(Jan 2021 update: I am attaching the following link to my posting(s) located over at the BikTrix ebike companys' EBReviewforum site:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/
As of today, Jan 5th, it is a work-in-progress. It should make current M2S ebike owners really appreciate their very correct ebike purchase. I also realize that many potential ebike buyers cruise these forums as an aid in their search for the ideal ebike at the most practical price. They also need to be made aware of “brand service after the sale”, or lack/deception thereof. After all, an ebike purchase of $1,500+ is no small investment. You be the judge.)
ADDENDUM on Jan 10, 2020: Since I now have numerous threads posted (sorry about that), I want to let viewers know their chronological sequence, thus every thread title will begin with (# ).
I have an ADDENDUM posted on Dec. 10th. It is at the very end of the "Item #1" information.. I have also added some product links within the Item #1 contents.
The original Nov. 27th post begins below:
I have another write-up on this thread (M2S bikes) regarding my magnificent blue Kush toy. I now have 3,280 miles on this beast and, both mechanically and electrically, it has been absolutely bullet-proof. The ONLY maintenance item has been to remove the rear shifter cable at 1,000 mile mark and lube it up with blue waterproof boat axle grease because it began shifting erratically. Other than that, this bike has been a perfect gem. Even the hydraulic brake system has performed flawlessly. However, this write-up does address 2 items which I have had to deal with since my April 2018 delivery.
ITEM #1: Fat Tire tires and flats.
I have never really been a fan of fat tires because I assumed (rightfully so) that , due to their huge footprint, they would collect that much more road /trail fodder than a regular 2” or smaller bike tire.
My Kush has had 3 flats on the rear tire and 1 on the front tire. I absolutely hate getting flats. When I go on a 50-60 mile bike ride, I want to ride. I don't want to have to stop and dink with flat repair. I have 6 bikes. Three are old school (pre ebike) bikes and 3 are ebikes. One bike is a roadie bike using 700cc tires. Four are 26” wheel bikes. Two of those 4 are ebikes. Then, of course there is this fat tire monster. The 3 old school bikes all use Slime in the tubes and, as a result I have never had a flat while out on a ride. Nevertheless, I still carry all the required repair items (spare tube/ co2 cartridges/ inflator/ patches/ glue) on every ride for just in case.
In regards to the two 26” wheel ebikes: My very first ride on my 2017 Xtreme (brand) TrailMaster Elite hard tail ebike (purchased in Oct. 2017) resulted in a snakebite flat because I was transitioning back and forth over a local pothole (testing the front shock/suspension seat post).
It was when dealing with this dual flat that I was introduced to the very drastic differences between an old school bike rear wheel and a rear hub ebike wheel. I won't elaborate here. I did, however, make my initial foray into the world of “flat-free solid inner tubes”.
In December of 2017, I ordered an Xtreme 2018 Sedona dual-suspension ebike. That bike has never had a regular inner tube in the tires. From the lessons learned (there were many) while dinking with the 1st ebike, the Sedona was a godsend in regards to my piece of mind about NOT having to deal with a trail-side loss of air pressure-- because there is NO air. When I ride these first two ebikes, I don't carry any type of tire maintenance items. Yahoo!!
Now for the KUSH Fat Tire tires. The first of 4 flats (3 were on the rear wheel) was the result of an extended (into the tube area) spoke. The Kush had Slime installed, but, at this location, Slime won't do any good. Needless to say, I had a 3 mile walk back to the casa pushing a 60+ pound dead beast.
The 2nd time rear flat was a slow leak so I was able to quickly co2 inflate the tire and go like hell back to the casa. This was a 5 mile trip involving 2 re-inflates and that throttle-only 28+ mph speed was a godsend. I made it home otay. I also discovered that Slime, while performing flawlessly on smaller diameter fairly high pressure tubes in clogging the escaping air, is not adequate in a large diameter large volume lower pressure bike tube (a fat tire tube). While dealing with each of these loss of tire pressure situations, I thought how nice it would be if it was the front tire going flat instead of the super heavy (25+ pounds) rear wheel. I could just go into “wheelie mode” and walk the beast home. A piece of cake.
