikes use the 460mm length in either 14.5ah (the SWIFT) or 16ah (both of the M2S fat tire ebikes). And yes, all of these 460mm long batteries are indeed interchangeable. I can even use the shorter 390mm long battery in the longer holder because I built a combination bottom end bracket/heavy duty wrap (a neoprene/velcro knee brace)to keep the battery secured. Works like a friggin' champ, too.
By the way, On Oct 8th, I ordered a Reention Dorado 52volt/13ah battery in length 390mm for the p.o.s. SEDONA. It will be delivered in 3 days (Oct 28th) via FedEx. It cost me $362.00 delivered.. Not bad.. And I will also be able to use it on the three other (460mm length) ebikes because of my brace/adapter.
Other items:
The disadvantage of having multiple “toys” is that it is natural to think of them as an “apple-to-apple” comparison. This can/will really work against you when there are different components mounted onto your mighty steeds. I was spoiled by my two M2S fat tire ebike beasts (ebikes #3 and #4 respectively) because they were so much better (in every way) than my two Xtreme (brand) p-o-s ebikes (#1 and #2 respectively).
When this SWIFT arrived, I had to really work at adjusting my mindset to accepting that a sporty sports car (Swift) is so totally different than a full-size truck with off-road tires, etc (the two M2S fat tire ebikes). The large beasts would go along all day long using the BaFang 750w rear hub unit relying on PAS 2of9 with 3of9 only needed on climbs, The sporty Swift unit, using the MXUS 1,000 watt rear hub setup, needed to use PAS 5of9 on level ground and 8of9, or even 9of9, on any kind of even gradual climbs. Of course, the reality is that, with me weighing 205 pounds, the rear hub motor on the Swift just does not have the needed “omph” that is contained in the rear hub motor installed on the 2 fat tire ebikes. So, while I had originally planned on a 1,000 mile mark update, it is now 2,000+ miles and I am STILL dinking around with various options regarding the Swift power settings. I may even have a “bad” motor setup/torque setting unit(wherever the heck that item is located-- I don't have any “visual” indicators).. I'll check with support@BikTrix after I am satisfied that it is not my own doing causing the problem.
Other items:
Using larger/knobby tires: You are NOT going to be able to go much larger than the standard 1.75” tires. And, if you retain the stock fenders, you will be even further restricted. I'd say that a 1.9” knobby would be the absolute maximum.
Hydraulic brakes: These puppies are simply awesome. Such an excellent “touch/feel”. This Swift uses 160mm rotors. The two M2S beasts (and the Stunner LT) use 180mm rotors. In each case, the setup is perfect for that particular type ebike. By the way, DO NOT even consider buying an ebike (500 watts, or more) that uses a mechanical (wire strand) disc brake unit. The wire strand cable is CONSTANTLY stretching and you will be forever needing to fine tune the adjuster barrels located on the brake lever and at the main wheel housing. Both of my p-o-s Xtreme brand ebikes use mechanical/wire brake units.--total crap.. With hydraulic brakes: No Problem-o.. just go ride the ebike.
7-speed cassette: I have been riding mountain bikes since 1983.. Of all the different combinations (5/6/7/8/9 speeds), the 7-speed is my favorite (the M2S bikes use 8 speeds). And, with an ebike, you are not really needing to do a whole bunch of gear changing. I use 1,2,5,7(or 8) and that's about it-- the “e” part of an ebike does most of the “effort” anyway..
Computer Display Unit (CDU):
The physical dimensions of this display are perfect. What needs to be done is to split the screen into 4 boxes; one for mph.. one for PAS setting.. one for trip distance.. one for battery % / watts.. Thats all... Get rid of all the stupid bars, graphs, huge green circle, and THE COLOR RED... K.I.S.S.- keep it simple, stupid.. and be sure that the smallest digits to be used are 25% LARGER than the smallest units currently used (trip/watts/volts/battery%).. There's nothing like trying to decipher teeny little (and RED) digits through sunglasses on a bright sunny day.
