Beware Having REI Set Up Your Canyon - Potentially Dangerous Fail

Catalyzt

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
So, a few days ago, I'm doing my usual four-mile fitness loop, and I go over a crack in the sidewalk I literally have gone over two or three times a week since I bought the bike this spring. I hear a sharp click as I feel the bike seat tilt backwards a notch.

Then I kind of relax. No big deal. Everyone has had this happen at one point or another-- a little odd because it's CF, you tighten the bolts with a torque wrench, but hey, I guess they can work loose same as metal. I ride home a little carefully.

Today, I read up on the procedure for readjusting the seat angle on the VCLS, which I remember (from the manual, I never adjusted it after picking it up, because I thought it felt just right) was a little complicated-- it involves loosening four bolts, and you have to remove the seat post completely. First, I have to remove the reflector, which is secured via a clamp to the seat post. The GRIZL has always-on rear lights way brighter than any reflector, and my helmet has a rear reflector and integrated rear blinking light. It's redundant, happy to be rid of the 50 grams or whatever. Fine. But now that I can see the top of the seat tube, it seems like maybe the seat post is pretty low in the tube. But that can't be-- it would be such a rookie mistake, and a safety item as well. Even I know that, and I'm not particularly mechanically inclined. it's not something you just eyeball.

When I pull out the seat post, however, I see that REI had inserted it nearly an inch below the maximum insertion depth printed on the post, right to where the two halves join.

This, I think, is really serious given the split-leaf design of the VCLS: The two halves of the post are designed to flex and separate slightly. That separation, at least in theory, could crack the down tube if it's stuffed too far in. (I inspect the seat post carefully; it's not damaged. The creak was what I thought it was, just the sound of the seat tilting backwards, same as on any other bike.)

I torque all the bolts to their specs, which are all different numbers (my wrench only goes to 6, the bolt at the bottom of the post is supposed to be 7, but I only weigh 150 pounds, and this isn't the bolt that clamps the tube, so I'm not worried about it. I think two others were 4 and a third was 5.)

This all has a happy ending-- I took the bike for a ride, and there's no creaking or problem. What's more, the bike is MUCH easier to ride with the seat 5/6ths of an inch (or whatever) higher than it was; much better power delivery to the crank. The seat height previously had been more like a mountain bike, where I could put my feet firmly on the ground with my heels elevated only slightly, and now it feels similar to, but not quite as high, as my road bike, the old Competition, where the seat is so high I'm always on tip-toes when I stop. Everything is way better-- and the app is showing me 117 Average Watts for the ride, even though I wasn't working as hard as I was last time I hit 117, my highest reading since my medical catastrophe in July. The balance, the handling, everything feels more natural now-- though Large is still really large for the Grizl:ON, as many people have said, and if any part of me was any shorter (I'm 6 feet and change, depending on the day) I'd have needed a medium. And a medium would have been less stable for me cornering.

Oh, one other thing: I'm also getting more suspension from the seat post! It's a noticeably smoother ride.

Now I'm wondering: Did they even use a torque wrench when they put the bike together?! How could they not see the markings on the seat post?! It is NOT possible that the post slipped; I had always thought it looked a little low, I would have noticed if it had slipped, I always notice when that happens. And I'm kicking myself, because I knew that they delivered the bike without even bothering to adjust the derailleur tension properly. I did that myself and had it checked at an LBS.

I'm wondering if there's anything else I should check. Yeah, this is on REI, and I would not trust REI (at least in Burbank) for any work moving forward, but it's also on me. I should have checked these four bolts, and the seat height (most importantly) when I saw the derailleur tension was so far out of spec. I'm just glad I haven't done any significant drops on the bike, and that my butt is off the seat most of the time I hit little ones.
 
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I'm glad you sorted out both the noise and the proper installation point of that unique seatpost. I hope they used carbon paste.

IMO the most important torques on a bike for safety:

Saddle to seatpost
Stem cap to bars
Pedals to crank
Quick release or through axle to frame

Everything else is important, but when they loosen up, they'll give you a warning. A clunk, squeak, rattle, or feeling off. The ones above can loosen quickly and put you in immediate danger.
 
This is why people should know "how to" with most of what they buy.
I've never opted to have anything assembled for me. Whether it a bicycle, BBQ grill to furniture... etc.
But I'm old school where knowing how something works and how to use tools was considered an asset.
ymmv
 
I would not trust REI
It is a coincidence that every REI bike I have encountered has had overly tight zip ties on the cables. In time they create lag in the cable motion, as with shifting. It everything else looks right but there is lag, that is the likely culprit. They are meant to secure the cable to the frame, not strangle it to death. it is like the bodybuilder assembly person put pliers on it and pulled as hard as they could. Check to see if you can wiggle the housing through the zip ties. If not cut them and start fresh.
 
Worth noting this isn't an REI problem as the title suggests, but the impact of a single careless mechanic who could be employed at any shop.

Perhaps. My criticism said 'beware' not 'do not have REI set up your bike. It's also fair to note that this was REI Burbank-- I'm not sure other stores would have the same issue. I really, really wanted to like their work, as I love the concept of the store, the fact that they lead tours, etc. They seem like great corporate citizens. But at another local shop-- Safety Cycle, for example, between East Hollywood and Koreatown-- someone would have checked the mechanic's work.

