Seth prefers Schrader valves

If you look carefully at the inner part of the valve core it is flat on two sides, which lets you use a valve core tool to remove the whole assembly.

I don't think that I had any flats?
I'm thinking that there wasn't a removable valve core, and the core with the nut was installed in the valve then attached to the inner tube.

I never had a valve unscrew, because I don't think I had one?

I can't picture myself not unscrewing the valve either by accident or on purpose?
I was already removing valve cores from Schrader valves at the time, so I probably would have thought to look?

A Presta valve without a removable valve core would be a lot less of a PITA, other than having to replace the inner tube if the valve fails.
 
I wonder who of you uses a Schrader valve on the tubeless setup :D
One of main reasons of the removable core in good Presta valves is to be able to inject the sealant either into the tyre (tubeless) or into the inner tube (tubed).
Also, you "shoot" a tubeless tyre onto the rim with the valve core removed. For this reason, good tubeless Presta valves have the valve core removal tool in the valve cap.

Presta valves (tubeless or on the inner tubes) can be bought in various lengths. The reason is the rim height can be very different on different wheels. While the Schrader valve height is always the same.
 
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Both would work fine to setup as tubeless, remove the core, fil it up with the syringe and put the nozzle of the compressor into the valve stem, pop the tire into its seating and put the valve back in place.
 
I bought these valve caps with a built-in valve core tool,..

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They've got a seal inside too,..

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They're all supposed to seal. Schrader had been making pneumatic valves (for applications like life preservers and diving equipment) for decades when the Michelins demonstrated the inner tube. Unlike the Presta, his valve was designed for inner tubes. A year later, he patented the sealing cap as a second line of defense.

Metal key caps used to be common. Then they went to plastic. Going back 40 years, it seemed that valves all came with plain caps. I didn't know why. I'd buy packs of metal key caps.

Four years ago, it annoyed me that bicycle tires seeped so fast. I read online that sometimes a car tire will lose air with no evidence of leak, and the solution is to tighten the valve core to spec with a torque tool. It made sense to me. Valve cores use harder, slicker seals than the rubber once used, so they probably needed more torque. IIRC, the old spec was 2 foot pounds, but I could't find the new spec. I bought a torque tool and found that it clicked at 4.8 foot pounds, as well as I could measure. So the spec is probably 5.

You can apply that much with a screwdriver-type valve core tool but not by holding a cap between your fingers. That explains why those caps are no longer original equipment.
 
I never had a valve unscrew, because I don't think I had one?

Any working Presta valve has a valve core. You can't keep everything full of air without a valve core in place.

On a lot of inner tubes the valve core is not removable. A lot of the lightweight TPU tubes don't have removable cores.

If you like screw-on pump heads (like Lezyne pumps have) you will discover that they can sometimes unscrew the Presta valve core. On the other hand, other types of pump heads are a lot more likely to bend the Presta valve core and render it unusable. So you kind of need to pick your poison.

Sometimes metal valve caps can also stick to the valve core and remove it when you remove the valve cap. Ooops.

A lot of these problems can be more or less mitigated by making sure to keep your valve cores on tight. Or you can carefully use a tiny amount of purple Loctite on the core.
 
On a lot of inner tubes the valve core is not removable. A lot of the lightweight TPU tubes don't have removable cores.

That's what I was thinking.

It looked to me like the only way to remove the core, was to remove the lock nut, cut the tube open, and pull the core out from inside the tube.
 
I asked at my bike shop what the advantage of presta was. They said all the high end bikes came with them, which isn’t really an answer. My opinion is there is some theoretical advantage to them but it’s a solution looking for a problem.
 
I just asked my wife if she wants to switch our Gazelle bikes from presta to schrader valves. While I didn't get a definitive answer, yet, I will bring it up again at some point in the future.
 
I found that Bell 27 x 1-1/8" tubes use a smaller rubber bottom ring around the Shrader valve, They fit easily inside my road rims,

Yes, I buy name brand double wall alloy rims when I build wheels. put in Sapim spokes that cost me fifty bucks, and still drill the rims out for Shraders.
 
I just asked my wife if she wants to switch our Gazelle bikes from presta to schrader valves. While I didn't get a definitive answer, yet, I will bring it up again at some point in the future.
Sclaverand in Gaxzelle? Isn't there a Hollands ventiel in there? Dunlop would be more expected at a PONbike Gazelle
 
I asked at my bike shop what the advantage of presta was. They said all the high end bikes came with them, which isn’t really an answer. My opinion is there is some theoretical advantage to them but it’s a solution looking for a problem.
The valve is skinnier so needs a smaller hole. Which theoretically compromises the strength of the rim less. This probably matters more (although I don't know how much it ever matters) on skinnier road bike tires.

