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I wanted to give an update since I recently passed 1000 miles. One thousand must be the magic number, because I hear the gears much less now than I used to. It seems to only happen between 18-18.5 MPH now, and I suspect with a few hundred more miles even that will improve.

For me the sound occurs between 16-19mph. It's very annoying because within that range is a common cruising speed for me. I hate to be that ebiker that sounds like a weed wacker riding down an otherwise pleasant multi-use path.

Agree. Cable locks are extremely susceptible to theft. One snip with a $20 cable cutter that fits in a backpack and your bike is gone. Please protect your investment with a u-lock or chain. Nice pic otherwise! :)

Helmet's are a surprisingly controversial topic when it comes to cycling safety. This video is only an overview, but it touches on the main points. In short: Cycling isn't dangerous -- it's the environment we are forced to cycle in that is dangerous.

Search this page for "temperature" for some useful info. http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html It varies from motor to motor, but it sounds like in general you don't run any risk of frying the motor unless you are continuously putting a lot of power through the motor (~1000 Watts for...

Perpendicular worked best for me, at least until the mechanism wore in and it was no longer necessary. I scratched the casing a few times with the "slam" technique, but realized that I could put the battery in normally, then apply a strong force parallel to the ground until I heard a soft click...

Yes

Whoops, of course. I suspect my display overestimates the voltage.

@SlowRider what voltage is 80% on your 19ah battery? My 19ah battery will peak around 56.5 V, which seemed to disagree with a table I see pop up around these forums every once in a while... and I just looked at the advanced display on my bike and it showed 4000+ Wh, which makes absolutely no sense.

As far as power is concerned... I tried to find the source, but Juiced posted either here or on their FB page that the 52V RCS will accelerate off the line a bit faster than the 52V CCS. It didn't sound like there was a meaningful difference for the 48V battery packs.

I would think that they would point you to what little documentation came with the bike. It clearly says within there something along the lines of "display is not to be used for scientific measurements, some standard measurement error is expected."

I noticed the same peculiarity this week with my CCS where I topped off the charge, rode for 20+ miles mostly in level 1, and didn't see the battery indicator lose any bars. Though I did notice the voltage drop from about 56.5 to 51 V. I have the 19.2Ah battery. My guess is the battery bar...

Couldn't you get the battery repacked, granted the case wasn't compromised but one of the cells gave out?

I'm copying and pasting this reply by @Tora Harris to a related thread:

Given: You are looking for a sub $2k urban commuter. You have a hilly, 26-mile commute. The most significant difference between the two bikes is the battery. Then I would recommend sticking with the CrossCurrent S and the bigger battery. You're on a budget, and the battery is the most...

Well... for $2k less you can get twice as many Wh on the CCS battery. The motors are a little more difficult to compare given the different drive systems, but I don't think you're going to be disappointed with 12-16 more Volts on the Juiced battery and a 650W motor. It sounds like you...

Could you be more specific than "all the information" ? What exactly are you looking for?

I also received my tracking number yesterday with a slated delivery date of April 9 (Pre-ordered around Feb 20). I wasn't surprised given that I am having it shipped to eastern Washington state, but if a shipment to LA is also arriving "March 9", then it makes me think it's possible Juice may be...