My comment was also limited to having them assemble one particular brand of bike. They may be great for many other things. I also posted here, not on their forum, where I gave them a great review initially because they communicated well with me when Canyon didn't. I think the right thing to do is to call them and tell them what happened. I may remove my previous good review, but I won't slam them online. Times are too hard-- and I caught the error, nothing happened.

And note that in my post, I do take responsibility for not double checking all their work. That's totally on me.

But nothing like this has ever happened at any bike shop I've ever been to. Not even close.
This is why people should know "how to" with most of what they buy.
I've never opted to have anything assembled for me. Whether it a bicycle, BBQ grill to furniture... etc.
But I'm old school where knowing how something works and how to use tools was considered an asset.
ymmv

I'm not there yet, GR. I'm learning a lot, I'm doing a lot more with tools than I EVER did before I found this forum, and I'm super grateful to everyone here who has helped me. I also have really bad osteoarthritis, which is frustrating, because as I get older, I'm finding doing some (very) light wrenching to be relaxing. Sucks when it hurts my hands!

I'm glad you sorted out both the noise and the proper installation point of that unique seatpost. I hope they used carbon paste.

IMO the most important torques on a bike for safety:

Saddle to seatpost
Stem cap to bars
Pedals to crank
Quick release or through axle to frame

Everything else is important, but when they loosen up, they'll give you a warning. A clunk, squeak, rattle, or feeling off. The ones above can loosen quickly and put you in immediate danger.

I will check those. I guess for bolts, I should back them out and retighten to spec?

Is carbon paste really obvious? I did ask if they'd used it; they said of course they had. How would I tell?

Thanks!
 
And note that in my post, I do take responsibility for not double checking all their work. That's totally on me.
You've got nothing to apologize for – any shop should present a properly assembled and safe bike to their customer.

I also don't think it's realistic to expect a mechanic's work to be double checked. Bike mechanics earn their keep. Plus, by who? An owner or manager? Sales staff? Hopefully this was just a one-off honest mistake. You didn't mention it in your post, but did you bring this to their attention?
 
I will check those. I guess for bolts, I should back them out and retighten to spec?

Is carbon paste really obvious? I did ask if they'd used it; they said of course they had. How would I tell?

Thanks!
Yes, Loosen, adjust, snug, then torque.

Carbon paste should be used anywhere metal touches carbon, although I don't use it on stem expander plugs. The easiest place to check is the seatpost. Mark the height on the seatpost with tape or a marker. Loosen it and lift it up an inch. There should be a sandy grease on the surface. If not, then they didn't use it. You can get it at any shop. You only need a thin film.

I'm not going to disparage Canyon or REI, I just want to point out the business relationship between the two companies. Canyon sells DTC, direct to consumer. They do not have a dealer network at all. They contract REI for service. Were all of their mechanics trained by Canyon? How is warranty handled? If the two parties disagree on a customer issue, who resolves it? This situation is not specific to Canyon/REI, but to any company without a dealer network. Everything can work out fine, until it doesn't.
 
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You take a custom builder like PedalUma. He takes new or good condition used bikes and converts them to e-bikes. If he builds a bike for you, and your bike has a frame failure, is he going to send you to Felt or whoever made the frame for warranty? No way. He's going to stand behind it, because he owns the company. He's the manufacturer, dealer, and servicer. He will either get the frame warrantied for you, or find another one and replace it. It's a tight relationship from sale to service. DTC works best when the manufacturer has a dealer network on top of direct, and pays for warranty service at their dealers.
 
No worries... It's getting harder for me to work on things as well. Carpal Tunnel, Arthritis and Trigger Finger are humbling me more every day.
I just hear too many of these stories and at the end of the day none of this is rocket science.
My DTC Zen bike came with so many assembly errors I practically had to rebuild the bike or at the very least double check everything. I too find it relaxing... and rewarding as well to wrench it... but when it's fresh out of the hands of a so called mechanic, you shouldn't have to before riding.
Well glad you found the issue before any harm. And you may want to double check the bike as the same skillset was involved with it in its entirety.
 
I also don't think it's realistic to expect a mechanic's work to be double checked. Bike mechanics earn their keep. Plus, by who? An owner or manager?
Good point. Safety Cycle is probably unique in this respect. I think the manager is looking over everyone's shoulder. (And they do charge a bit more.)
Hopefully this was just a one-off honest mistake. You didn't mention it in your post, but did you bring this to their attention?
Not yet, but I think I'll give the shop a firm but friendly call.
 
I didn't miss anything. I've never worked with this kind of split seatpost, so I didn't comment on that claim. I can see, though, that if this kind of seatpost was inserted TOO FAR into the seat tube, the suspension could be bound or defeated, causing a catastrophic failure (i.e. rip your nuts off). It may very well have minimum and maximum insertion lines.
 
OK. Perhaps this post had two markings: the minimum and maximum insertion depth? If so then I owe Cat an apology!
@Catalyzt: Could you take a photo with the minimum and maximum insertion depth markers?
 
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