The little locking nut on the valve core can keep the whole valve from inadvertently being stuck open and leaking. Or for that matter it makes it a lot less likely it will get stuck in a closed position.

The whole valve assembly is an "outie" and not an "innie" (like a Shrader valve) so there is less risk of grundist and debris getting into the valve and clogging it and rendering it non-functional.

You can go into any bike shop in the known universe and buy presta valve parts.

None of these are, in my opinion, particularly overwhelming advantages. Any component, especially a tiny and inexpensive component like a valve, is going to have tradeoffs in a bike and I think Presta valves work well enough that I'm not too inclined to geek out about alternatives.
 
I just asked my wife if she wants to switch our Gazelle bikes from presta to schrader valves. While I didn't get a definitive answer, yet, I will bring it up again at some point in the future.
This is the same tactic that I use when trying to convince the wife to try something new in the bedroom. Were we talking about valves? Oh, never mind.😃
 
Hey Guys
Do they make Schrader threaded valve stem FAT bike tubes,
26 x 3-4"? I hate fighting getting the locking pump head onto the valve stem, when using low pressure rides.
Tia,
 
Hey Guys
Do they make Schrader threaded valve stem FAT bike tubes,
26 x 3-4"? I hate fighting getting the locking pump head onto the valve stem, when using low pressure rides.
Tia,

Just a Google Search away:



 
Thanks Mr. Coffee
I have the Bakcou tubes in my FT bikes, and they are Schrader valves, but are NOT threaded the length of the stem...
I am looking for the full length Schrader threaded stems, with the lock nut, that way I won't have to fight getting the Quick lock air chuck locked onto the valve stem, when airing up from the low pressure use etc.
Thanks,
 
Do they make Schrader threaded valve stem FAT bike tubes

I've looked in to that before, and the only tubes that I could find with a threaded Schrader valve stems were for motorcycles.

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They do have them though,..
(Unless this is a tubeless tire? There's more options available for tubeless)

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More than 40 years ago I managed to thread a thin flat nut from a lampshade onto the rubber valve stem and it worked pretty good.
The valve would still wobble around a bit, but it didn't push right into the wheel.

I just tried a few nuts on a stem, and these two nuts threaded onto the same bolt, but the thinner nut was slightly more snug on the valve stem and seems like it might not slip off?

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Another option might be a small hose clamp, but it might be hard to remove without wrecking the tube/stem?

Or just a simple zip tie?
The valve will still wobble, but it won't push right into the wheel when the tire is flat.


They really should make a locknut designed to thread onto a rubber Schrader valve.
The rubber itself works like a lock nut with just sort of a pinch fit.


I just checked AliExpress and found black nylon flange nuts available in a range of sizes,..

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That would probably work pretty good?
If the nut is a bit too tight, you could easily shave it down to fit.

I remember a friend used hairspray to install new grips on his bike.
The hairspray works as a lube to get the grip on, then dries up and "glues" it into place. (You have to cut the grip off to remove it though).

Something like that might help to keep it in place?
 
Four years ago, it annoyed me that bicycle tires seeped so fast. I read online that sometimes a car tire will lose air with no evidence of leak, and the solution is to tighten the valve core to spec with a torque tool.

I've been checking my valves for leaks since I was a kid.
You just put a gob of spit on your finger and goop it into the valve.
Even a tiny leak is visible.

Soapy water doesn't work as good, and spit is always readily available. (unless I'm Really stoned. 😂)
The viscosity of spit is better suited for checking for leaks.

I actually had a puncture in a car tire fixed about ten years ago.
I went back the next day to show him the slow leak by rubbing spit on the tire. 😂
 
PC
I measured all 3 of my bikes and the Outside diameter of the rubber stem at the rim was .300", the closest MM measurement I can find is 7.60mm =.2992", but I can't find any mm nuts that fit, that close.
So, I may just have to use a Black zip tie, which I have a lot of...and it will easy to remove if needed in the field....LOL
Tia,
 
PC
I measured all 3 of my bikes and the Outside diameter of the rubber stem at the rim was .300", the closest MM measurement I can find is 7.60mm =.2992", but I can't find any mm nuts that fit, that close.

You're threading it on to unthreaded rubber stem though, so you want an undersized nut.
A nylon nut threading onto a rubber stem has lots of give to it, and you can easily file down or taper the threads on a nylon nut until it threads on snugly.
 
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