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An 11sp mountain bike cassette will fit. They are the same width as the 10sp cassettes. You just can’t buy a road bike 11sp cassette since it requires a wider hub (and different shifter and derailleur).

I converted my Cross Current to 10sp Deore XT with a 12-28 cassette. Most of the mountain bike 11sp cassettes have a pretty wide range. I prefer a narrower range for high speed cruising without big changes in cadence when I shift.

For the record, I predicted that they would sell a CCX with the smaller 52V/13ah battery from the Scrambler at a lower price point :)

I have an MTX rack on my original Cross Current. They have adjustable rails so that you can push the rack farther back. They also sell longer rails although those might cause the rack to be angled down if you used them on the Cross Current.

All it took for me was getting stuck 30min from home in pouring rain once. I ordered fenders as soon as I got home.

The base Camp Scrambler comes with a 52V/13ah battery for $1799. They offer it with the 52V/19.2ah battery for $2399. So if you use that cost differential with the CCX you could see them offering it with a 52V/13ah battery for $1699 which was the same price as the base CCS. The 52V/13ah battery...

Yes, the controllers are interchangeable. It’s literally the same bike with a slightly different motor and a bigger (more expensive) 52V battery. The real question IMO is whether Juiced will offer cheaper versions of the CCX/RCS with smaller batteries like they do with the Scrambler. It’s...

Direct quote from your link: “We sourced a custom spec 750 Watt geared hub motor that is not found on any other e-bike. The special high speed copper winding setup is intelligently driven by an upgraded 9-transistor controller peaking at 20 Amps..”

What is your evidence? Somebody posted a picture here of the warranty replacement controller Juiced Bikes sent them for their CCX and it was this exact 20A controller. Another CCX owner in that thread chimed in and said: “I think (hope?) the CCX controller is just a CCS controller with updated...

Look at the web page. This is the same controller Juiced sent to an owner as a warranty replacement for their Cross Current X. They posted a picture and it showed that it was a 20A peak controller. I’m pretty sure the 25A number is the “overboost” feature that that Cross Current has always had...

It seems like the CCX has the same controller as the CCS so Juiced could take the 52V/13ah battery from the Scrambler and use it to sell a cheaper version of the CCX. It probably doesn’t make a lot of sense for them to continue building legacy 48V batteries at this point. Another possibility is...

Surprised that screw made it through the 5mm SmartGuard. Took a similar looking screw through my Marathon Almotion last week. I use tubes and it was still holding air until I started trying to remove the screw. First flat I’ve had since I got the bike and close to 10k miles on the Almotions...

I live in Santa Monica and ride in the same area. I don’t commute but I do ride my bike daily. If you continue to have issues you might look into a hub motor e-bike. I’ve heard that they are simpler and generally better suited for high speed commuting. You won’t run through chains and cassettes...

I took what looks like a drywall screw through my rear 28x2” Marathon Almotion last week. That’s the only thing that could puncture my Almotion tires in about 10k miles. I ordered a 28x2.15” Almotion tire and tried to install it on the rear but it rubs on my Blackburn fenders. It might fit in...

The scrambler taillight (powered off of the battery) uses the connector is the same as the headlight so all you’d need is one of those y-splitter cables plus an extension run to the back...

Same here, I opened a support ticket for my 17.4ah battery and it looks like the pins are pushed back. They are charging me $80 to diagnose it. I already replaced the male connector when I upgraded to the CCS controller and there was no change. Fortunately I’ve been able to ride my 500wh battery...

https://www.ortlieb.com/us/service/technical/rack-lock/ http://www.ibera.info/products_list.php?cID=1

I use a 72V Cycle Satiator. If you own two bikes that charge at different voltages that is what I would recommend. Cheapest option to charge to 52V @ 80% would be something like this (although it won’t really work on the 48V Cross Current.)...

I’m not aware of any formal test you can do. The only way to recalibrate your range expectations is to fully charge the battery and ride it until you start to feel the low voltage cutoff. If you charge your battery to 100% you only get about 400-500 cycles before you’ve lost 50% of the battery...

If you have the step-thru frame it won’t fit the 17.4ah battery. If that is the battery in your profile picture that looks exactly like my 10.4ah battery. I also own a 17.4ah battery and it’s quite a bit bulkier and requires an XLR cable to charge. The bars on the display are pretty inaccurate...