For my closing opinion: I must honestly say that a person who is just a leisurely rider ( I refer to them as “sitting on the toilet and reading a magazine”)-- there are many of them out on the local bike paths AND they are always grinning -- should buy the STUNNER LT instead of this SWIFT ebike. For the same price, they will also be getting a bike with every component being readily available world-wide. If you google the MXUS 1,000 watt rear hub motor mounted on the Swift, you will find very little product information available. Also, the Stunner LT will give a much more genteel ride, due to those big fat 4” tires. All of my ebikes have a rear view mirror mounted on the left side handlebar bar-end. The Swift, due to its skinny high pressure (or, in my case, solid) tires, vibrates/shakes so much that it is often impossible to have a consistently clear picture of what is behind you. On the other hand, the two fat tire ebikes, with their big cushy tires, are always presenting me with a very clear non-shaky view..
On the Swift, when you turn to look back to the left, the bike darts to the left QUICKLY. Same goes for the right. So, the best way to negate the problem is to NOT look back-- thus, you need the mirror. But, if it is like viewing shaky puddin', then you are still “blind”.
The sports car handling/acceleration of the Swift is not for the leisurely ebike rider. No looking at/talking on your iphone -- 100% attention needs to be given at all times. The more time that is spent holding on to the handlebars will reward you by NOT crashing/ doing a face plant.
Ya just gotta remember that an ebike is NOT a bicycle.. It is a mechanized motorized contraption that presents the illusion of being a bicycle. When you are able to grasp/encompass that mindset, you will be able/willing to think outside the box and then make the ebeast work for you, not visa-versa..
There are now a myriad of ebikes to choose. The styles/ motor power/ components can be overwhelming. While it is nice to be dedicated to a particular brand, it is really in your best interest to keep an open mind.
You will further understand my thinking if you do go over and cruise through my many M2S forum postings-- I learned alot of lessons the hard way. But dang, I sure had fun.. And you can/will benefit from every one of them.
Thats all folks..
I had intended to do a 1,000 mile update on this ebike, but circumstances have delayed that review until now.
But, first of all, I want to give a big shout-out to the owners of the STUNNER LT (especially the 26” wheeled) ebike. I own two versions of that bike; one is a 2018(year) dual-suspension version (mileage 14,861) and one is a 2019(year) step-over (instead of your step-thru) hardtail version (mileage 6,660). Granted, neither of my ebikes say “BIKTRIX” on the frame, but trust me when I say that they are both “brothers from another mother” in comparison to your own wonderful LT toy.
I was very pleasantly surprised when I finally did an inquiry of the 2020 model. I had thought that the Stunner LT model was only a 20” wheel model so, since I don't have any interest in that tire size, I never pursued the model info. When I finally “saw the light”, I was amazed at the duplication between the spec's of your LT and my two fat tire ebikes. As a matter of fact, had I been aware of this LT back in early summer of 2019 (when I bought my R750 fat tire step-over [aka WhiteyFord—r.i.p. Whitey] ), I would have purchased it instead-- quick like a bunny. [Jan. 2021 update: You may want to read this follow-up thread of mine (after finishing this post) before seriously considering this STUNNER LT torque sensor bottom bracket-equipped ebike" https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/ .. I know that I have learned a very serious lesson.. Either you, the consumer, learn, or you don't.. Your call..]
Anyway, if you Stunner LT owners are interested, cruise over to the “M2S Forum” https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/m2s-bikes/ and check out my 10 (soon to be 11) threads , all of which pertain to my journey thru the fascinating, and oft times frustrating, world of the Fat Tire ebike. Those threads are numbered in the title so you will be able to follow the chronological order of the postings. You will find that those many very long-winded threads just might contain some information that you will find useful in your Stunner LT world. Because my ebike is your ebike-- exactly..
One other note: the SWIFT is light enough (50 pounds) as to be able to be transported on a regular bicycle hitch-mounted rear rack. And, if you remove the 7 pound battery, you are even better off (as far as lifting, etc).