Well, flat #3 was the front tire. A catastrophic blowout at the end of a long descent. The side of the tire itself was destroyed. No inner tube repair this time. So the long walk began. But, hey, at least it was the front tire. Just wheelie that sucker for the walk home. WRONG!! Heavy (60+ pounds) and clumsy and cumbersome like you can't imagine. I finally got that sucker back home and it was then that “the process” began: how to go solid inner tube on a 4” fat tire?? I won't elaborate other than to say that I have spent at least $200 on yellow solid bike tubes (2 to a tire), 3” beach bum slick tires (black ones, blue ones) smaller-than-4” inner tubes. I tried everything imaginable in an effort to overcome the dreaded flat tire effect on a fat tire bike. Some experiments would be great for 100 miles and then things would go straight to heck. Time for plan b/c/d/e. Finally, things evolved into my current modus operandi. I have been using it for 700 miles and it works just fine and dandy.
Start with the front wheel since it is much lighter/easier to deal with. Use any lessons learned to make the very heavy/cumbersome wheel swap out a smoother operation. As a precursor, let me tell you that I, personally, REALLY like the 3” beach bum slick tires on my KUSH ebike. The original 4” knobbie tires are just too noisy to suit me. These 3” slicks are absolutely Q-U-I-E-T. Therefore, my remedy to flatproofing involves 3” ers.
Here are the ingredients. I have included the links as part of my Dec. 10th ADDENDUM :
a). one pair of 26”x 3” beach bum slick tires. (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
b). one pair of 26”x 2.5”Maxxis 559 Hookworm Urban wire bead tires. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Maxxis...le-Compound-/283145507309?hash=item41ecc991ed
c). one par of 26” x 2.1” tires (your choice of brand/style/etc). Mine were original on the Sedona.
d). one pair of Kenda Downhill 26” x 2.3/2.75” 2.25mm schrader valve INNER TUBES. These puppies are awesome, by the way. https://www.walmart.com/ip/LOT-OF-3...Schrader-Valve-Bike-Inner-Tubes-NEW/649278540
For those of you preferring to go with/stay with the 4” fat tires, just go 4” tires, 3” tires, 2.5” tires, Kenda inner tubes ( your 4” tire inner tubes are way too bulbous to use with any tire smaller than 4”).
Start out by mounting the largest tire on one side only. Now insert the 2nd largest tire inside the largest tire still using one side only. Now insert the smallest tire inside the 2nd largest tire using one side only. Now insert the partially inflated inner tube. Now start completely installing each tire. Inflate the inner tube. Game On, Baby!!
You might think that such a setup will be kind of heavy. Such is not the case. Plus, with an ebike, weight is not a factor like it is with an old school bike.
So, anyway, I have been using this exact setup for the past 700 miles without the addition of Slime because I wanted to see just how effective the basic installation would prove to be. I still take a complete flat repair kit (including a tube) with me on every ride for just in case. However, as I write this article, I figure that I may as well just go ahead and put some Slime in the tubes and hope/pray that nothing catastrophic ever occurs on my rides. I'll also stop carrying my repair items.
By the way, after one of my recent rides, I was scanning my tires looking for impaled “stuff” and sure enough, dead center on the rear tire was a galvanized nail head looking back at me. Since the shafts on these puppies are usually 1”-1.5” long, I was really dreading removing this sucker. But, I grabbed the needle nose pliers and began the slow withdrawal of the invader, listening intently for the hiss of escaping air. Luckily, the nail shaft had been severed and was a mere 1/2” long. No air escaped. Life was good. I filled the hole with silicone glue (or whatever). So, the fact that a 1/2” long intruder failed to penetrate to the inner tube means that I Win!! So, now, should you decide to, you can also be a winner. As a sidenote; I run 30psi air pressure in my tires because I ride solely on paved trails/ paths/ roads. I know that many fat tire bikers like to run much lower tire pressure-- even as low as 5 psi. You will just have to experiment to see what works.
Also, when dealing with the rear wheel, prior to trying to remove the wheel, go ahead and remove the disc brake main body (2 screws). The re-installation of your rear wheel will be a much smoother/simpler operation. Remember that you are already dealing with the chain/cogset/axle alignment. Do you really want to bend the disc as you manhandle that 25+ pound rear wheel?? Re-installation of the disc housing after successfully battling the other 3 items is simple as pie.
