What brake pads do I buy???

[Gionnirocket]

being Dutch We use the Orange versions for the greasy jobs
View attachment 195759

My doctor uses those. He sometimes uses 2 fingers so I can have a second opinion.
He's good like that.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. I don’t think I lost anything when I removed the bolts and disconnected the calipers. And, I’m pretty sure I reassembled them the same way they came off. I’ve learned to be very careful during disassembly not to lose stuff!

I've learned to thread all the nuts and bolts back where they came from as soon as I remove them. (Whenever it's possible.)

I'll have to unscrew/unbolt them again when I install the new parts, but I know Exactly where they go, and the orientation.

Even washers have an upside and downside to them.

 

[PedalUma]

I was eating my lunch with two female associates and somehow the topic of rubber gloves came up. I said that I can't because I need to feel what I am doing. They laughed for ten minutes.

 

[PCeBiker]

I was eating my lunch with two female associates and somehow the topic of rubber gloves came up. I said that I can't because I need to feel what I am doing. They laughed for ten minutes.

I've always hated wearing gloves when I'm working on stuff.
I need to feel what I'm doing as well.

It's too easy to drop something with gloves on if you can't feel what's in your hand.

I always wear gloves while riding though.
I managed to find gloves that fit well and my hands are still nimble enough to have two or three fingers on the brake levers.

 

[PedalUma]

I've always hated wearing gloves when I'm working on stuff.
I need to feel what I'm doing as well.

It's too easy to drop something with gloves on if you can't feel what's in your hand.

I always wear gloves while riding though.
I managed to find gloves that fit well and my hands are still nimble enough to have two or three fingers on the brake levers.

I have high viz gloves that breathe and have palm padding. But that is not working on something.

 

[stompandgo]

Some of the bikes we work on are so disgustingly grimy, I have to wear gloves. I use the solvent outside. As soon as it's clean enough, I take them off. I hate that sweaty mess under the gloves. Yuk.

 

[Chazmo]

Well, I tried transplanting the disk pads from the other bike, and yeah they had more material on them, but adjust as I might I cannot get the front to grab properly and the squealing has been driving me batty.

Anyway, I ordered new B01S-compatible pads — a set of resin and a set of semi-metallic. I’m sure I can get this to work properly and quietly, but not with the older pads it seems.

 

[stompandgo]

Squealing can be caused by a number of things, but one thing that's easy to eliminate is misalignment. This is how I fix it.

1. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts.
2. Squeeze the lever handle and hold it steady.
3. Snug the mounting bolts.
4. Check for alignment issues.
5. If needed, loosen the mounting bolts a bit and tap the caliper in the direction where the gap should be closed using a plastic hammer. Snug up again.
6. Check for alignment, drag, and squeal.
7. If not good, repeat. If good, torque to spec.

 

[Chazmo]

Agreed. That’s kind of exactly what I’ve been doing, Chris. And, I’ve used the “see light through both side gaps” frequently to make sure the pads are closing evenly.

I’m not an expert at this process, and maybe I’m not doing it right, but I’ve tried to adjust all those things several times with previous and current pads and I’m not getting what I want. I think the “problem” is the material of the existing (quite worn) pads. Or at least I think a different material may help.

Does anyone know if folks manufacture pads with a different material past a certain wear point? In other words, does anyone know of a pad that is supposed to squeal and be troublesome once it wears to a certain point. Sounds kind of silly, but I was wondering if maybe that’s what’s going on.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Agreed. That’s kind of exactly what I’ve been doing, Chris. And, I’ve used the “see light through both side gaps” frequently to make sure the pads are closing evenly.

I’m not an expert at this process, and maybe I’m not doing it right, but I’ve tried to adjust all those things several times with previous and current pads and I’m not getting what I want. I think the “problem” is the material of the existing (quite worn) pads. Or at least I think a different material may help.

Does anyone know if folks manufacture pads with a different material past a certain wear point? In other words, does anyone know of a pad that is supposed to squeal and be troublesome once it wears to a certain point. Sounds kind of silly, but I was wondering if maybe that’s what’s going on.

I don't think that's a feature like that of automobile pads.

