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I think they're starting to show what they really are: just a Chinese company reselling their stuff under a German brand.

So basically I'm trying to find a specialised centre than can try to -at least- diagnose what is wrong the motor and it's worth fixing and I'm having unexpected issues. No center I asked said they can fix it since they don't either deal with hub motors or with NCM (even thought it's probably a...

Does anyone know who I have to contact to reach leon cycle? The European store is not answering, alto the same seller on Amazon.it where I bought the bike is not responding.

My Moscow motor has been making this weird noise at about 20km/h and disappears at higher speeds. You can hear it from this video from 8 to 12 seconds. Any ideas? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AMs-reeoz3gB06U_wDxdFLhDovsyyXv3/view

Hi, what kind of tools do you need to remove the crankset and access the sensor?

My issue hasn't disappeared, is your issue still fixed as of today? I'm gonna have to try myself after I buy the right tools.

That's exaclty my issue, have you checked if the PAS sensor hasn't moved? Mine did move but then the issue came back so I'm not sure what it is at this point but I can assure you even a small movement to the outer part of the pedal can cause that.

Didn't fix the issue...

Good tip, I'll try that!

Hello, I took the bike to a repair shop, they cleaned all the contact and cables, they removed and put back again the sensor and still the problem hasn't been solved. What really puzzles is why the sensor would cut off power for less than second (it's not 2 seconds like I wrote before) when I...

Hello, I washed the NCM Moscow with the pressure washer and since then (or I think it was since then) 90% of times I go over a bump/hole or I switch the front gear the motor power is switched off immediately (imagine that when you're on trail uphill) for 2 seconds even if I don't stop pedalling...

Absolutely, it should not be done on a regular basis even though the BMS and controller do a great job at protecting the battery. I wonder if not reaching 4.2V per cell but 54.1V total is also done for longevity.

It should use the full voltage of 54.6 unless it's done on purpose by the bms to prolong the lifespan.

As for the opposite question, my charger just showed the green light so the charging has stopped, however the battery is only at 54.1V. What's happening here?

I think on DasKit displays you can't change that. At least on the L7 one.

I don't think that with 4A charge on a >13Ah battery you're in the danger zone. it's not even to close to 1C.

15A controller for sure. Also would a 48V controller handle a cut off voltage for a 52V battery?

Yes DasKit, doesn't the controller handle only current though? So you would only get slight more power because of higher voltage?

Still have to see if you can even use that high voltage with the controller?

Don't know, I don't even know what brand is used inside the original batter pack 😅