ADDENDUM posted on Dec. 10th: The aforementioned "recipe" should also work just fine and dandy for assembling a pair of dedicated STUDDED ice/snow tires. Too much fun..
Also, now would be a good time to customize your fat rim holes with decorative duct tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Duct-..._rd_wg=uABWB&refRID=CHDWFK9XMJZV5E8103HB&th=1
As for new rim strip material, buy the 2.88" wide heavy duty Gorilla tape. 2 wraps around the rim will suffice. I use both the custom duct tape and the Gorilla tape on both fat tire rims.
..End of Addendum..
That's it for Part One. Now on to Part Two.
ITEM #2:
You are now aware of my flat tire fiasco so, one day at around mileage 3,000, I'm 45 miles into a 60 mile bike ride. I don't know what I did/ran over, but suddenly I could feel the tell-tale wiggling symptoms of a tire loosing air. I stopped the mighty beast and checked both tires. Nothing wrong. So I re-mounted and started pedaling. Again the “feeling”. I stopped and this time examined the frame, etc. Sure enough, there it was: the seat tube had snapped clean in half. Nine inches from the top; right at the top of the control box (which is mounted on the rear of the seat tube). Bummer deal. This ain't good. Since I was still 15 miles from the condo, I had to form a logical thought which would get me home without further destroying my wonderful toy. Due to the rear suspension setup, the two pieces would be coming and going opposite each other as I progressed.
I finally surmised that, by lowering my (27.2mm) seat post all the way down, I could effectively negate the “wiggle” because the seat post extended below the break. Yahoo!! Go Bobby!! I knew that any pedaling might still exert additional stress on the frame because the Kush uses a 30.4mm seat post, but I use a 27.2mm seat post with a 27.2/30.4 sleeve that extends 3” down the seat tube. Therefore a certain amount of “flex” might still be present. But, Throttle-Only to the rescue. Helped by a very smooth riding surface for the duration of the adventure, I plopped my hienie down on to the way-too-low saddle, pushed that thumb throttle and went home at 20-28mph for 15 miles, never even having to spin a crank (pedal). So, I got back to the condo and then commenced to form a thought as to the final remedy for this breakage.
My 1st thought was: “oh boy, I'm gonna get a new bike ( it was only 6 months old)”. However, after further analysis, I deduced that I would NOT be getting a new bike, but a new bike frame.( I would later find that my assumption was unfounded . Apparently, a replacement ebike is offered at a discounted price..) I wasn't exactly crazy for either option because I was very, very happy with my lil' blue beastie buddy as it was finally built to MY satisfaction. Plus, there is no way that I want to disassemble/ de-electrify this complex machine. Old school bikes are no problem-o, but this ebike stuff: I don't think so.
I ordered this Kush in mid-January 2018 and it finally arrived from China in April. During that time lapse, I had LOTS of time to consider this and that for my newest toy. I couldn't know for sure that the stock 30.4mm seat post would be long enough, so I got on the internet and ordered a 450mm long unit for just in case. No way in heck was I gonna wait another day or six for a component after waiting almost ½ year for the dang bike. Naturally, at some point after the arrival of the 30.4mm seat post, I stumbled across the infamous 27.2mm-to-30,4mm seat post sleeve ( I have more than a dozen 27.2 seat posts. My 5 other bikes are all 27.2.). So, the new long 30.4mm post was put in my parts bin.
Fast forward to the broken seat tube incident: What to do, what to do...
First I get my metal banded tape measure device and insert it down the seat tube all the way and also inspecting for potential electrical wiring/connectors down in the depths. Nothing down there. Then I take my installed 27.2 seat post and measure how much excess beyond 4” below the tube top exists. I then measure the extra 30.4mm 450mm long seat post. I determine that, by using my pipe cutter tool, I would cut the 27.2 seat post at 4” below the seat tube top and then cutting/removing the saddle mounting portion of the 30.4mm post at a certain length , I would have a full seat tube length support tube. A piece of cake. Plus, the 30.4 seat post section is both a snug fit AND is light in weight while still being strong/rigid (after all, it is designed to support a persons weight). Having done all the above, I inspect the seat tube to be sure the upper part and the lower part are tightly pressed together. I then take a belt to secure them so separation/spreading does not occur during the “operation”. Next, I get the trusty drill and drill four holes, 2 above the break and 2 below the break. Then I get some metal screws and install them suckers. TaDa.. The operation was a success. By the way, the bike was turned upside down so the metal shavings wouldn't fall down into the bottom bracket area. I have ridden an additional 200 miles on the mighty beast since this predicament, and things are all working just fine.