Have you tried wet sanding the pads with a flat block and then cleaning them and the rotors with isopropyl?
Are your rotors worn/grooved?

 

[CanNik]

My bike uses the same type of pads. I use these.

https://a.co/d/10xVUzp

I dunno, they were cheap. They stop the bike just fine and aren’t noisy.

I don’t ride a lot. Just 8 miles a day to commute

Great reply

Who cares

If they stop the bike well, and you aren't a competitor in a high pressure event what is the point, but what works

 

[Chazmo]

I don't think that's a feature like that of automobile pads.

Have you tried wet sanding the pads with a flat block and then cleaning them and the rotors with isopropyl?
Are your rotors worn/grooved?

I did clean the pads with alcohol before I installed them recently, but I’ll do everything and I’ll check the rotors when I get the new pads, Gionni. Thanks for the thoughts!

 

[PCeBiker]

Ive been trying to figure out what's wrong with my front brake.
I couldn't get the rotor to center in the caliper. The pads weren't wearing evenly, and my brake lever was feeling spongy.

I've got a stuck piston (two piston caliper), and the rotor was bending sideways until it contacted the brake pad on the stuck piston.

Time to service my caliper.
Ive got a new rotor and pads to put on as well.

I found a video,..

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I had that happen when I was changing a flat. I didn’t put a chalk into the caliper to keep the pads separate and they closed. The only way, I thought, to fix it was to open the reservoir, at the brake lever, to relieve pressure. Then I could insert the chalk to push the postings outward. Then, finally, I could close the reservoir and remount the wheel.

That’s a good channel, by the way.

 

[PCeBiker]

I dunno, they were cheap. They stop the bike just fine and aren’t noisy.

Great reply

Who cares

If they stop the bike well, and you aren't a competitor in a high pressure event what is the point, but what works

I’ve know about my sticky brake for months, and I bought the new pads and rotor last winter.

But my bike stops just fine, so I just kept ignoring the problem.

I hope my caliper service doesn't end up with me unintentionally flushing my fluid.

I don't have the brake piston tool, so a blown out piston is a possibility

 

[Chazmo]

@PCeBiker could you remove the post above or at least get rid of the pictures of rusty car parts? That kind of noise devalues the thread, IMO.

 

[Gionnirocket]

@PCeBiker could you remove the post above or at least get rid of the pictures of rusty car parts? That kind of noise devalues the thread, IMO.

@PCeBiker ....but he was OK with my post about my doctor using 2 fingers

 

[Gionnirocket]

I’ve know about my sticky brake for months, and I bought the new pads and rotor last winter.

But my bike stops just fine, so I just kept ignoring the problem.

I hope my caliper service doesn't end up with me unintentionally flushing my fluid.

I don't have the brake piston tool, so a blown out piston is a possibility

I had to do this when I rode the path under construction. There was a fine stone dust everywhere and it stuck like cement and fouled my rear caliper.

 

[PCeBiker]

I had to do this when I rode the path under construction. There was a fine stone dust everywhere and it stuck like cement and fouled my rear caliper.

Yeah, I know about dust,..

Sorry about posting the dirty pictures.
I don't intent to offend anyone.

 

[stompandgo]

Agreed. That’s kind of exactly what I’ve been doing, Chris. And, I’ve used the “see light through both side gaps” frequently to make sure the pads are closing evenly.

I’m not an expert at this process, and maybe I’m not doing it right, but I’ve tried to adjust all those things several times with previous and current pads and I’m not getting what I want. I think the “problem” is the material of the existing (quite worn) pads. Or at least I think a different material may help.

Does anyone know if folks manufacture pads with a different material past a certain wear point? In other words, does anyone know of a pad that is supposed to squeal and be troublesome once it wears to a certain point. Sounds kind of silly, but I was wondering if maybe that’s what’s going on.

Not that I know of. Sanding and cleaning your existing pads may help for a bit, but if they're almost shot, then just replace them. If after replacing, you can't get the pads to stop from dragging on the rotor, your caliper needs service. Taking it off the mount and cleaning it might help, but it may need an overhaul. Also look at the rotor runout. It may need truing.