1000w at 750w setting.

Jim 1954

New Member
I have a Voilamart 1000w with a 48v 13 ah LG battery on a Murtisal "MB" frame. The motor is rated at 1000 watts but is wired to 750 watts to make it street legal. How is this motor better than one that is rated for 750 watts? I can get about 28 mph sitting erect. My range seems to be about 1.3 hours, but I am not sure of that. Does the unused power offer any benefit? It has cadence sensors, not torque sensors. Also, I read that installing a torque sensor is fidgety and it is easily knocked out of adjustment. What are your thoughts on that? I weigh 220 lbs and live in a mostly flat city.
 
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Motor wattage numbers are all BS. There is a nominal rating and also a maximum draw. What does your motor draw at speed going up a grade? Probably 1,200+. There is no wiring change to make it 1000 or 750. It’s how the controller is programmed.
 
The blue wire in the controller is not joined, which I understand limits the output to 750w. I realize that wattage numbers can be bs, I am hoping there is still an answer, though.
 
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No advantage to more watt potential if you never use it. The controller needs the ability to use a torque sensor, you can’t just randomly add one. Some fully enclosed torque sensors are pretty robust. Some are just an open disc and sensor. Put 1,700 miles on an open style on one bike, never touched it. Have the same one with 1,300 miles on an ETrike, never touched it.
 
No advantage to more watt potential if you never use it. The controller needs the ability to use a torque sensor, you can’t just randomly add one. Some fully enclosed torque sensors are pretty robust. Some are just an open disc and sensor. Put 1,700 miles on an open style on one bike, never touched it. Have the same one with 1,300 miles on an ETrike, never touched it.

Thanks. Good to know. I am considering putting a switch on the blue wire for hills. I have wanted a torque sensor since I got the bike last year, but was afraid it would be a PIA. I need to research my controller to see if can handle a torque sensor.
 
No advantage to more watt potential if you never use it. The controller needs the ability to use a torque sensor, you can’t just randomly add one. Some fully enclosed torque sensors are pretty robust. Some are just an open disc and sensor. Put 1,700 miles on an open style on one bike, never touched it. Have the same one with 1,300 miles on an ETrike, never touched it.

Rich, I have to disagree a little. I agree there's not going to be a LOT of difference, but thinking there will be some.

A motor rated for 1000w nominal as compared to a 750w nominal (without getting into the mechanical differences), is going to have a little more torque available. An example might be if you are motoring along with your 1000w motor while pulling 750w. say, and you're approaching a slight incline. The 1000w may be able to just motor right over that incline with no increase in power necessary, where the 750w, in order to stay up with the 1000w next to it, WILL have to add a little power.

That extra little bit of power added while riding the 750 is the difference between those motors with both pulling 750w, all else being equal. Obviously, the 1000w motor is able to produce more power for a longer amount of time than the 750w would as well (all else being equal).

Controllers CAN limit the amount of power to the motor too. In the case of the OP's question, where power to the motor is being limited to 750 watts (from the available 1000 watts), there is no noticeable difference UNTIL you compare the available difference in potential power available (torque) 750 watts vs. 1000 watts. If the motor has all the power you'd ever need while limited to 750 watts, all is fine and dandy.

There would likely be a difference in range (less) if the rider had the full 1000w available and was using it on occasion - to climb a hill or cross a busy street as quickly as possible for instance. THAT would be why I would remove the 750w limit. The switch on the blue wire might be a good plan....
 
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