Also, as soon as I fixed the KUSH, I did the seatpost operation on the SEDONA, too. I didn't have to drill holes/use screws in its case; I just dropped in the additional unit. By the way, practically every model of department store bicycle uses a 27.2 seatpost, be it aluminum or steel.
During the course of this Part 2 story, I remembered back a few years to when my Mongoose dual suspension mountain bike (WalMart special) had exactly the same breakage situation. I also fixed it by the additional seat-post support method. Worked just great then, too. (apparently, rear suspensions put ALOT of stress on the seat tube).
So, any of you folks riding any brand/model of dual suspension rear hub ebike may want to consider buying an additional seat post and dropping it down into your seat tube. You don't need to do any drilling, etc. The added rigidity will probably negate the chances of your mighty steed snapping in half at the seat tube like mine did. Lets face it, 60+ pound bikes, plus the riders weight (180-200 pounds), puts alot of stress/strain on any bike frame. I don't do any type of aerial lift-offs on my bikes. The rowdiest I ever get is “launching” off a curb.
Finally: My 2018 M2S Kush ebike really is Da Bomb. I cannot praise it highly enough. However, if I were to do everything all over again, I would just buy the 750 rear hub hard tail ebike instead ($200 less expensive). I'd then go ahead and install a suspension seat post on it. My Kush rear suspension shock requires the purchase of an air shock inflation pump. I wouldn't mind so much if the front shock fork was also an air-inflated item. But such is not the case..
So, thats it. I hope you got some decent information from this VERY long write-up.
Happy Holidays.
The End
[ POSTED on Nov. 30: There is an addendum farther down this thread ]
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...-sensor-bottom-bracket-price-is-200-00.40097/
As of today, Jan 5th, it is a work-in-progress. It should make current M2S ebike owners really appreciate their very correct ebike purchase. I also realize that many potential ebike buyers cruise these forums as an aid in their search for the ideal ebike at the most practical price. They also need to be made aware of “brand service after the sale”, or lack/deception thereof. After all, an ebike purchase of $1,500+ is no small investment. You be the judge.)
ADDENDUM on Jan 10, 2020: Since I now have numerous threads posted (sorry about that), I want to let viewers know their chronological sequence, thus every thread title will begin with (# ).
I have an ADDENDUM posted on Dec. 10th. It is at the very end of the "Item #1" information.. I have also added some product links within the Item #1 contents.
The original Nov. 27th post begins below:
I have another write-up on this thread (M2S bikes) regarding my magnificent blue Kush toy. I now have 3,280 miles on this beast and, both mechanically and electrically, it has been absolutely bullet-proof. The ONLY maintenance item has been to remove the rear shifter cable at 1,000 mile mark and lube it up with blue waterproof boat axle grease because it began shifting erratically. Other than that, this bike has been a perfect gem. Even the hydraulic brake system has performed flawlessly. However, this write-up does address 2 items which I have had to deal with since my April 2018 delivery.
ITEM #1: Fat Tire tires and flats.
I have never really been a fan of fat tires because I assumed (rightfully so) that , due to their huge footprint, they would collect that much more road /trail fodder than a regular 2” or smaller bike tire.
My Kush has had 3 flats on the rear tire and 1 on the front tire. I absolutely hate getting flats. When I go on a 50-60 mile bike ride, I want to ride. I don't want to have to stop and dink with flat repair. I have 6 bikes. Three are old school (pre ebike) bikes and 3 are ebikes. One bike is a roadie bike using 700cc tires. Four are 26” wheel bikes. Two of those 4 are ebikes. Then, of course there is this fat tire monster. The 3 old school bikes all use Slime in the tubes and, as a result I have never had a flat while out on a ride. Nevertheless, I still carry all the required repair items (spare tube/ co2 cartridges/ inflator/ patches/ glue) on every ride for just in case.
