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Rad City, with spare battery...all road riding, running 80/90# in the Kenda, 50t. chainring, drop bar extensions. A great road rider...love

Back to my "bible", Effective Cycling, by John Forester..and this from memory...We are all only safe in traffic because we mainly do what's expected of us...the painted line is just that...we all conform to every other driver's expectations, and we are safe because of this. I just ordered a new...

No.

Scratch the "drag free", and it's a Rad City at $2k with a spare 48v.14Ahbattery. The drag is regen capability, and mine doesn't kick until Pas3 or above.

FWIW....I've asked whether or not the mounting areas are 22.2mm...the concept is very interesting. I assume the foam is removable so controls could be mounted. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DZX26B1/ref=cm_wl_huc_continue

Just put a 50t on my City roadster, giving me a 92" top gear, and keeping the rest the same, just bumped down a notch. Found a good USA made one here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UMCKES/ref=twister_B07B72KZD7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Looks much better than the pic.

Well, on a rainy day, I'm in the garage practicing what I'm preaching...moving the drop extensions in, and leaving a handswidth of flat, I'm getting about 24", which I'm going to tape up tomorrow and try. This gives me a 1.5" overhang on both sides...rather than cut it off, I'm going to tape it...

I installed drop extensions, which could even be moved inboard a bit. All road riding... Mine are also 27", and I'm considering the same, but my hybrid frame geometry might call for a wider stance for control...I just don't know. The flat bar needs space to mount two brake levers, and in my...

LOL...biking with crampons....wonder why all those flats......?

I'm rarely in the drops, and country roads don't have many times when the brakes need to be covered, but I can ride the tops, and reach the brakes with a finger or two. The discs are so much better than the rim brakes I had before, that even a two thumbs squeeze can be used. The main benefit is...

It all depends on your riding surface...if it's crappy, get tire and suspension help, tor sure! I can pick my roads, and rarely encounter a pothole, much less hit it, or even a pebble...I can stand on the pedals to minimize bridge and railroad bumps, so I go for narrow 90# tires and lock the...

Yes! That's much better...

Here's a couple: You know, alternatively, I could take out the 20mm extenders and use them to extend the drops. I'd just have to move everything inboard a bit, which is easy. It does seem pretty wide. Taking your advice and moving everything inward 3" total, 1.5" per side.

The PB Blaster chain/cable lube led to a black chain. Now that it's clean, White Lightening wax lube seems to keep things a bit nicer.

Since my magnet ring disaster (it doesn't like brake cleaner), I had to invest in a crank puller to install the replacement magnet ring. Aha! the perfect opportunity to put on a 50t. chainring. Found a good one here...

For you engineer types...I've understood why the magnet wheel exploded...it mounts by sprung plastic fingers to the crank, therefore was under compression when the solvent hit it.

I bike for pleasure, and my sense of well being and stamina are much improved..I lose thirty years on the bike. Weight..stable..this is my heavy German Band Oktoberfest time, and I have a full liter stein while I play for 3-4 hours.

Count to six-one thousand, in other words six seconds, or look at a watch dial. Count revolutions and multiply by ten. Works for pulse, too.

Is there no youtube video?

I try to give the LBS a chance...went in for a 50 t. chainring...they had a 46t mislabeled as 48, and said they couldn't even ORDER a 50t, as it showed out of stock! So I went home, and you know the rest...it'll be here tomorrow.