Search results

The nipples are hex shaped & burs went right through the rim original tape. Since making a rim "tape" from an old tube, I have not had a flat. Scooter, A picture of the whole bike in in my icon.

A car is no challenge, motorcycle was a lot of fun, & I think an ebike would certainly have its challenges & be fun!

If you Google it you will find some good videos of it. It is Hwy 129 in Swain County, North Carolina. Right at the Tennessee boarder. 318 turns in eleven miles.

I'd convince my wife to follow me. My cars collision avoidance system would keep her 40 feet behind me. You run it just like you would any road. Wear bright yellow safety vest & "Own your lane!" I could average 15 miles an hour for eleven miles even with 318 wonderful cut backs. That would be...

I would image the NW end and going down Hill(s) toe SE end would be the best direction to go. I'd like to do it.

I stay away from metallic brake pads. I find them noisy, and have no perceptional performance improvements. I would rather have a faster wearing pad, than a pad that wears the roasters faster. Just an opinion here!

Ended up not being bad. PAS/ display switch was the problem.

I too, had to dremel the weld due to a couple of burs on the rear.

I took a one patch old tube, and made a band to cover the rim. I put this under the stock rim band. Cut the old tube to make a new band. Glue the ends of the tube together with about 2 inch overlap pulled mildly tight. Glue just like putting a patch on a tube.

Check out my recent post on this mistery. I would be looking for a burr that will be on a Spoke nipple at the location of the hole in your tube from the valve stem

Stock rims from rad. The nipples on front and rear of the bikes rims have had burs that I removed. Back has not had a flat in 1200 miles. The front has had 3 flats in the last 1200 miles. I have over eight flats in 3000 miles all with holes on the Rim side of the tire. And all of them at the...

Same here, I patch a tube once. The nipple with a bur cut through the liner. I've now added a tube refitted for the rim and under the orange origanal liner. I've dremeled off the burs all the way around the rim twice now. When you get a hole inside the patch from the last repair, something is wrong.

I have the original, & now made one with an old inner tube. Plus I've demeled the nipple edges.

Where is the hole, when you have frequent flats? 90% of mine have been on the rim side of the tube. Burrs on the spoke nipples. This is hard to accept.

Discounted for repeat business. I've always had outstanding service & treatment by Rad.

Thank you everyone. I will look into the Bolton kit. My Rad controller is on the way. For $56, I felt like that would be the most cost effective path. Birthday month is September, nice present to myself.

I think you are right on. It may not harm the display since it draws only what it needs. A problem really develops when the display wants more amps than what's available.

I know there are probably plug & play NON-OEM controllers out there. I just don't trust finding one myself. Rad offered me free shipping & a good reduction in price for being loyal. ~ $50 delivered for an OEM controller. Their support has always been outstanding for me.

I'm not interested in an upgrade. Is there a source other than Rad to purchase a replacement controller that is plug & play? A part number would be helpful. This is my second controller that needs replacing in 3000 miles.