In regards to the two 26” wheel ebikes: My very first ride on my 2017 Xtreme (brand) TrailMaster Elite hard tail ebike (purchased in Oct. 2017) resulted in a snakebite flat because I was transitioning back and forth over a local pothole (testing the front shock/suspension seat post).
It was when dealing with this dual flat that I was introduced to the very drastic differences between an old school bike rear wheel and a rear hub ebike wheel. I won't elaborate here. I did, however, make my initial foray into the world of “flat-free solid inner tubes”.
In December of 2017, I ordered an Xtreme 2018 Sedona dual-suspension ebike. That bike has never had a regular inner tube in the tires. From the lessons learned (there were many) while dinking with the 1st ebike, the Sedona was a godsend in regards to my piece of mind about NOT having to deal with a trail-side loss of air pressure-- because there is NO air. When I ride these first two ebikes, I don't carry any type of tire maintenance items. Yahoo!!
Now for the KUSH Fat Tire tires. The first of 4 flats (3 were on the rear wheel) was the result of an extended (into the tube area) spoke. The Kush had Slime installed, but, at this location, Slime won't do any good. Needless to say, I had a 3 mile walk back to the casa pushing a 60+ pound dead beast.
The 2nd time rear flat was a slow leak so I was able to quickly co2 inflate the tire and go like hell back to the casa. This was a 5 mile trip involving 2 re-inflates and that throttle-only 28+ mph speed was a godsend. I made it home otay. I also discovered that Slime, while performing flawlessly on smaller diameter fairly high pressure tubes in clogging the escaping air, is not adequate in a large diameter large volume lower pressure bike tube (a fat tire tube). While dealing with each of these loss of tire pressure situations, I thought how nice it would be if it was the front tire going flat instead of the super heavy (25+ pounds) rear wheel. I could just go into “wheelie mode” and walk the beast home. A piece of cake.
Well, flat #3 was the front tire. A catastrophic blowout at the end of a long descent. The side of the tire itself was destroyed. No inner tube repair this time. So the long walk began. But, hey, at least it was the front tire. Just wheelie that sucker for the walk home. WRONG!! Heavy (60+ pounds) and clumsy and cumbersome like you can't imagine. I finally got that sucker back home and it was then that “the process” began: how to go solid inner tube on a 4” fat tire?? I won't elaborate other than to say that I have spent at least $200 on yellow solid bike tubes (2 to a tire), 3” beach bum slick tires (black ones, blue ones) smaller-than-4” inner tubes. I tried everything imaginable in an effort to overcome the dreaded flat tire effect on a fat tire bike. Some experiments would be great for 100 miles and then things would go straight to heck. Time for plan b/c/d/e. Finally, things evolved into my current modus operandi. I have been using it for 700 miles and it works just fine and dandy.
Start with the front wheel since it is much lighter/easier to deal with. Use any lessons learned to make the very heavy/cumbersome wheel swap out a smoother operation. As a precursor, let me tell you that I, personally, REALLY like the 3” beach bum slick tires on my KUSH ebike. The original 4” knobbie tires are just too noisy to suit me. These 3” slicks are absolutely Q-U-I-E-T. Therefore, my remedy to flatproofing involves 3” ers.
Here are the ingredients. I have included the links as part of my Dec. 10th ADDENDUM :
a). one pair of 26”x 3” beach bum slick tires. (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
b). one pair of 26”x 2.5”Maxxis 559 Hookworm Urban wire bead tires. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Maxxis...le-Compound-/283145507309?hash=item41ecc991ed
c). one par of 26” x 2.1” tires (your choice of brand/style/etc). Mine were original on the Sedona.
d). one pair of Kenda Downhill 26” x 2.3/2.75” 2.25mm schrader valve INNER TUBES. These puppies are awesome, by the way. https://www.walmart.com/ip/LOT-OF-3...Schrader-Valve-Bike-Inner-Tubes-NEW/649278540
For those of you preferring to go with/stay with the 4” fat tires, just go 4” tires, 3” tires, 2.5” tires, Kenda inner tubes ( your 4” tire inner tubes are way too bulbous to use with any tire smaller than 4”).
