Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

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It has come!

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Wheeltop EDS OX2.0 (93 mm): a long cage electronic derailleur and a wireless shifter for flat handlebar bikes.

The weakest point is the magnetic charging port/plug. It is flimsy. Fortunately, the derailleur only requires charging once a month.
The app is nice but funny. It is written in Chinese and then auto-translated to English :D So, where you expect "Setup" it is "Debug" :)

My brother has no time to help me now. That will be a few day delay then.
 
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@Jeremy McCreary: I was thinking of you :) Please read on patiently!

After the derailleur/shifter ($400) are installed and proven, the derailleur cable has either to be removed or re-used. Removing the cable requires the motor-dropping (which is easy). It is because any internally routed cable on a Vado SL is fastened by a clamp in the motor area.

Let us say I wanted to install a lever/cable actuated dropper seat post. The mechanic keeps the shifter cable inside the frame, only removes the steel core (with a ball at one end, originally connected to the shifter). Then the mechanic also pulls the part of the cable housing out the drive-side chainstay (so the motor must be dropped all the time).

Next, the mechanic inserts the cable core the reverse way, so the core ball is at the seat-post side. Next, the mechanic installs the dropper seat-post. Part of the cable housing might be removed during the process. The cable core ball is attached to the dropper actuator.

Next, the mechanic installs the dropper lever on the bars, attaching the cable core and housing to the lever. Of course, everything has to be cut to the proper length. When everything is done and verified, the mechanic can re-fasten the e-bike motor.
------------
I was tempted with the idea of installing a proper dropper on my Fearless. I am not doing this though! Reasons:
  • I use my Redshift suspension seat-post for most rides
  • I only need a dropper during rallies
  • Installing a proper dropper makes the change permanent
  • I still own a handle actuated dropper post, as little practical as it is :)
Cheers!
 
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Thanks f
Stefan Mikes said:
@Jeremy McCreary: I was thinking of you :) Please read on patiently!

After the derailleur/shifter ($400) are installed and proven, the derailleur cable has either to be removed or re-used. Removing the cable requires the motor-dropping (which is easy). It is because any internally routed cable on a Vado SL is fastened by a clamp in the motor area.

Let us say I wanted to install a lever/cable actuated dropper seat post. The mechanic keeps the shifter cable inside the frame, only removes the steel core (with a ball at one end, originally connected to the shifter). Then the mechanic also pulls the part of the cable housing out the drive-side chainstay (so the motor must be dropped all the time).

Next, the mechanic inserts the cable core the reverse way, so the core ball is at the seat-post side. Next, the mechanic installs the dropper seat-post. Part of the cable housing might be removed during the process. The cable core ball is attached to the dropper actuator.

Next, the mechanic installs the dropper lever on the bars, attaching the cable core and housing to the lever. Of course, everything has to be cut to the proper length. When everything is done and verified, the mechanic can re-fasten the e-bike motor.
------------
I was tempted with the idea of installing a proper dropper on my Fearless. I am not doing this though! Reasons:
  • I use my Redshift suspension seat-post for most rides
  • I only need a dropper during rallys
  • Installing a proper dropper makes the change permanent
  • I still own a handle actuated dropper post, as little practical as it is :)
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Thanks for helping me understand the cable routing involved in putting a cable-actuated dropper on the SL 1. If I ever go to electronic shifting, I'll seize the opportunity.

Till then, I've given up on a dropper for my SL. The only lever-actuated dropper under consideration was the KS eTen. And my mechanic says the seat tube bottle bosses would block it from going deep enough to provide the full 100 mm of travel at the required extended seat height.

Since 100 mm is already marginal for my specific purpose (better footing at stops), I threw in the towel. But thanks to everyone who helped with the attempt!
 
Sometimes, a reasonable decision may hurt but it is as smart as deciding not to continue the dangerous trail but rather retrace your steps and getting back to the safety. It is something I have only learned to follow.

There is nothing more I could modify my Fearless with. Now, riding, riding and riding has remained :) I was pleasantly surprised by my Vado SL performance on the latest friendly gravel group rides. If I rode a big Vado, I had my assistance at 30/50%, and I was still too fast as for my mates! (It should be 25/50%). Now, my Vado SL could perform equally well at 50/100% assistance. The added benefit was Vado SL is lightweight and agile, so it was better for the rougher terrain than the heavy e-bike would be! It is still something in the back of my head telling me "Vado SL is a low power e-bike". Falsch! :) It is as good as the heavy e-bike or better if we are talking the same actual assistance!

My good friend PJ saw my Fearless for the first time on our Poligon ride. He liked the sporty look of my Vado SL and also he could assess its high performance.
-- 'Why didn't you take this e-bike to Sudovia Gravel race last year?'
-- 'It is all about the motor power, Paweł. The big Vado is twice as strong as the SL. Think of extreme climbs!'
-- 'Ah, got it!'
 