The 70+ pound STUNNER LT, on the other hand, is best used in conjunction with a rear hitch rack intended for a motorcycle: https://www.discountramps.com/foldi...6cn8UVoFaBzHALPo8NlVHHuejG_MwE-waAiLYEALw_wcB Or, maybe this one https://www.discountramps.com/motor...K-Qk3JX7T4W1lXgVofaLygOZRqiVuxSAaAmM9EALw_wcB . All motorcycle racks also include a loading ramp so you can roll your beast onto/off of the rack, Remember: the longer the loading ramp, (say, 6') the shallower the angle (a good thing).. In addition, most ebikes have a "walk" mode that will greatly ease the pushing factor. Just remember to really stay focused on the task at hand or you might roll the ebike off the side of the ramp/rack. Bummer deal, fer sure.
You will also want to consider buying this item so that you can have "fold up" capability for the rack : https://www.discountramps.com/hitch..._o8heHbzke61obrfJre8pb_4xoVATQgIaAmtpEALw_wcB .. If you're really feeling adventurous, consider mating one (or more) of these to the motorcycle rack for added stability/piece of mind (also google "motorcycle wheel chock" ): https://www.bing.com/shop?q=motorcycle+wheel+chock&FORM=SHOPTB
Sometimes ya just gotta think outside the box.
And if you need to haul 2 ebikes, mating two of this carrier should be an easy enough project-- after all, one rack is rated for 400 pounds-- that equals 5+ fat tire ebikes. Ya just have to “think outside the box” a little to make it/them work. Also, if your front fork has lockout capability (full rigid), use it because compressing the forks during transport is extra hard on the internal hydraulics.
Now on to my review of the 2020 SWIFT ebike.
First of all, I am 69 years old, 5'9” tall, and, when I walk out the front door to go bike riding, weigh 205 pounds (including a 20 pound backpack). I feel that every thread being posted concerning a persons evaluation of their own ebike should, as a courtesy, post their body weight. That way every reader can compare their own personal “information” accordingly.
I have another SWIFT thread on this forum that was posted early on ( Day 10--mile 264), so I won't duplicate that info on this thread.
Let me start by saying that this ebike is an absolute rocket.. It has so much torque that I can easily “throw gravel/almost pop a wheelie” whenever I go forward after a stop. That is a very good thing (power-wise), but it is also a very bad thing if you are riding in wet/ slippery/ snowy/ icy conditions. If you transition from straddling this ebike at a stop to proceeding forward, the seat tip will give you a VERY firm push into your lower back. The torque is rather overpowering for a bike this light. My two Fat Tire ebikes, due to their big fat tires and extra 20+ pounds of dead weight, do NOT suffer from this anomaly.
My two fat tire ebikes have me conditioned to blipping the throttle for a second or two whenever I get going from a stop. The 80+ pounds of those mighty beasts seem to appreciate the extra omph. This Swift rascal does NOT require any assistance at all. I originally named it “Blackie” because it is black. I have since morphed its name to “Black Momba” (after that cute lil' rascal featured in the movie Kill Bill, Vol. 2) because this bike behaves exactly the way that scaly varmit does (when it exits the suitcase)-- So dang quick as to be a serious hazard to the unprepared. In my defense, this SWIFT is EXACTLY what I was looking for in ebike #5-- a straight up hot rod/sports car/ hold on and pay attention little beast.
First of all, there seems to be a variety of definitions in regards to “Class III”.. My personal definition is that, using throttle only (no pedaling), on flat terrain, the ebike will attain a speed of 28mph, or nearly so. Period.. That is the only thing I look for (performance-wise) in all of my newer ebikes. The difference between 20mph throttle-only top speed and 28mph top speed can not be understated. I witnessed this difference first hand one day while out on the local bike path riding my p.o.s. 2018 Xtreme (brand) SEDONA (model)-- ebike #2-- with its' 20mph top speed. The very next day I ordered my 2018 M2S KUSH dual-suspension 28mph beast. There are a few other criteria too, but that item will do for now.