Start out by mounting the largest tire on one side only. Now insert the 2nd largest tire inside the largest tire still using one side only. Now insert the smallest tire inside the 2nd largest tire using one side only. Now insert the partially inflated inner tube. Now start completely installing each tire. Inflate the inner tube. Game On, Baby!!
You might think that such a setup will be kind of heavy. Such is not the case. Plus, with an ebike, weight is not a factor like it is with an old school bike.
So, anyway, I have been using this exact setup for the past 700 miles without the addition of Slime because I wanted to see just how effective the basic installation would prove to be. I still take a complete flat repair kit (including a tube) with me on every ride for just in case. However, as I write this article, I figure that I may as well just go ahead and put some Slime in the tubes and hope/pray that nothing catastrophic ever occurs on my rides. I'll also stop carrying my repair items.
By the way, after one of my recent rides, I was scanning my tires looking for impaled “stuff” and sure enough, dead center on the rear tire was a galvanized nail head looking back at me. Since the shafts on these puppies are usually 1”-1.5” long, I was really dreading removing this sucker. But, I grabbed the needle nose pliers and began the slow withdrawal of the invader, listening intently for the hiss of escaping air. Luckily, the nail shaft had been severed and was a mere 1/2” long. No air escaped. Life was good. I filled the hole with silicone glue (or whatever). So, the fact that a 1/2” long intruder failed to penetrate to the inner tube means that I Win!! So, now, should you decide to, you can also be a winner. As a sidenote; I run 30psi air pressure in my tires because I ride solely on paved trails/ paths/ roads. I know that many fat tire bikers like to run much lower tire pressure-- even as low as 5 psi. You will just have to experiment to see what works.
Also, when dealing with the rear wheel, prior to trying to remove the wheel, go ahead and remove the disc brake main body (2 screws). The re-installation of your rear wheel will be a much smoother/simpler operation. Remember that you are already dealing with the chain/cogset/axle alignment. Do you really want to bend the disc as you manhandle that 25+ pound rear wheel?? Re-installation of the disc housing after successfully battling the other 3 items is simple as pie.
ADDENDUM posted on Dec. 10th: The aforementioned "recipe" should also work just fine and dandy for assembling a pair of dedicated STUDDED ice/snow tires. Too much fun..
Also, now would be a good time to customize your fat rim holes with decorative duct tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Duct-..._rd_wg=uABWB&refRID=CHDWFK9XMJZV5E8103HB&th=1
As for new rim strip material, buy the 2.88" wide heavy duty Gorilla tape. 2 wraps around the rim will suffice. I use both the custom duct tape and the Gorilla tape on both fat tire rims.
..End of Addendum..
That's it for Part One. Now on to Part Two.
ITEM #2:
You are now aware of my flat tire fiasco so, one day at around mileage 3,000, I'm 45 miles into a 60 mile bike ride. I don't know what I did/ran over, but suddenly I could feel the tell-tale wiggling symptoms of a tire loosing air. I stopped the mighty beast and checked both tires. Nothing wrong. So I re-mounted and started pedaling. Again the “feeling”. I stopped and this time examined the frame, etc. Sure enough, there it was: the seat tube had snapped clean in half. Nine inches from the top; right at the top of the control box (which is mounted on the rear of the seat tube). Bummer deal. This ain't good. Since I was still 15 miles from the condo, I had to form a logical thought which would get me home without further destroying my wonderful toy. Due to the rear suspension setup, the two pieces would be coming and going opposite each other as I progressed.
I finally surmised that, by lowering my (27.2mm) seat post all the way down, I could effectively negate the “wiggle” because the seat post extended below the break. Yahoo!! Go Bobby!! I knew that any pedaling might still exert additional stress on the frame because the Kush uses a 30.4mm seat post, but I use a 27.2mm seat post with a 27.2/30.4 sleeve that extends 3” down the seat tube. Therefore a certain amount of “flex” might still be present. But, Throttle-Only to the rescue. Helped by a very smooth riding surface for the duration of the adventure, I plopped my hienie down on to the way-too-low saddle, pushed that thumb throttle and went home at 20-28mph for 15 miles, never even having to spin a crank (pedal). So, I got back to the condo and then commenced to form a thought as to the final remedy for this breakage.