Lest anyone think that only dummies drop the SL 1's brilliantly designed loose seatpost wedge down the seat tube...

20260329_202301.jpg


Took my SL 1 to my favorite LBS for (a) a repeatedly sticking rear brake piston, and (b) a weird creaking noise suddenly coming from the saddle/seatpost. And look what happened when they pulled the seat tube!

This is a long-established authorized Specialized dealer, mind you, and I've always had good luck with their service. So not exactly dummies.

As for the rear brake
No defective (or damaged) parts found, so no basis for a warranty claim with Tektro. The mechanic's seen one other SL 1 with the same recurring rear brake problem (one piston sticking against the rotor).

He's thinking now that the magnetic rear wheel sensor has magnetized one of the steel pistons, causing metallic brake dust to cake on it and eventually block its retraction. Our many steep hills, my tendency to favor the rear brake, and my frequent riding on sandy hard pack probably aren't helping.

He's working up some options for a middle-tier brake upgrade without steel pistons. The SL 1's combo of flat bars and flat rear caliper mount limits the possibilities.
 
mogulman said:
Wait a sec...... Didn't you give me a hard time a few years ago when I put AXS on my SL? You didn't see the benefit? hmmmm... how things change? :)
Click to expand...
The electronic derailleur won't make me a better cyclist. My Vado SL has everything I need, and everything works perfectly. The three main reasons for which I decided to upgrade were:
  • I wanted to buy my Fearless anything new to burn some money :)
  • Unlike SRAM AXS or Shimano Di2, Wheeltop EDS works with any drivetrain
  • I wanted to compare the Chinese derailleur/shifter to the latest AXS; I like learning.
Starting from the last point: I and brother usually buy different systems. If he buys a Garmin, I buy a Wahoo. If he buys a SRAM, I'd buy something different. Now, an anecdote. For some reasons, I had to buy a Garmin Edge 540. That gave me understanding how Garmin worked and made me sure I disliked it. The 540 ended in the hands of Jacek. And... he still uses his old 530 ('The 540 is unreadable in direct sunlight!' - surprised?)

A Shimano or SRAM electronic derailleur only works with the respective system, and only for a given number of speeds. The current SRAM AXS "upgrade" (that is, which can be mounted on a derailleur hanger) is for 12-speed cassettes. I wouldn't upgrade my drivetrain to 12 speed one. I want my 11-speed, 11-51T cassette to be there. Wheeltop EDS OX works for anything from 3 to 14 speed, and each cassette sprocket can be adjusted individually. While you calibrate the AXS for the smallest cassette sprocket, and the system assumes the sprocket spacing is known. It does not always work the best. You cannot swap SRAM cassettes for Shimano (there is a minimal difference between the two systems regarding the sprocket spacing).

The third thing is the AXS of a few years ago is not the AXS of today. The Di2 has changed even more! (From a wired to a wireless system). The Wheeltop system I've bought is already the second version with added capability and fixed imperfections.

Still, the main reason I'm switching to the electronic drivetrain is I wanted to spend some money on my Fearless :)
 
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Jeremy, please make me sure: Did the bike mechanic charge for his own mistake, which was dropping the wedge into the seat tube?!

A weird, weird thing with that rear brake.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Jeremy, please make me sure: Did the bike mechanic charge for his own mistake, which was dropping the wedge into the seat tube?!

A weird, weird thing with that rear brake.
Click to expand...
I had my rear brake stick once 2 years ago in the middle of a ride. I ended up removing the rear pads so I could continue my ride. When I got home I cleaned things up, pushed the pistons back in and it hasn't happened since. It does worry me though.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Jeremy, please make me sure: Did the bike mechanic charge for his own mistake, which was dropping the wedge into the seat tube?!
Click to expand...
Not really. It's listed as work done, but he only charged 15 minutes total labor for the saddle/seatpost fix, which he told me also included some diagnostic time.

Besides, they've done enough favors for me that I wouldn't press it. Wondering if his assistant dropped the wedge, as it doesn't sound like something Adam would do.

Stefan Mikes said:
A weird, weird thing with that rear brake.
Click to expand...
Yes. Hoping the brake upgrade is affordable.
 
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Stefan Mikes said:
Jeremy, perhaps not that expensive as I thought?
It looks like the total replacement of your brake assemblies?
www.ebay.com

TEKTRO HD-R510 Flat Mount Hydraulic Disc Brake Set Dual Piston , For ROAD | eBay

Open System, Dual Piston. - Aluminum Lever & Cast Aluminum Bracket. - Two Pieces Hinged Bracket. - Color : Black (as pic. - Flat Mount. - Flat Mount Caliper. - High Heat Dispersion & Heat Tolerance. ).
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Thanks! Gives me hope that an affordable upgrade might be possible.
 
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