My two fat tire ebikes are awesome in their own way (thence the earlier shout-out to you Stunner LT owners), but they are pretty much laid back in the handling/ performance arena. Oh, they have plenty of power and can get up to a throttle-only speed of 28mph (class III) in a steady acceleration curve. However, this Swift can rocket up to that same 28 mph speed in ½ the time. Black Momba just seems to want to go-go-go. Being 30 pounds lighter in weight (50 vs. 80) is a big factor, too. And it handles just like a small sports car. I nearly self-destructed twice soon after getting it because I wasn't ready for the lightning response of both the speed AND the handling. But, lesson learned. Now I look forward to the excitement of my 50+ mile rides on it just because it requires so much more attention than do the two fat tire ebikes.
Just to give you an idea of how much torque the MXUS rear hub motor generates, I am currently on “plan C” (see below) in regards to my tire/inner tube setup.
Plan A: the original kevlar banded tire/inner tube setup which came on the Swift ebike. An excellent set-up, by the way..
Plan B: another pair of not-kevlar banded 1.75” tires coupled with Bell No-Mor-Flat solid “inner tubes”. I can't see using those really nice original tires because, with these solid inner tubes, flat tires will NEVER be a factor. The only problem with Plan B is that this Swift has so much power/torque that it literally separated the rear tire sidewall from the wire bead that has contact with the rim wall. I was amazed at the ability of this rear hub motor to produce such force.. What to do, what to do??
Plan C (my current setup): Since those Bell solid inserts are indeed solid rubber, I got six 1” long sheet metal screws and screwed 3 in each sides sidewall of the replacement rear tire and of the solid inner tube (the front tire is no problem because it is just along for the ride anyway-- no torque/power friction to deal with).. And, with 900 miles testing-- so far, so good. But time will tell. How weird was it for you to read the aforementioned Plan C?? Screws through the tire sidewall? Who da thunk it??
And if this screwy option proves to not be effective??
Plan D: I stumbled across these interesting ebike specific items https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HXW1KWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .. I even purchased them for “just in case” to go along with those excellent (and saved) original kevlar banded tires. If you do indeed read my many threads posted over on the M2S Forums site, you will be made aware of my own personal experience in attempting to mate (glue—in many forms) an original version Mr Tuffy tire liner to the inside of a fat tire ebike tire. Bummer deal fer sure. By the way, it appears that these ebike-specific MrTuffy liners use an epoxy mix setup to apply the liner to the tire. [Sidenote: since a tire has a limited lifespan (miles), is it possible to remove this Tuffy ebike tire liner from the old tire and re-apply it to the new tire?? And if so, what type of bonding agent is going to be required? ]..
In my case, should Plan D actually come to pass, I will just install BOTH tuffy ebike liner strips onto the rear tire because the front tire can/will use the solid tubes until the cows come home, so to speak. I will also use a HeavyDuty 1.5”-1.75” inner tube AND green Slime to complete the setup. And remember that, with ebikes, extra tire/wheel weight just does not matter-- the motor isn't affected. Believe me when I say that you never ever want to have to deal with a flat tire/rear wheel removal/replacement on a rear hub equipped ebike while out on a ride. So, I will do whatever I deem necessary to eliminate that possibility.
Also, if you look at the photo's at the end of my posting, you will (on the rear tire sidewall) see the three sheet metal screw heads (I put a piece of white tape by each one)and also the orange dot on the rim. That dot covers the valve hole so that water,etc stays out of the tire/rim. The 2018 Xtreme SEDONA in the one photo also has the same 1.75” tire/ Bell solid tubes front and rear. After 3,800 miles, its tires show zero wear and tear (mainly because it is so gutless, power-wise at 500 watts). No worry about ripping those tires.
So much for that item/info..
