Search results

For that budget you might be better off finding a cheap “host bike“ and fitting a BBSHD mid drive kit https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbshd-1000w-middrive-kit/

I can see the functional reason why they are doing it this way, which is to keep the fixed take up pulley as close to the suspension pivot point as possible, but I would have thought that 2x spring loaded take up pulleys on a pivoting carrier mounted mid-way under the chainstay would give the...

I also question the tensioning methods that manufacturers are using, which appear to compromise the recommendations of Gates in regards to belt handling and tension Most tensioning methods I have seen apply tension to the outside of the belt with a pulley, which bends the belt back on it self...

They are probably designed to prevent sliding off the back when you are on a steep climb

Too many?? N+1 ;)

Highly recommend these MicroSkin / TL-Easy in 700 x 40C https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_supreme Ive been using these for a couple of years now and very happy with them Fast, grippy and comfortable, with good mileage

BINGO! https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/what-is-your-dream-ebike.26803/#post-182181 When does it go into production

I guessed you had a 911. What MY

When do you expect to have it delivered, or have you already received it

Not surprised the signs are gone.....they would make a unique collectable

Your current avatar suggests you were in trouble with the police :eek:

@E-Wheels Any hints leading to an easier way are welcome. As I explained (assumed) and as @PaD has confirmed

Hi EBR team, I notice a lot of members have interesting and off beat handles and avatars, so I have always been curious as to their origins Tell us about your username and avatar and why you chose them, and let’s have some fun I decided on my handle as I thought it was appropriate for an ebike...

This

Hi TS25, Sorry, I’m not meaning to be argumentative, but I don’t understand the problem From what I can see from the photos posted, the chainguard doesnt need to be removed to take the chainring off the spider Once the chainring (incl chainguard) if off you can get access to the chainguard...

Looks to me like there will be more than enough clearance to do the job, as chainrings are about 3mm thick There’s a quick way to find out if you have the correct size Allen key.....are you feeling lucky? I don’t wish to talk you into doing something that you may not be comfortable with, but on...

You shouldn’t need to get to both sides, as the chainring bolts are removed from the outside Are you able to post a couple photos from each side and from the bottom of the motor to show how much clearance you have to allow the chainring to drop off the spider

Hi TS25, With all due respect, I disagree The video you linked shows the tools referenced in your post #25 being used to remove the complete spider arm assembly (with the chainring still attached) I don’t own a Vado, but in my experience you don’t have to remove the spider arm assembly to change...

Oh really....why do they sell them? https://www.bike24.com/p2238251.html https://www.ebay.com.au/c/22019407552 Do it yourself, it’s easy enough All you need is a 5 or 6 mm Allen key I’m sure YouTube can give you some guidance if you need help

What about this one https://www.topeak.com/global/en/news/65-tetra-rack-series