My 1st thought was: “oh boy, I'm gonna get a new bike ( it was only 6 months old)”. However, after further analysis, I deduced that I would NOT be getting a new bike, but a new bike frame.( I would later find that my assumption was unfounded . Apparently, a replacement ebike is offered at a discounted price..) I wasn't exactly crazy for either option because I was very, very happy with my lil' blue beastie buddy as it was finally built to MY satisfaction. Plus, there is no way that I want to disassemble/ de-electrify this complex machine. Old school bikes are no problem-o, but this ebike stuff: I don't think so.
I ordered this Kush in mid-January 2018 and it finally arrived from China in April. During that time lapse, I had LOTS of time to consider this and that for my newest toy. I couldn't know for sure that the stock 30.4mm seat post would be long enough, so I got on the internet and ordered a 450mm long unit for just in case. No way in heck was I gonna wait another day or six for a component after waiting almost ½ year for the dang bike. Naturally, at some point after the arrival of the 30.4mm seat post, I stumbled across the infamous 27.2mm-to-30,4mm seat post sleeve ( I have more than a dozen 27.2 seat posts. My 5 other bikes are all 27.2.). So, the new long 30.4mm post was put in my parts bin.
Fast forward to the broken seat tube incident: What to do, what to do...
First I get my metal banded tape measure device and insert it down the seat tube all the way and also inspecting for potential electrical wiring/connectors down in the depths. Nothing down there. Then I take my installed 27.2 seat post and measure how much excess beyond 4” below the tube top exists. I then measure the extra 30.4mm 450mm long seat post. I determine that, by using my pipe cutter tool, I would cut the 27.2 seat post at 4” below the seat tube top and then cutting/removing the saddle mounting portion of the 30.4mm post at a certain length , I would have a full seat tube length support tube. A piece of cake. Plus, the 30.4 seat post section is both a snug fit AND is light in weight while still being strong/rigid (after all, it is designed to support a persons weight). Having done all the above, I inspect the seat tube to be sure the upper part and the lower part are tightly pressed together. I then take a belt to secure them so separation/spreading does not occur during the “operation”. Next, I get the trusty drill and drill four holes, 2 above the break and 2 below the break. Then I get some metal screws and install them suckers. TaDa.. The operation was a success. By the way, the bike was turned upside down so the metal shavings wouldn't fall down into the bottom bracket area. I have ridden an additional 200 miles on the mighty beast since this predicament, and things are all working just fine.
Also, as soon as I fixed the KUSH, I did the seatpost operation on the SEDONA, too. I didn't have to drill holes/use screws in its case; I just dropped in the additional unit. By the way, practically every model of department store bicycle uses a 27.2 seatpost, be it aluminum or steel.
During the course of this Part 2 story, I remembered back a few years to when my Mongoose dual suspension mountain bike (WalMart special) had exactly the same breakage situation. I also fixed it by the additional seat-post support method. Worked just great then, too. (apparently, rear suspensions put ALOT of stress on the seat tube).
So, any of you folks riding any brand/model of dual suspension rear hub ebike may want to consider buying an additional seat post and dropping it down into your seat tube. You don't need to do any drilling, etc. The added rigidity will probably negate the chances of your mighty steed snapping in half at the seat tube like mine did. Lets face it, 60+ pound bikes, plus the riders weight (180-200 pounds), puts alot of stress/strain on any bike frame. I don't do any type of aerial lift-offs on my bikes. The rowdiest I ever get is “launching” off a curb.
Finally: My 2018 M2S Kush ebike really is Da Bomb. I cannot praise it highly enough. However, if I were to do everything all over again, I would just buy the 750 rear hub hard tail ebike instead ($200 less expensive). I'd then go ahead and install a suspension seat post on it. My Kush rear suspension shock requires the purchase of an air shock inflation pump. I wouldn't mind so much if the front shock fork was also an air-inflated item. But such is not the case..
So, thats it. I hope you got some decent information from this VERY long write-up.
Happy Holidays.
The End
[ POSTED on Nov. 30: There is an addendum farther down this thread ]
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