The battery on the SWIFT. (This is another of my requirements when looking to buy an ebike) You are very fortunate in that the battery used on this ebike (and also on the Stunner LT) is a Reention Dorado brand: https://www.dhgate.com/product/eu-us-tax-included-750w-48v-14ah-15ah-17/548521623.html?dspm=pcen.pd.newarrival.4.V7BVOPIwTqJmtKSxGZab&resource_id=548521623#mpdnewarr1-4-5|null::r3703464923 It is readily available worldwide and in two different lengths (390mm//15.3 inches and 460mm//18.1 inches-- the 460mm version is what you will need.) and in a variety of “ah” capacities. Think of the “ah” as a gas tank for a car. 14.5 gallons..16 gallons.. 17 gallons.. 21 gallons.. So, for the same $$$ you spend to upgrade/increase your gas tank by 3 or 7 “gallons” at the BikTrix website, you can use those same $$$ and purchase an ADDITIONAL battery with 14/15/17/21ah capacity. Think of it as a truck that has dual gas tanks—14.5ah plus 21ah equals 35.5 “gallons” total capacity. Granted that will require a means to carry the extra battery, but I will cover that item over on the M2S Forum when I post thread #11 in the near future. I ALWAYS have 2 batteries (one carried in a special type of backpack) whenever I go for a daily long distance ebike ride. You just have to remember to bring the key to remove the battery.
The Swifts 14.5ah version should be all you need. I can get between 34-40 miles per charge. Remember, my riding weight is 205 pounds AND I encounter only gradual climbs on most of my rides (as they usually are on concrete bike paths which parallel creeks). A person weighing 160 pounds should be able to go 50 miles. A person weighing 110 pounds should easily go 60 miles-- but you had better hang on and pay attention because dis bike really flies!! Also, my miles distance is attained with minimal use of the thumb throttle.
Of my 5 ebikes, four use the Reention Dorado 48v battery mentioned above. Of those 4 ebikes, only 1 uses the (short battery) 390mm length version. The other 3 ebikes use the 460mm length in either 14.5ah (the SWIFT) or 16ah (both of the M2S fat tire ebikes). And yes, all of these 460mm long batteries are indeed interchangeable. I can even use the shorter 390mm long battery in the longer holder because I built a combination bottom end bracket/heavy duty wrap (a neoprene/velcro knee brace)to keep the battery secured. Works like a friggin' champ, too.
By the way, On Oct 8th, I ordered a Reention Dorado 52volt/13ah battery in length 390mm for the p.o.s. SEDONA. It will be delivered in 3 days (Oct 28th) via FedEx. It cost me $362.00 delivered.. Not bad.. And I will also be able to use it on the three other (460mm length) ebikes because of my brace/adapter.
Other items:
The disadvantage of having multiple “toys” is that it is natural to think of them as an “apple-to-apple” comparison. This can/will really work against you when there are different components mounted onto your mighty steeds. I was spoiled by my two M2S fat tire ebike beasts (ebikes #3 and #4 respectively) because they were so much better (in every way) than my two Xtreme (brand) p-o-s ebikes (#1 and #2 respectively).
When this SWIFT arrived, I had to really work at adjusting my mindset to accepting that a sporty sports car (Swift) is so totally different than a full-size truck with off-road tires, etc (the two M2S fat tire ebikes). The large beasts would go along all day long using the BaFang 750w rear hub unit relying on PAS 2of9 with 3of9 only needed on climbs, The sporty Swift unit, using the MXUS 1,000 watt rear hub setup, needed to use PAS 5of9 on level ground and 8of9, or even 9of9, on any kind of even gradual climbs. Of course, the reality is that, with me weighing 205 pounds, the rear hub motor on the Swift just does not have the needed “omph” that is contained in the rear hub motor installed on the 2 fat tire ebikes. So, while I had originally planned on a 1,000 mile mark update, it is now 2,000+ miles and I am STILL dinking around with various options regarding the Swift power settings. I may even have a “bad” motor setup/torque setting unit(wherever the heck that item is located-- I don't have any “visual” indicators).. I'll check with support@BikTrix after I am satisfied that it is not my own doing causing the problem.
Other items:
Using larger/knobby tires: You are NOT going to be able to go much larger than the standard 1.75” tires. And, if you retain the stock fenders, you will be even further restricted. I'd say that a 1.9” knobby would be the absolute maximum.
Hydraulic brakes: These puppies are simply awesome. Such an excellent “touch/feel”. This Swift uses 160mm rotors. The two M2S beasts (and the Stunner LT) use 180mm rotors. In each case, the setup is perfect for that particular type ebike. By the way, DO NOT even consider buying an ebike (500 watts, or more) that uses a mechanical (wire strand) disc brake unit. The wire strand cable is CONSTANTLY stretching and you will be forever needing to fine tune the adjuster barrels located on the brake lever and at the main wheel housing. Both of my p-o-s Xtreme brand ebikes use mechanical/wire brake units.--total crap.. With hydraulic brakes: No Problem-o.. just go ride the ebike.
7-speed cassette: I have been riding mountain bikes since 1983.. Of all the different combinations (5/6/7/8/9 speeds), the 7-speed is my favorite (the M2S bikes use 8 speeds). And, with an ebike, you are not really needing to do a whole bunch of gear changing. I use 1,2,5,7(or 8) and that's about it-- the “e” part of an ebike does most of the “effort” anyway..
Computer Display Unit (CDU):
The physical dimensions of this display are perfect. What needs to be done is to split the screen into 4 boxes; one for mph.. one for PAS setting.. one for trip distance.. one for battery % / watts.. Thats all... Get rid of all the stupid bars, graphs, huge green circle, and THE COLOR RED... K.I.S.S.- keep it simple, stupid.. and be sure that the smallest digits to be used are 25% LARGER than the smallest units currently used (trip/watts/volts/battery%).. There's nothing like trying to decipher teeny little (and RED) digits through sunglasses on a bright sunny day.
For my closing opinion: I must honestly say that a person who is just a leisurely rider ( I refer to them as “sitting on the toilet and reading a magazine”)-- there are many of them out on the local bike paths AND they are always grinning -- should buy the STUNNER LT instead of this SWIFT ebike. For the same price, they will also be getting a bike with every component being readily available world-wide. If you google the MXUS 1,000 watt rear hub motor mounted on the Swift, you will find very little product information available. Also, the Stunner LT will give a much more genteel ride, due to those big fat 4” tires. All of my ebikes have a rear view mirror mounted on the left side handlebar bar-end. The Swift, due to its skinny high pressure (or, in my case, solid) tires, vibrates/shakes so much that it is often impossible to have a consistently clear picture of what is behind you. On the other hand, the two fat tire ebikes, with their big cushy tires, are always presenting me with a very clear non-shaky view..
On the Swift, when you turn to look back to the left, the bike darts to the left QUICKLY. Same goes for the right. So, the best way to negate the problem is to NOT look back-- thus, you need the mirror. But, if it is like viewing shaky puddin', then you are still “blind”.
The sports car handling/acceleration of the Swift is not for the leisurely ebike rider. No looking at/talking on your iphone -- 100% attention needs to be given at all times. The more time that is spent holding on to the handlebars will reward you by NOT crashing/ doing a face plant.
Ya just gotta remember that an ebike is NOT a bicycle.. It is a mechanized motorized contraption that presents the illusion of being a bicycle. When you are able to grasp/encompass that mindset, you will be able/willing to think outside the box and then make the ebeast work for you, not visa-versa..
There are now a myriad of ebikes to choose. The styles/ motor power/ components can be overwhelming. While it is nice to be dedicated to a particular brand, it is really in your best interest to keep an open mind.
You will further understand my thinking if you do go over and cruise through my many M2S forum postings-- I learned alot of lessons the hard way. But dang, I sure had fun.. And you can/will benefit from every one of them.
Thats all folks..
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